Adalimumab in Lichen Planus: A Narrative Review of Treatment and Paradoxical Reactions

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Adalimumab in Lichen Planus: A Narrative Review of Treatment and Paradoxical Reactions

Lichen planus (LP) is a chronic inflammatory condition affecting the skin (cutaneous LP), mucous membranes (oral, ocular, or vulvar LP), hair (lichen planopilaris [LPP]), and nails that predominantly occurs in middle-aged adults. Although the true etiology remains unknown, the pathogenesis of LP is thought to involve multiple factors. Several human leukocyte antigen (HLA) alleles have been associated with LP and its variants, including HLA-B27, HLA-B51, HLA-DR1 (cutaneous and oral LP), HLA-DRB1*11, and HLA-DQB1*03 (LPP). Additionally, HLA-Bw57 has been reported to be associated with oral LP in a cohort of British patients.1 In addition to HLA alleles, genetic polymorphisms in cytokines including IL-4, IL-6, IL-18, interferon (IFN) γ, and tumor necrosis factor (TNF) α and its receptor have been found to be associated with LP.2 Beyond genetics, chronic viral infection has been implicated in the development of LP. Systemic infection with the hepatitis C virus has been linked to the development of oral LP by promoting the recruitment of hepatitis C virus–specific CD8+ T cells from peripheral blood to the oral lesions, where they exhibit a terminally differentiated effector status.3 Another report found an association between human herpesvirus 7 (HHV-7) and cutaneous LP; in this study, HHV-7 RNA was detected in plasmacytoid dendritic cells but not T cells and diminished after treatment, providing evidence for dendritic cells being involved in the HHV-7–mediated pathogenesis of cutaneous LP.4 These findings were further corroborated by another study of oral LP patients that found enhanced infiltration of plasmacytoid and myeloid dendritic cells and upregulation in toll-like receptor and IFN-γ signaling.4

In addition to immune cell dysregulation, LP and its variants have been linked to neurogenic inflammation. In oral LP lesions, neurokinin 1 receptor and substance P were highly expressed and demonstrated a positive correlation with the expression of apoptotic marker caspase-3 and proliferation marker Ki-67.5 These results suggest that neuropeptides may be involved in cell proliferation and turnover in oral LP. Similarly, in patients with LPP, substance P was more abundant in affected areas, whereas another neuropeptide, calcitonin gene-related peptide, was more highly expressed in unaffected areas,6 further supporting the pathogenic role of neurogenic inflammation in LP.

A mucosal variant that often goes undiagnosed is vulvar LP. Although no distinct pathologic mechanism for vulvar LP has been established, prior reports found an association with autoantibodies.7,8 In patients with erosive vulvar LP, epidermal-binding basement membrane zone antibodies were detected in epidermal skin biopsies and in circulation with reactivity to bullous pemphigoid antigens 180 (9/11 [81.8%] patients) and 230 (2/11 [18.2%] patients).7 A similar study in patients with vulvar lichen sclerosus found similar proportions of circulating antibodies reactive to bullous pemphigoid antigens 180 (6/7 [85.7%] patients) and 230 (1/7 [14.3%] patients).8 Erosive vulvar LP has been shown to be associated with autoimmune disease (eg, alopecia areata, celiac disease and pernicious anemia),9 which suggests that the previously reported autoreactive antibodies7,8 are secondary to autoimmunity rather than primary drivers of vulvar LP pathogenesis.

Certain medications also have been reported to cause cutaneous lichenoid drug eruptions. Although they can clinically and histologically mimic classic LP, lichenoid drug eruptions are a distinct entity. Common inciting medications include thiazide diuretics, angiotensin-converting enzyme inhibitors, anti-inflammatory drugs, antimalarials, checkpoint inhibitors, antimicrobials, antihypertensives, antidiabetics, and psychiatric drugs. The exact pathologic mechanism of lichenoid drug eruptions currently is unclear but is thought to involve the binding of drug molecules to the cell-surface proteins of the epidermis, creating an antigenic hapten stimulus for CD8+T cells and triggering apoptosis of keratinocytes.1

The clinical severity of LP can range from mild localized disease to widespread and debilitating involvement. Multiple treatment modalities have been developed for management of LP, including topical and intralesional corticosteroids, phototherapy, Janus kinase inhibitors, phosphodiesterase-4 inhibitors, and anti–TNF-α inhibitors. Herein, we provide a narrative review and summary of the use of the TNF-α inhibitor adalimumab as a potential effective treatment for patients with LP.

Methods

We conducted a PubMed search of articles indexed for MEDLINE from 2005 to 2025 using the terms adalimumab AND lichen planus or adalimumab AND lichen. Articles that reported cases of oral LP, cutaneous LP, LPP, or lichenoid eruptions and adalimumab therapy were included in our review. Articles that used non-adalimumab TNF-α inhibitors were excluded. Using the search terms, 2 independent reviewers (M.G. and N.E.) conducted the literature review then screened the articles based on the inclusion and exclusion criteria. Our literature search yielded 40 articles, of which 20 met the criteria for inclusion in our narrative review.

Results

Our literature search yielded 11 patients with LP who were treated with adalimumab across studies (Table 1).10-16 Prior LP treatments included topical corticosteroids (11/11 [100%]), disease-modifying antirheumatic drugs (6/11 [54.5%]), retinoids (4/11 [36.4%]), and psoralen plus UVA (1/11 [36.4%]). Adalimumab was administered subcutaneously following 4 treatment regimens: (1) 160 mg in week 1, then 80 mg in week 2, then 40 mg weekly for a median duration of 36 weeks (6/11 [54.5%]); (2) 80 mg in week 1, then 40 mg in week 2, 40 mg every 2 weeks for 20 weeks (1/11 [9.1%]); (3) 80 mg in week 1, then 40 mg every 2 weeks for a median duration of 12 weeks (2/11 [18.2%]); and (4) 40 mg every 2 weeks (2/11 [18.2%]). Adalimumab generally was well tolerated, with only 1 (9.1%) patient experiencing minor stress-related mucocutaneous flares on the tongue and extremities that resolved spontaneously.12 Remission was achieved in 5 (45.5%) patients, with time to remission ranging from 2 to 4 months after adalimumab therapy, with a median of 2.5 months. In 1 (9.1%) patient with bullous LP, adalimumab therapy led to remission after 10 weeks. In both cases of oral and cutaneous LP (2/11 [18.2%]), remission was achieved after 2 months of treatment. Of the 2 LPP patients reported, 1 had hair regrowth after 9 months, and the other experienced remission after 3 months of adalimumab therapy. In the 1 (9.1%) case of annular LP, adalimumab treatment led to remission after 4 months. Five (45.5%) patients with vulvar LP treated with adalimumab for at least 9 months demonstrated improved Vulvar Quality of Life Index scores without improvement in their mucosal LP lesions. In 4 of the 5 (80.0%) patients who experienced remission after adalimumab treatment, remission lasted at least 6 to 10 months, with a median of 6 months; remission duration was not reported in 1 (20.0%) patient.

CT117003012_e-Table-1

Paradoxically, our review of the literature yielded 12 patients in whom adalimumab was associated with lichenoid-type eruptions across 9 studies (Table 2).17-29 The conditions for which these patients were undergoing treatment with adalimumab included ulcerative colitis,17 psoriasis,18,19 Crohn disease,20,26 rheumatoid arthritis,21-23,26 oligoarthritis,24 and ankylosing spondylitis.25 Lichenoid drug eruptions occurred on the legs (5/12 [41.7%]), arms (3/12 [25%]), oral mucosa (2/12 [16.7%]), and forehead or scalp (2/12 [16.7%]). Onset of time to these lichenoid eruptions ranged from 2 weeks to 17 months, with a median of 4 months. Adalimumab was discontinued in 9 (75.0%) patients and was continued in 3 (25.0%). One patient who had an onset of their lichenoid eruption after 17 months of treatment with adalimumab continued to receive adalimumab therapy with the addition of topical corticosteroids, which led to resolution of their oral lesions and partial remission of their cutaneous lesions. In 1 (8.3%) patient with localized buccal lichenoid eruptions, discontinuation of adalimumab on its own was sufficient to completely clear the lesions. Seven patients (7/12 [58.3%]) received topical corticosteroids with minimal (2/12 [16.7%]) or moderate (4/12 [33.3%]) improvement, and 1 (8.3%) patient did not have reported outcomes data. Eosinophils were detected within the adalimumab-associated lichenoid eruptions in 3 (25.0%) patients.17,20,22

CT117003012_e-Table-2

In addition to its association with lichenoid drug eruptions, adalimumab also was reported to induce LPP in a patient who was being treated for Behçet disease,29 oral LP in a patient being treated for Crohn disease,27 and cutaneous LP in a patient being treated for Crohn disease (Table 2).28 Time to onset ranged from 4 to 10 months, with a median of 6 months. Adalimumab was discontinued in 2 of 3 (66.7%) patients and was continued in the other patient (33.3%). After cessation of adalimumab therapy, administration of topical steroids led to complete resolution in the case of associated oral LP. In contrast, in adalimumab-induced cutaneous LP, initial topical corticosteroid treatment led to progression of lesions, which mostly resolved after adalimumab cessation. In 1 patient with LPP in whom adalimumab therapy could not be discontinued, topical corticosteroid and methotrexate therapy reduced the perifollicular erythema and stabilized the alopecia without full remission.

Comment

Conventional treatment modalities for LP often include topical corticosteroids as first-line therapy, with systemic corticosteroids, phototherapy, retinoids, or immunosuppressants (eg, cyclosporine or methotrexate) reserved for more severe or widespread disease. Historically, these approaches primarily have aimed to control symptoms rather than achieve long-term resolution; however, novel therapies including biologics and targeted immunomodulators show potential to induce sustained remission and improve quality of life for patients with refractory or mucosal LP.

In all reports where adalimumab was used to treat LP, patients initially received topical corticosteroids. While corticosteroids and other immunosuppressive agents are standard therapies, they often provide only temporary relief and may have an unfavorable side effect profile. Our review highlights the emerging role of adalimumab, a TNF-α inhibitor, in off-label management of LP subtypes, including cutaneous, mucosal, and vulvar LP and LPP. In several small case series and reports, patients treated with adalimumab experienced clinical improvement, including symptom resolution and quality-of-life enhancement, as well as complete remission, indicating a durable response.

The potential benefit of adalimumab in treating LP must be balanced with its paradoxical risk for inducing lichenoid eruptions as well as LP and its variants, as identified in our narrative review that included reports of patients receiving this biologic for other indications.17-29 Since adalimumab is a fully humanized antibody, the development of neutralizing antibodies may not account for drug-induced LP and lichenoid eruptions. Given that it blocks TNF-α, adalimumab may induce these lesions through a cytokine imbalance. This is supported by data demonstrating enhanced type I IFN-related proteins in plaques of patients with psoriasiform lesions treated with TNF-α inhibitors.26 These drug-induced eruptions often resolved or improved with topical corticosteroids after discontinuation, but their occurrence underscores the complexity of therapeutically targeting TNF-α in the management of LP. Our literature review suggests that adalimumab may offer therapeutic benefit in select cases of LP refractory to conventional therapy, especially when systemic control is required. Nonetheless, the risk for LP and lichenoid reactions necessitates cautious use and further investigation.

Conclusion

While the current evidence is limited to case reports and series, adalimumab shows promise as an effective and tolerable off-label treatment for LP, particularly in patients who are unresponsive to conventional immunosuppressive therapies. Remission or clinically significant improvement was achieved in several cases; however, the potential for adalimumab to induce LP and lichenoid eruptions underscores the need for careful patient selection and monitoring. Further prospective studies and larger cohorts are warranted to better define the safety and efficacy of adalimumab in treating LP lesions.

References
  1. Boch K, Langan EA, Kridin K, et al. Lichen planus. Front Med (Lausanne). 2021;8:737813.
  2. Gorouhi F, Davari P, Fazel N. Cutaneous and mucosal lichen planus: a comprehensive review of clinical subtypes, risk factors, diagnosis, and prognosis. ScientificWorldJournal. 2014;2014:742826.
  3. Pilli M, Penna A, Zerbini A, et al. Oral lichen planus pathogenesis: a role for the HCV-specific cellular immune response. Hepatology. 2002;36:1446-1452.
  4. Wang Y, Shang S, Sun Q, et al. Increased infiltration of CD11 c+/CD123+ dendritic cell subsets and upregulation of TLR/IFN-α signaling participate in pathogenesis of oral lichen planus. Oral Surg Oral Med Oral Pathol Oral Radiol. 2018;125:459-467.E2.
  5. González Moles M, Esteban F, Ruiz-Ávila I, et al. A role for the substance P/NK-1 receptor complex in cell proliferation and apoptosis in oral lichen planus. Oral Dis. 2009;15:162-169.
  6. Doche I, Wilcox GL, Ericson M, et al. Evidence for neurogenic inflammation in lichen planopilaris and frontal fibrosing alopecia pathogenic mechanism. Exp Dermatol. 2020;29:282-285.
  7. Cooper SM, Dean D, Allen J, et al. Erosive lichen planus of the vulva: weak circulating basement membrane zone antibodies are present. Clin Exp Dermatol. 2005;30:551-556.
  8. Howard A, Dean D, Cooper S, et al. Circulating basement membrane zone antibodies are found in lichen sclerosus of the vulva. Australas J Dermatol. 2004;45:12-15.
  9. Cooper SM, Ali I, Baldo M, et al. The association of lichen sclerosus and erosive lichen planus of the vulva with autoimmune disease: a case-control study. Arch Dermatol. 2008;144:1432-1435.
  10. Alam MS, LaBelle B. Treatment of lichen planopilaris with adalimumab in a patient with hidradenitis suppurativa and rheumatoid arthritis. JAAD Case Rep. 2020;6:219-221.
  11. Alhubayshi BS, Alnoshan AA, Alhumidi AA, et al. Bullous lichen planus treated with adalimumab: a case report. Case Rep Dermatol. 2025;17:42-47.
  12. Chao TJ. Adalimumab in the management of cutaneous and oral lichen planus. Cutis. 2009;84:325-328.
  13. Courtney A, Adamson SR, Veysey E. Adalimumab use in severe recalcitrant vulval lichen sclerosus and vulval lichen planus. J Low Genit Tract Dis. 2025;29:190-194.
  14. Holló P, Szakonyi J, Kiss D, et al. Successful treatment of lichen planus with adalimumab. Acta Derm Venereol. 2012;92:385-386.
  15. Khodeir J, Ohanian P, Ohanian M. Successful treatment of annular atrophic lichen planus with adalimumab. Clin Case Rep. 2025;13:E70036.
  16. Kreutzer K, Effendy I. Therapy-resistant folliculitis decalvans and lichen planopilaris successfully treated with adalimumab. J Dtsch Dermatol Ges. 2014;12:74-76.
  17. Alkheraiji A, Alotaibi H, Irfan Thalib H. Lichenoid drug eruption secondary to adalimumab: a case report. Cureus. 2024;16:E64013.
  18. Asarch A, Gottlieb AB, Lee J, et al. Lichen planus-like eruptions: an emerging side effect of tumor necrosis factor-alpha antagonists. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2009;61:104-111.
  19. De Simone C, Caldarola G, D’Agostino M, et al. Lichenoid reaction induced by adalimumab. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2008;22:626-627.
  20. El Habr C, Meguerian Z, Sammour R. Adalimumab-induced lichenoid drug eruption. J Med Liban. 2014;62:238-240.
  21. Exarchou SA, Voulgari PV, Markatseli TE, et al. Immune-mediated skin lesions in patients treated with anti-tumour necrosis factor alpha inhibitors. Scand J Rheumatol. 2009;38:328-331.
  22. Flendrie M, Vissers WH, Creemers MC, et al. Dermatological conditions during TNF-α-blocking therapy in patients with rheumatoid arthritis: a prospective study. Arthritis Res Ther. 2005;7:R666-R676.
  23. Inoue A, Sawada Y, Yamaguchi T, et al. Lichenoid drug eruption caused by adalimumab: a case report and literature review. Eur J Dermatol. 2017;27:69-70.
  24. Jayasekera PSA, Walsh ML, Hurrell D, et al. Case report of lichen planopilaris occurring in a pediatric patient receiving a tumor necrosis factor α inhibitor and a review of the literature. Pediatr Dermatol. 2016;33:E143-E146.
  25. Oliveira SCD, Vasconcelos AHC, Magalhães EPB, et al. Clinical, histopathological and outcome analysis of five patients with lichenoid eruption following anti-tumor necrosis factor-alpha therapy for ankylosing spondylitis: report of one case and review of the literature. Cureus. 2020;12:E10598.
  26. Seneschal J, Milpied B, Vergier B, et al. Cytokine imbalance with increased production of interferon-alpha in psoriasiform eruptions associated with antitumour necrosis factor-alpha treatments. Br J Dermatol. 2009;161:1081-1088.
  27. Andrade P, Lopes S, Albuquerque A, et al. Oral lichen planus in IBD patients: a paradoxical adverse effect of anti-TNF-α therapy. Dig Dis Sci. 2015;60:2746-2749.
  28. Au S, Hernandez C. Paradoxical induction of psoriasis and lichen planus by tumor necrosis factor-α inhibitors. Skinmed. 2015;13:403-405.
  29. McCarty M, Basile A, Bair B, et al. Lichenoid reactions in association with tumor necrosis factor alpha inhibitors. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2015;8:45-49.
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Correspondence: Mark Gregory, MS, Wayne State University School of Medicine, 540 E Canfield Ave, Detroit, MI 48201 ([email protected]).

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Cutis. 2026 March;117(3):E12-E16. doi:10.12788/cutis.1356

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Cutis. 2026 March;117(3):E12-E16. doi:10.12788/cutis.1356

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Lichen planus (LP) is a chronic inflammatory condition affecting the skin (cutaneous LP), mucous membranes (oral, ocular, or vulvar LP), hair (lichen planopilaris [LPP]), and nails that predominantly occurs in middle-aged adults. Although the true etiology remains unknown, the pathogenesis of LP is thought to involve multiple factors. Several human leukocyte antigen (HLA) alleles have been associated with LP and its variants, including HLA-B27, HLA-B51, HLA-DR1 (cutaneous and oral LP), HLA-DRB1*11, and HLA-DQB1*03 (LPP). Additionally, HLA-Bw57 has been reported to be associated with oral LP in a cohort of British patients.1 In addition to HLA alleles, genetic polymorphisms in cytokines including IL-4, IL-6, IL-18, interferon (IFN) γ, and tumor necrosis factor (TNF) α and its receptor have been found to be associated with LP.2 Beyond genetics, chronic viral infection has been implicated in the development of LP. Systemic infection with the hepatitis C virus has been linked to the development of oral LP by promoting the recruitment of hepatitis C virus–specific CD8+ T cells from peripheral blood to the oral lesions, where they exhibit a terminally differentiated effector status.3 Another report found an association between human herpesvirus 7 (HHV-7) and cutaneous LP; in this study, HHV-7 RNA was detected in plasmacytoid dendritic cells but not T cells and diminished after treatment, providing evidence for dendritic cells being involved in the HHV-7–mediated pathogenesis of cutaneous LP.4 These findings were further corroborated by another study of oral LP patients that found enhanced infiltration of plasmacytoid and myeloid dendritic cells and upregulation in toll-like receptor and IFN-γ signaling.4

In addition to immune cell dysregulation, LP and its variants have been linked to neurogenic inflammation. In oral LP lesions, neurokinin 1 receptor and substance P were highly expressed and demonstrated a positive correlation with the expression of apoptotic marker caspase-3 and proliferation marker Ki-67.5 These results suggest that neuropeptides may be involved in cell proliferation and turnover in oral LP. Similarly, in patients with LPP, substance P was more abundant in affected areas, whereas another neuropeptide, calcitonin gene-related peptide, was more highly expressed in unaffected areas,6 further supporting the pathogenic role of neurogenic inflammation in LP.

A mucosal variant that often goes undiagnosed is vulvar LP. Although no distinct pathologic mechanism for vulvar LP has been established, prior reports found an association with autoantibodies.7,8 In patients with erosive vulvar LP, epidermal-binding basement membrane zone antibodies were detected in epidermal skin biopsies and in circulation with reactivity to bullous pemphigoid antigens 180 (9/11 [81.8%] patients) and 230 (2/11 [18.2%] patients).7 A similar study in patients with vulvar lichen sclerosus found similar proportions of circulating antibodies reactive to bullous pemphigoid antigens 180 (6/7 [85.7%] patients) and 230 (1/7 [14.3%] patients).8 Erosive vulvar LP has been shown to be associated with autoimmune disease (eg, alopecia areata, celiac disease and pernicious anemia),9 which suggests that the previously reported autoreactive antibodies7,8 are secondary to autoimmunity rather than primary drivers of vulvar LP pathogenesis.

Certain medications also have been reported to cause cutaneous lichenoid drug eruptions. Although they can clinically and histologically mimic classic LP, lichenoid drug eruptions are a distinct entity. Common inciting medications include thiazide diuretics, angiotensin-converting enzyme inhibitors, anti-inflammatory drugs, antimalarials, checkpoint inhibitors, antimicrobials, antihypertensives, antidiabetics, and psychiatric drugs. The exact pathologic mechanism of lichenoid drug eruptions currently is unclear but is thought to involve the binding of drug molecules to the cell-surface proteins of the epidermis, creating an antigenic hapten stimulus for CD8+T cells and triggering apoptosis of keratinocytes.1

The clinical severity of LP can range from mild localized disease to widespread and debilitating involvement. Multiple treatment modalities have been developed for management of LP, including topical and intralesional corticosteroids, phototherapy, Janus kinase inhibitors, phosphodiesterase-4 inhibitors, and anti–TNF-α inhibitors. Herein, we provide a narrative review and summary of the use of the TNF-α inhibitor adalimumab as a potential effective treatment for patients with LP.

Methods

We conducted a PubMed search of articles indexed for MEDLINE from 2005 to 2025 using the terms adalimumab AND lichen planus or adalimumab AND lichen. Articles that reported cases of oral LP, cutaneous LP, LPP, or lichenoid eruptions and adalimumab therapy were included in our review. Articles that used non-adalimumab TNF-α inhibitors were excluded. Using the search terms, 2 independent reviewers (M.G. and N.E.) conducted the literature review then screened the articles based on the inclusion and exclusion criteria. Our literature search yielded 40 articles, of which 20 met the criteria for inclusion in our narrative review.

Results

Our literature search yielded 11 patients with LP who were treated with adalimumab across studies (Table 1).10-16 Prior LP treatments included topical corticosteroids (11/11 [100%]), disease-modifying antirheumatic drugs (6/11 [54.5%]), retinoids (4/11 [36.4%]), and psoralen plus UVA (1/11 [36.4%]). Adalimumab was administered subcutaneously following 4 treatment regimens: (1) 160 mg in week 1, then 80 mg in week 2, then 40 mg weekly for a median duration of 36 weeks (6/11 [54.5%]); (2) 80 mg in week 1, then 40 mg in week 2, 40 mg every 2 weeks for 20 weeks (1/11 [9.1%]); (3) 80 mg in week 1, then 40 mg every 2 weeks for a median duration of 12 weeks (2/11 [18.2%]); and (4) 40 mg every 2 weeks (2/11 [18.2%]). Adalimumab generally was well tolerated, with only 1 (9.1%) patient experiencing minor stress-related mucocutaneous flares on the tongue and extremities that resolved spontaneously.12 Remission was achieved in 5 (45.5%) patients, with time to remission ranging from 2 to 4 months after adalimumab therapy, with a median of 2.5 months. In 1 (9.1%) patient with bullous LP, adalimumab therapy led to remission after 10 weeks. In both cases of oral and cutaneous LP (2/11 [18.2%]), remission was achieved after 2 months of treatment. Of the 2 LPP patients reported, 1 had hair regrowth after 9 months, and the other experienced remission after 3 months of adalimumab therapy. In the 1 (9.1%) case of annular LP, adalimumab treatment led to remission after 4 months. Five (45.5%) patients with vulvar LP treated with adalimumab for at least 9 months demonstrated improved Vulvar Quality of Life Index scores without improvement in their mucosal LP lesions. In 4 of the 5 (80.0%) patients who experienced remission after adalimumab treatment, remission lasted at least 6 to 10 months, with a median of 6 months; remission duration was not reported in 1 (20.0%) patient.

CT117003012_e-Table-1

Paradoxically, our review of the literature yielded 12 patients in whom adalimumab was associated with lichenoid-type eruptions across 9 studies (Table 2).17-29 The conditions for which these patients were undergoing treatment with adalimumab included ulcerative colitis,17 psoriasis,18,19 Crohn disease,20,26 rheumatoid arthritis,21-23,26 oligoarthritis,24 and ankylosing spondylitis.25 Lichenoid drug eruptions occurred on the legs (5/12 [41.7%]), arms (3/12 [25%]), oral mucosa (2/12 [16.7%]), and forehead or scalp (2/12 [16.7%]). Onset of time to these lichenoid eruptions ranged from 2 weeks to 17 months, with a median of 4 months. Adalimumab was discontinued in 9 (75.0%) patients and was continued in 3 (25.0%). One patient who had an onset of their lichenoid eruption after 17 months of treatment with adalimumab continued to receive adalimumab therapy with the addition of topical corticosteroids, which led to resolution of their oral lesions and partial remission of their cutaneous lesions. In 1 (8.3%) patient with localized buccal lichenoid eruptions, discontinuation of adalimumab on its own was sufficient to completely clear the lesions. Seven patients (7/12 [58.3%]) received topical corticosteroids with minimal (2/12 [16.7%]) or moderate (4/12 [33.3%]) improvement, and 1 (8.3%) patient did not have reported outcomes data. Eosinophils were detected within the adalimumab-associated lichenoid eruptions in 3 (25.0%) patients.17,20,22

CT117003012_e-Table-2

In addition to its association with lichenoid drug eruptions, adalimumab also was reported to induce LPP in a patient who was being treated for Behçet disease,29 oral LP in a patient being treated for Crohn disease,27 and cutaneous LP in a patient being treated for Crohn disease (Table 2).28 Time to onset ranged from 4 to 10 months, with a median of 6 months. Adalimumab was discontinued in 2 of 3 (66.7%) patients and was continued in the other patient (33.3%). After cessation of adalimumab therapy, administration of topical steroids led to complete resolution in the case of associated oral LP. In contrast, in adalimumab-induced cutaneous LP, initial topical corticosteroid treatment led to progression of lesions, which mostly resolved after adalimumab cessation. In 1 patient with LPP in whom adalimumab therapy could not be discontinued, topical corticosteroid and methotrexate therapy reduced the perifollicular erythema and stabilized the alopecia without full remission.

Comment

Conventional treatment modalities for LP often include topical corticosteroids as first-line therapy, with systemic corticosteroids, phototherapy, retinoids, or immunosuppressants (eg, cyclosporine or methotrexate) reserved for more severe or widespread disease. Historically, these approaches primarily have aimed to control symptoms rather than achieve long-term resolution; however, novel therapies including biologics and targeted immunomodulators show potential to induce sustained remission and improve quality of life for patients with refractory or mucosal LP.

In all reports where adalimumab was used to treat LP, patients initially received topical corticosteroids. While corticosteroids and other immunosuppressive agents are standard therapies, they often provide only temporary relief and may have an unfavorable side effect profile. Our review highlights the emerging role of adalimumab, a TNF-α inhibitor, in off-label management of LP subtypes, including cutaneous, mucosal, and vulvar LP and LPP. In several small case series and reports, patients treated with adalimumab experienced clinical improvement, including symptom resolution and quality-of-life enhancement, as well as complete remission, indicating a durable response.

The potential benefit of adalimumab in treating LP must be balanced with its paradoxical risk for inducing lichenoid eruptions as well as LP and its variants, as identified in our narrative review that included reports of patients receiving this biologic for other indications.17-29 Since adalimumab is a fully humanized antibody, the development of neutralizing antibodies may not account for drug-induced LP and lichenoid eruptions. Given that it blocks TNF-α, adalimumab may induce these lesions through a cytokine imbalance. This is supported by data demonstrating enhanced type I IFN-related proteins in plaques of patients with psoriasiform lesions treated with TNF-α inhibitors.26 These drug-induced eruptions often resolved or improved with topical corticosteroids after discontinuation, but their occurrence underscores the complexity of therapeutically targeting TNF-α in the management of LP. Our literature review suggests that adalimumab may offer therapeutic benefit in select cases of LP refractory to conventional therapy, especially when systemic control is required. Nonetheless, the risk for LP and lichenoid reactions necessitates cautious use and further investigation.

Conclusion

While the current evidence is limited to case reports and series, adalimumab shows promise as an effective and tolerable off-label treatment for LP, particularly in patients who are unresponsive to conventional immunosuppressive therapies. Remission or clinically significant improvement was achieved in several cases; however, the potential for adalimumab to induce LP and lichenoid eruptions underscores the need for careful patient selection and monitoring. Further prospective studies and larger cohorts are warranted to better define the safety and efficacy of adalimumab in treating LP lesions.

Lichen planus (LP) is a chronic inflammatory condition affecting the skin (cutaneous LP), mucous membranes (oral, ocular, or vulvar LP), hair (lichen planopilaris [LPP]), and nails that predominantly occurs in middle-aged adults. Although the true etiology remains unknown, the pathogenesis of LP is thought to involve multiple factors. Several human leukocyte antigen (HLA) alleles have been associated with LP and its variants, including HLA-B27, HLA-B51, HLA-DR1 (cutaneous and oral LP), HLA-DRB1*11, and HLA-DQB1*03 (LPP). Additionally, HLA-Bw57 has been reported to be associated with oral LP in a cohort of British patients.1 In addition to HLA alleles, genetic polymorphisms in cytokines including IL-4, IL-6, IL-18, interferon (IFN) γ, and tumor necrosis factor (TNF) α and its receptor have been found to be associated with LP.2 Beyond genetics, chronic viral infection has been implicated in the development of LP. Systemic infection with the hepatitis C virus has been linked to the development of oral LP by promoting the recruitment of hepatitis C virus–specific CD8+ T cells from peripheral blood to the oral lesions, where they exhibit a terminally differentiated effector status.3 Another report found an association between human herpesvirus 7 (HHV-7) and cutaneous LP; in this study, HHV-7 RNA was detected in plasmacytoid dendritic cells but not T cells and diminished after treatment, providing evidence for dendritic cells being involved in the HHV-7–mediated pathogenesis of cutaneous LP.4 These findings were further corroborated by another study of oral LP patients that found enhanced infiltration of plasmacytoid and myeloid dendritic cells and upregulation in toll-like receptor and IFN-γ signaling.4

In addition to immune cell dysregulation, LP and its variants have been linked to neurogenic inflammation. In oral LP lesions, neurokinin 1 receptor and substance P were highly expressed and demonstrated a positive correlation with the expression of apoptotic marker caspase-3 and proliferation marker Ki-67.5 These results suggest that neuropeptides may be involved in cell proliferation and turnover in oral LP. Similarly, in patients with LPP, substance P was more abundant in affected areas, whereas another neuropeptide, calcitonin gene-related peptide, was more highly expressed in unaffected areas,6 further supporting the pathogenic role of neurogenic inflammation in LP.

A mucosal variant that often goes undiagnosed is vulvar LP. Although no distinct pathologic mechanism for vulvar LP has been established, prior reports found an association with autoantibodies.7,8 In patients with erosive vulvar LP, epidermal-binding basement membrane zone antibodies were detected in epidermal skin biopsies and in circulation with reactivity to bullous pemphigoid antigens 180 (9/11 [81.8%] patients) and 230 (2/11 [18.2%] patients).7 A similar study in patients with vulvar lichen sclerosus found similar proportions of circulating antibodies reactive to bullous pemphigoid antigens 180 (6/7 [85.7%] patients) and 230 (1/7 [14.3%] patients).8 Erosive vulvar LP has been shown to be associated with autoimmune disease (eg, alopecia areata, celiac disease and pernicious anemia),9 which suggests that the previously reported autoreactive antibodies7,8 are secondary to autoimmunity rather than primary drivers of vulvar LP pathogenesis.

Certain medications also have been reported to cause cutaneous lichenoid drug eruptions. Although they can clinically and histologically mimic classic LP, lichenoid drug eruptions are a distinct entity. Common inciting medications include thiazide diuretics, angiotensin-converting enzyme inhibitors, anti-inflammatory drugs, antimalarials, checkpoint inhibitors, antimicrobials, antihypertensives, antidiabetics, and psychiatric drugs. The exact pathologic mechanism of lichenoid drug eruptions currently is unclear but is thought to involve the binding of drug molecules to the cell-surface proteins of the epidermis, creating an antigenic hapten stimulus for CD8+T cells and triggering apoptosis of keratinocytes.1

The clinical severity of LP can range from mild localized disease to widespread and debilitating involvement. Multiple treatment modalities have been developed for management of LP, including topical and intralesional corticosteroids, phototherapy, Janus kinase inhibitors, phosphodiesterase-4 inhibitors, and anti–TNF-α inhibitors. Herein, we provide a narrative review and summary of the use of the TNF-α inhibitor adalimumab as a potential effective treatment for patients with LP.

Methods

We conducted a PubMed search of articles indexed for MEDLINE from 2005 to 2025 using the terms adalimumab AND lichen planus or adalimumab AND lichen. Articles that reported cases of oral LP, cutaneous LP, LPP, or lichenoid eruptions and adalimumab therapy were included in our review. Articles that used non-adalimumab TNF-α inhibitors were excluded. Using the search terms, 2 independent reviewers (M.G. and N.E.) conducted the literature review then screened the articles based on the inclusion and exclusion criteria. Our literature search yielded 40 articles, of which 20 met the criteria for inclusion in our narrative review.

Results

Our literature search yielded 11 patients with LP who were treated with adalimumab across studies (Table 1).10-16 Prior LP treatments included topical corticosteroids (11/11 [100%]), disease-modifying antirheumatic drugs (6/11 [54.5%]), retinoids (4/11 [36.4%]), and psoralen plus UVA (1/11 [36.4%]). Adalimumab was administered subcutaneously following 4 treatment regimens: (1) 160 mg in week 1, then 80 mg in week 2, then 40 mg weekly for a median duration of 36 weeks (6/11 [54.5%]); (2) 80 mg in week 1, then 40 mg in week 2, 40 mg every 2 weeks for 20 weeks (1/11 [9.1%]); (3) 80 mg in week 1, then 40 mg every 2 weeks for a median duration of 12 weeks (2/11 [18.2%]); and (4) 40 mg every 2 weeks (2/11 [18.2%]). Adalimumab generally was well tolerated, with only 1 (9.1%) patient experiencing minor stress-related mucocutaneous flares on the tongue and extremities that resolved spontaneously.12 Remission was achieved in 5 (45.5%) patients, with time to remission ranging from 2 to 4 months after adalimumab therapy, with a median of 2.5 months. In 1 (9.1%) patient with bullous LP, adalimumab therapy led to remission after 10 weeks. In both cases of oral and cutaneous LP (2/11 [18.2%]), remission was achieved after 2 months of treatment. Of the 2 LPP patients reported, 1 had hair regrowth after 9 months, and the other experienced remission after 3 months of adalimumab therapy. In the 1 (9.1%) case of annular LP, adalimumab treatment led to remission after 4 months. Five (45.5%) patients with vulvar LP treated with adalimumab for at least 9 months demonstrated improved Vulvar Quality of Life Index scores without improvement in their mucosal LP lesions. In 4 of the 5 (80.0%) patients who experienced remission after adalimumab treatment, remission lasted at least 6 to 10 months, with a median of 6 months; remission duration was not reported in 1 (20.0%) patient.

CT117003012_e-Table-1

Paradoxically, our review of the literature yielded 12 patients in whom adalimumab was associated with lichenoid-type eruptions across 9 studies (Table 2).17-29 The conditions for which these patients were undergoing treatment with adalimumab included ulcerative colitis,17 psoriasis,18,19 Crohn disease,20,26 rheumatoid arthritis,21-23,26 oligoarthritis,24 and ankylosing spondylitis.25 Lichenoid drug eruptions occurred on the legs (5/12 [41.7%]), arms (3/12 [25%]), oral mucosa (2/12 [16.7%]), and forehead or scalp (2/12 [16.7%]). Onset of time to these lichenoid eruptions ranged from 2 weeks to 17 months, with a median of 4 months. Adalimumab was discontinued in 9 (75.0%) patients and was continued in 3 (25.0%). One patient who had an onset of their lichenoid eruption after 17 months of treatment with adalimumab continued to receive adalimumab therapy with the addition of topical corticosteroids, which led to resolution of their oral lesions and partial remission of their cutaneous lesions. In 1 (8.3%) patient with localized buccal lichenoid eruptions, discontinuation of adalimumab on its own was sufficient to completely clear the lesions. Seven patients (7/12 [58.3%]) received topical corticosteroids with minimal (2/12 [16.7%]) or moderate (4/12 [33.3%]) improvement, and 1 (8.3%) patient did not have reported outcomes data. Eosinophils were detected within the adalimumab-associated lichenoid eruptions in 3 (25.0%) patients.17,20,22

CT117003012_e-Table-2

In addition to its association with lichenoid drug eruptions, adalimumab also was reported to induce LPP in a patient who was being treated for Behçet disease,29 oral LP in a patient being treated for Crohn disease,27 and cutaneous LP in a patient being treated for Crohn disease (Table 2).28 Time to onset ranged from 4 to 10 months, with a median of 6 months. Adalimumab was discontinued in 2 of 3 (66.7%) patients and was continued in the other patient (33.3%). After cessation of adalimumab therapy, administration of topical steroids led to complete resolution in the case of associated oral LP. In contrast, in adalimumab-induced cutaneous LP, initial topical corticosteroid treatment led to progression of lesions, which mostly resolved after adalimumab cessation. In 1 patient with LPP in whom adalimumab therapy could not be discontinued, topical corticosteroid and methotrexate therapy reduced the perifollicular erythema and stabilized the alopecia without full remission.

Comment

Conventional treatment modalities for LP often include topical corticosteroids as first-line therapy, with systemic corticosteroids, phototherapy, retinoids, or immunosuppressants (eg, cyclosporine or methotrexate) reserved for more severe or widespread disease. Historically, these approaches primarily have aimed to control symptoms rather than achieve long-term resolution; however, novel therapies including biologics and targeted immunomodulators show potential to induce sustained remission and improve quality of life for patients with refractory or mucosal LP.

In all reports where adalimumab was used to treat LP, patients initially received topical corticosteroids. While corticosteroids and other immunosuppressive agents are standard therapies, they often provide only temporary relief and may have an unfavorable side effect profile. Our review highlights the emerging role of adalimumab, a TNF-α inhibitor, in off-label management of LP subtypes, including cutaneous, mucosal, and vulvar LP and LPP. In several small case series and reports, patients treated with adalimumab experienced clinical improvement, including symptom resolution and quality-of-life enhancement, as well as complete remission, indicating a durable response.

The potential benefit of adalimumab in treating LP must be balanced with its paradoxical risk for inducing lichenoid eruptions as well as LP and its variants, as identified in our narrative review that included reports of patients receiving this biologic for other indications.17-29 Since adalimumab is a fully humanized antibody, the development of neutralizing antibodies may not account for drug-induced LP and lichenoid eruptions. Given that it blocks TNF-α, adalimumab may induce these lesions through a cytokine imbalance. This is supported by data demonstrating enhanced type I IFN-related proteins in plaques of patients with psoriasiform lesions treated with TNF-α inhibitors.26 These drug-induced eruptions often resolved or improved with topical corticosteroids after discontinuation, but their occurrence underscores the complexity of therapeutically targeting TNF-α in the management of LP. Our literature review suggests that adalimumab may offer therapeutic benefit in select cases of LP refractory to conventional therapy, especially when systemic control is required. Nonetheless, the risk for LP and lichenoid reactions necessitates cautious use and further investigation.

Conclusion

While the current evidence is limited to case reports and series, adalimumab shows promise as an effective and tolerable off-label treatment for LP, particularly in patients who are unresponsive to conventional immunosuppressive therapies. Remission or clinically significant improvement was achieved in several cases; however, the potential for adalimumab to induce LP and lichenoid eruptions underscores the need for careful patient selection and monitoring. Further prospective studies and larger cohorts are warranted to better define the safety and efficacy of adalimumab in treating LP lesions.

References
  1. Boch K, Langan EA, Kridin K, et al. Lichen planus. Front Med (Lausanne). 2021;8:737813.
  2. Gorouhi F, Davari P, Fazel N. Cutaneous and mucosal lichen planus: a comprehensive review of clinical subtypes, risk factors, diagnosis, and prognosis. ScientificWorldJournal. 2014;2014:742826.
  3. Pilli M, Penna A, Zerbini A, et al. Oral lichen planus pathogenesis: a role for the HCV-specific cellular immune response. Hepatology. 2002;36:1446-1452.
  4. Wang Y, Shang S, Sun Q, et al. Increased infiltration of CD11 c+/CD123+ dendritic cell subsets and upregulation of TLR/IFN-α signaling participate in pathogenesis of oral lichen planus. Oral Surg Oral Med Oral Pathol Oral Radiol. 2018;125:459-467.E2.
  5. González Moles M, Esteban F, Ruiz-Ávila I, et al. A role for the substance P/NK-1 receptor complex in cell proliferation and apoptosis in oral lichen planus. Oral Dis. 2009;15:162-169.
  6. Doche I, Wilcox GL, Ericson M, et al. Evidence for neurogenic inflammation in lichen planopilaris and frontal fibrosing alopecia pathogenic mechanism. Exp Dermatol. 2020;29:282-285.
  7. Cooper SM, Dean D, Allen J, et al. Erosive lichen planus of the vulva: weak circulating basement membrane zone antibodies are present. Clin Exp Dermatol. 2005;30:551-556.
  8. Howard A, Dean D, Cooper S, et al. Circulating basement membrane zone antibodies are found in lichen sclerosus of the vulva. Australas J Dermatol. 2004;45:12-15.
  9. Cooper SM, Ali I, Baldo M, et al. The association of lichen sclerosus and erosive lichen planus of the vulva with autoimmune disease: a case-control study. Arch Dermatol. 2008;144:1432-1435.
  10. Alam MS, LaBelle B. Treatment of lichen planopilaris with adalimumab in a patient with hidradenitis suppurativa and rheumatoid arthritis. JAAD Case Rep. 2020;6:219-221.
  11. Alhubayshi BS, Alnoshan AA, Alhumidi AA, et al. Bullous lichen planus treated with adalimumab: a case report. Case Rep Dermatol. 2025;17:42-47.
  12. Chao TJ. Adalimumab in the management of cutaneous and oral lichen planus. Cutis. 2009;84:325-328.
  13. Courtney A, Adamson SR, Veysey E. Adalimumab use in severe recalcitrant vulval lichen sclerosus and vulval lichen planus. J Low Genit Tract Dis. 2025;29:190-194.
  14. Holló P, Szakonyi J, Kiss D, et al. Successful treatment of lichen planus with adalimumab. Acta Derm Venereol. 2012;92:385-386.
  15. Khodeir J, Ohanian P, Ohanian M. Successful treatment of annular atrophic lichen planus with adalimumab. Clin Case Rep. 2025;13:E70036.
  16. Kreutzer K, Effendy I. Therapy-resistant folliculitis decalvans and lichen planopilaris successfully treated with adalimumab. J Dtsch Dermatol Ges. 2014;12:74-76.
  17. Alkheraiji A, Alotaibi H, Irfan Thalib H. Lichenoid drug eruption secondary to adalimumab: a case report. Cureus. 2024;16:E64013.
  18. Asarch A, Gottlieb AB, Lee J, et al. Lichen planus-like eruptions: an emerging side effect of tumor necrosis factor-alpha antagonists. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2009;61:104-111.
  19. De Simone C, Caldarola G, D’Agostino M, et al. Lichenoid reaction induced by adalimumab. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2008;22:626-627.
  20. El Habr C, Meguerian Z, Sammour R. Adalimumab-induced lichenoid drug eruption. J Med Liban. 2014;62:238-240.
  21. Exarchou SA, Voulgari PV, Markatseli TE, et al. Immune-mediated skin lesions in patients treated with anti-tumour necrosis factor alpha inhibitors. Scand J Rheumatol. 2009;38:328-331.
  22. Flendrie M, Vissers WH, Creemers MC, et al. Dermatological conditions during TNF-α-blocking therapy in patients with rheumatoid arthritis: a prospective study. Arthritis Res Ther. 2005;7:R666-R676.
  23. Inoue A, Sawada Y, Yamaguchi T, et al. Lichenoid drug eruption caused by adalimumab: a case report and literature review. Eur J Dermatol. 2017;27:69-70.
  24. Jayasekera PSA, Walsh ML, Hurrell D, et al. Case report of lichen planopilaris occurring in a pediatric patient receiving a tumor necrosis factor α inhibitor and a review of the literature. Pediatr Dermatol. 2016;33:E143-E146.
  25. Oliveira SCD, Vasconcelos AHC, Magalhães EPB, et al. Clinical, histopathological and outcome analysis of five patients with lichenoid eruption following anti-tumor necrosis factor-alpha therapy for ankylosing spondylitis: report of one case and review of the literature. Cureus. 2020;12:E10598.
  26. Seneschal J, Milpied B, Vergier B, et al. Cytokine imbalance with increased production of interferon-alpha in psoriasiform eruptions associated with antitumour necrosis factor-alpha treatments. Br J Dermatol. 2009;161:1081-1088.
  27. Andrade P, Lopes S, Albuquerque A, et al. Oral lichen planus in IBD patients: a paradoxical adverse effect of anti-TNF-α therapy. Dig Dis Sci. 2015;60:2746-2749.
  28. Au S, Hernandez C. Paradoxical induction of psoriasis and lichen planus by tumor necrosis factor-α inhibitors. Skinmed. 2015;13:403-405.
  29. McCarty M, Basile A, Bair B, et al. Lichenoid reactions in association with tumor necrosis factor alpha inhibitors. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2015;8:45-49.
References
  1. Boch K, Langan EA, Kridin K, et al. Lichen planus. Front Med (Lausanne). 2021;8:737813.
  2. Gorouhi F, Davari P, Fazel N. Cutaneous and mucosal lichen planus: a comprehensive review of clinical subtypes, risk factors, diagnosis, and prognosis. ScientificWorldJournal. 2014;2014:742826.
  3. Pilli M, Penna A, Zerbini A, et al. Oral lichen planus pathogenesis: a role for the HCV-specific cellular immune response. Hepatology. 2002;36:1446-1452.
  4. Wang Y, Shang S, Sun Q, et al. Increased infiltration of CD11 c+/CD123+ dendritic cell subsets and upregulation of TLR/IFN-α signaling participate in pathogenesis of oral lichen planus. Oral Surg Oral Med Oral Pathol Oral Radiol. 2018;125:459-467.E2.
  5. González Moles M, Esteban F, Ruiz-Ávila I, et al. A role for the substance P/NK-1 receptor complex in cell proliferation and apoptosis in oral lichen planus. Oral Dis. 2009;15:162-169.
  6. Doche I, Wilcox GL, Ericson M, et al. Evidence for neurogenic inflammation in lichen planopilaris and frontal fibrosing alopecia pathogenic mechanism. Exp Dermatol. 2020;29:282-285.
  7. Cooper SM, Dean D, Allen J, et al. Erosive lichen planus of the vulva: weak circulating basement membrane zone antibodies are present. Clin Exp Dermatol. 2005;30:551-556.
  8. Howard A, Dean D, Cooper S, et al. Circulating basement membrane zone antibodies are found in lichen sclerosus of the vulva. Australas J Dermatol. 2004;45:12-15.
  9. Cooper SM, Ali I, Baldo M, et al. The association of lichen sclerosus and erosive lichen planus of the vulva with autoimmune disease: a case-control study. Arch Dermatol. 2008;144:1432-1435.
  10. Alam MS, LaBelle B. Treatment of lichen planopilaris with adalimumab in a patient with hidradenitis suppurativa and rheumatoid arthritis. JAAD Case Rep. 2020;6:219-221.
  11. Alhubayshi BS, Alnoshan AA, Alhumidi AA, et al. Bullous lichen planus treated with adalimumab: a case report. Case Rep Dermatol. 2025;17:42-47.
  12. Chao TJ. Adalimumab in the management of cutaneous and oral lichen planus. Cutis. 2009;84:325-328.
  13. Courtney A, Adamson SR, Veysey E. Adalimumab use in severe recalcitrant vulval lichen sclerosus and vulval lichen planus. J Low Genit Tract Dis. 2025;29:190-194.
  14. Holló P, Szakonyi J, Kiss D, et al. Successful treatment of lichen planus with adalimumab. Acta Derm Venereol. 2012;92:385-386.
  15. Khodeir J, Ohanian P, Ohanian M. Successful treatment of annular atrophic lichen planus with adalimumab. Clin Case Rep. 2025;13:E70036.
  16. Kreutzer K, Effendy I. Therapy-resistant folliculitis decalvans and lichen planopilaris successfully treated with adalimumab. J Dtsch Dermatol Ges. 2014;12:74-76.
  17. Alkheraiji A, Alotaibi H, Irfan Thalib H. Lichenoid drug eruption secondary to adalimumab: a case report. Cureus. 2024;16:E64013.
  18. Asarch A, Gottlieb AB, Lee J, et al. Lichen planus-like eruptions: an emerging side effect of tumor necrosis factor-alpha antagonists. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2009;61:104-111.
  19. De Simone C, Caldarola G, D’Agostino M, et al. Lichenoid reaction induced by adalimumab. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2008;22:626-627.
  20. El Habr C, Meguerian Z, Sammour R. Adalimumab-induced lichenoid drug eruption. J Med Liban. 2014;62:238-240.
  21. Exarchou SA, Voulgari PV, Markatseli TE, et al. Immune-mediated skin lesions in patients treated with anti-tumour necrosis factor alpha inhibitors. Scand J Rheumatol. 2009;38:328-331.
  22. Flendrie M, Vissers WH, Creemers MC, et al. Dermatological conditions during TNF-α-blocking therapy in patients with rheumatoid arthritis: a prospective study. Arthritis Res Ther. 2005;7:R666-R676.
  23. Inoue A, Sawada Y, Yamaguchi T, et al. Lichenoid drug eruption caused by adalimumab: a case report and literature review. Eur J Dermatol. 2017;27:69-70.
  24. Jayasekera PSA, Walsh ML, Hurrell D, et al. Case report of lichen planopilaris occurring in a pediatric patient receiving a tumor necrosis factor α inhibitor and a review of the literature. Pediatr Dermatol. 2016;33:E143-E146.
  25. Oliveira SCD, Vasconcelos AHC, Magalhães EPB, et al. Clinical, histopathological and outcome analysis of five patients with lichenoid eruption following anti-tumor necrosis factor-alpha therapy for ankylosing spondylitis: report of one case and review of the literature. Cureus. 2020;12:E10598.
  26. Seneschal J, Milpied B, Vergier B, et al. Cytokine imbalance with increased production of interferon-alpha in psoriasiform eruptions associated with antitumour necrosis factor-alpha treatments. Br J Dermatol. 2009;161:1081-1088.
  27. Andrade P, Lopes S, Albuquerque A, et al. Oral lichen planus in IBD patients: a paradoxical adverse effect of anti-TNF-α therapy. Dig Dis Sci. 2015;60:2746-2749.
  28. Au S, Hernandez C. Paradoxical induction of psoriasis and lichen planus by tumor necrosis factor-α inhibitors. Skinmed. 2015;13:403-405.
  29. McCarty M, Basile A, Bair B, et al. Lichenoid reactions in association with tumor necrosis factor alpha inhibitors. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2015;8:45-49.
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Adalimumab in Lichen Planus: A Narrative Review of Treatment and Paradoxical Reactions

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Adalimumab in Lichen Planus: A Narrative Review of Treatment and Paradoxical Reactions

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  • Adalimumab can be beneficial when used off label for treatment of lichen planus in patients who do not respond to conventional therapies, including corticosteroids and immunosuppressants.
  • Clinicians should be aware that adalimumab could potentially lead to paradoxical lichenoid eruptions and should monitor patients closely during treatment.
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Historical Perspectives on Hair Care and Common Styling Practices in Black Women

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Historical Perspectives on Hair Care and Common Styling Practices in Black Women

Patients often ask dermatologists how to best care for their specific hair type; however, there are no formal recommendations that apply to the many different hair care practices utilized by Black patients, as hair types in this community can range from wavy to tightly coiled.1 Understanding the the history of hair care in those of African ancestry and various styling practices in this population is necessary to adequately counsel patients and gain trust in the doctor-patient relationship. In this article, we provide an overview of hair care recommendations based on common styling practices in Black women.

A PubMed search of articles indexed for MEDLINE using the terms Black hair care, African American hair management, hair loss prevention, hair care practices, natural hair, natural-hair styles, alopecia, hairdressing, hair breakage, hair fragility, heat-stressed hair, traction alopecia, and natural hair care yielded 305 results; 107 duplicates were identified and removed, leaving 198 articles to be screened for eligibility (ie, English-language studies created in the past 15 years). Sixty-eight full-text articles were screened against the exclusion criteria, which included case reports and case series, articles not focused on Afro-textured hair, and cancer-related hair loss. Three additional fulltext articles were identified via resources from Wayne State University library (Detroit, Michigan) that were not available on PubMed. A total of 29 full-text articles were included in our review.

Background on Hair Care and Styling in African Populations

It is difficult to understand the history of hair in those of African ancestry in the United States.2 Prior to slavery, hair styling was considered a way of identification, classification, and communication as well as a medium through which to connect with the spiritual world in many parts of Africa. Hair-styling practices in Africa included elaborate cornrows, threading, and braiding with many accessories. Notable hair-styling products included natural butters, herbs, and powders to assist with moisture retention. Scarves also were used during this time for ceremonies or protection.3 During the mass enslavement of African populations and their transportation to the Americas by Europeans, slaveholders routinely cut off all the hair of both men and women in order to objectify and erase the culture of African hair styling passed down through generations.4,5 Hair texture then was weaponized to create a caste system in plantation life, in which Black slaves with straight hair textures were granted the “privilege” of domestic work, while those with kinky hair were relegated to arduous manual labor in the fields.4 Years later, during the 1800s, laws were enacted in the United States to prohibit Black women from wearing tightly coiled natural hair in public places.5 Over the next few centuries from the 1800s to the early 2000s, various hair-styling trends such as the use of hot combs, perms, afros, and Jheri curls developed as a means for Black individuals to conform to societal pressure to adopt more European features; however, as time progressed, afros, braids, locs, and natural hair would become more dominant as statements against these same societal pressures.5

The natural hair movement, which emerged in the United States in the 2000s, encouraged Black women to abandon the use of toxic chemical hair straighteners, cultivate healthier hair care practices, disrupt Eurocentric standards of wearing straightened hair, and facilitate self-definition of beauty ideals from the Civil Rights Movement of the 1960s.4,5 It is estimated that between 30% and 70% of all Black women in the United States wear natural hair, including 79% of millennial Black women younger than 30 years6; however, several new trends such as wigs and weaves have grown in popularity since the early 2000s due to mainstream pop culture and improvements in creating natural hairlines.7,8

Key Features of Afro-Textured Hair

Individuals of African descent have the most diverse hair texture phenotypes, ranging from straight to tightly coiled.9 Although hair is chemically similar across various racial groups, differences are noted mainly in the shape of the hair shaft, with elliptical and curved shapes seen in Afrotextured hair. These differences yield more tightly curled strands than in other hair types; however, these features also contribute to fragility, as it creates points of weakness and decreases the tensile strength of the hair shaft.10 This inherent fragility leads to higher rates of hair breakage as well as lower moisture content and slower growth rates, which is why Afro-textured hair requires special care.9

Afro-textured hair generally falls into 2 main categories of the Andre Walker hair typing system: 4A-4C and 3A-3C.11 In the 4A-4C category, hair is described as coily or kinky. Common concerns related to this hair type include dryness and brittleness with increased susceptibility to breakage. The 3A-3C category is described as loose to corkscrew curls, with a common concern of dryness.11,12 Additionally, Loussouarn et al13 established a method to further define natural hair curliness using curve diameter and curl meters on glass plates to measure the curvature of hair strands. This method allows for assessing diversity and range of curliness within various races without relying on ethnic origin.13

Common Hair Care Practices

A description of each hair type and recommended styling practices with their levels of evidence can be found in the eTable.

CT115003095-eTable-part1CT115003095-eTable-part2CT115003095-eTable-part3

Natural Hair—Natural hair is classified as hair that has not been chemically changed by perms, heat, or other straightening treatments.12,14 For natural hair, retaining the moisture of the hair shaft should be the main focus, as moisture loss leads to considerable dryness.14 Generally, it is recommended to wash natural hair once per week or every other week; however, this can change based on hair length and oil production on the scalp. Washing daily may be ideal for shorter hair and monthly for longer hair to help prevent product build-up that can have a drying effect.15 Avoid shampoos that are drying (eg, sulfate and silicone products). The co-washing method also can be utilized, which entails washing the hair with a conditioning cleanser instead of shampoo and conditioner. However, this technique is not meant to completely replace shampoo.16 In fact, a clarifying shampoo is recommended after co-washing 3 or 4 times.16 The use of a hot oil treatment twice per month can promote moisture retention and reduce split-end formation.17 For maintenance between washes, many utilize the liquid, oil, cream (LOC) or liquid, cream, oil (LCO) methods, which describe regimens that utilize water, an oil of choice, and cream such as shea butter to lock in moisture.18 This method can be used as often as needed for dry hair.

Due to the susceptibility of Afro-textured hair to tangle and knot, using a wide-tooth comb, detangling brush, or detangling conditioners is a grade B recommendation for care (eTable). Though not widely documented in the literature, many of our patients have had anecdotal success detangling their hair simply by pulling hair strands apart by hand or “finger detangling” as well as using wide-tooth combs. Although both hair types are healthier in their natural states, kinky hair (type 4A-4C) is extremely fragile and more difficult to manage than less kinky hair (type 3A-3C).18

Special care is needed when detangling due to strands being weaker when wet.19 Detangling should be performed in a retrograde fashion. Deep conditioning can aid in moisture retention and should be performed weekly or biweekly.17-20 Depending on the health of the hair, protein treatments can be considered on a monthly basis to help preserve the cuticle. Styling with braids, twists, or other protective styles can then be completed on an individual basis.

Thermal Straightening—A blowout involves straightening the hair after a wash with the use of a hair dryer.21 This common hair-styling method does not employ the use of chemicals beyond light hair oils and heat-protectant creams or sprays, typically resulting in a less kinky afro or semi-straight hair. Thermal straightening utilizes heat to temporarily straighten hair strands. Flat irons with heated metal plates then can be used after blow-drying the hair to fully straighten and smooth the strands. These processes combined commonly are known as a silk press.21-22

For thermally straightened hair, it is recommended to either wrap the hair around the scalp to keep it flat or pin curl the hair and cover with a bonnet to sleep. Safe straightening techniques with the use of a flat iron include setting the temperature no higher than 175 °F or a low/medium setting while also limiting use to once per week if possible.23 The number of passes of the flat iron also should be limited to 1 to 2 to reduce breakage. A heat-protectant cream or spray also can be applied to the hair before flat ironing to minimize damage. Applying heat protectant to the hair prior to styling will help minimize heat damage by distributing the heat along the hair fiber surface, avoiding water boiling in the hair shaft and the development of bubble hair leading to damage.24

Chemical Straightening—Similar to how relaxers, perms, and Jheri curl treatments chemically modify hair texture using distinct chemicals yielding different curl patterns, the Brazilian blowout similarly straightens hair using a hair dryer and chemicals applied to hair strands after washing.21-24 Relaxers utilize sodium or guanidine hydroxide for straightening, perms use ammonium thioglycolate for curling, and Jheri curl treatments employ thioglycolates or mercaptans for defined curls. However, these treatments generally are cautioned against due to potential hair damage and recent associations with uterine and breast cancer in Black women. Research has suggested that endocrine disrupters in these products, especially those marketed to Black women, contribute to hormone-related disease processes.25,26 One study found higher concentrations of alkylphenols, the fragrance marker diethyl phthalate, and parabens in relaxers27; however, more research is needed to determine specific chemicals associated with these cancers.

Braids and Locs—Braiding is a technique that involves interlocking 3 or more sections of hair that may or may not be fixated to the scalp like a cornrow,11 and one can utilize extensions or natural hair depending on the desired outcome. Intended for long-term wear (ie, weeks to months), braids minimize breakage and reduce daily styling needs. Two popular styles—cornrows and individual braids—differ in preparation and weaving techniques. Cornrows are an Afro-centric style involving uniform, tightly woven braids that are close to the scalp, creating distinct patterns. Conversely, individual braids weave separate hair sections, offering diverse styling possibilities. Braiding practices should exclude hairline edges—often termed baby hairs—to prevent traction alopecia. Minimal use of edge gel, which helps to tame the vellus hairs at the frontotemporal scalp, as well as mindful weave volume, weight, and length are recommended to avert breakage. Braids that cause pain are too tight, can damage hair, and may cause traction alopecia.11 Braids should not be worn for longer than 3 months at a time and require biweekly washing with diluted shampoo and conditioner. Proper drying by wringing the hair with a microfiber towel is essential to avoid frizz and mold formation.

Locs are a low-maintenance hairstyle considered permanent until cut.28 This style involves twisting, palm rolling, or using tools such as crochet hooks to “lock” the hair. Regular maintenance with retwisting and cleaning is vital for loc health. Increased weight and tight twisting of locs can cause damage to the scalp and hair strands; however, locs are known to increase hair volume over time, often due to the accumulation of hairs that would otherwise have been shed in the telogen phase.28

Wigs and Weaves—Wigs consist of synthetic or human hair that can be strapped to the head with an adjustable band or glued to the scalp depending on the desired style.29 Wigs are removed daily, which allows for quick access to hair for cleansing and moisturizing. In contrast, weaves typically are sewn into the natural hair, which may make it difficult to reach the scalp for cleansing, leading to dryness and product build-up.29 Notably, there is evidence of a relationship between long-term use of weaves and traction alopecia.30

Wigs can have a fully synthetic hair line or lace hair line and can range from very affordable to expensive. When applied correctly, both styles offer an easy way to cover and protect the natural hair by reducing the amount of physical trauma related to daily hair styling. A lace-front wig contains a frontal thin mesh or lace that camouflages the natural frontal hairline.29,30 A risk of lace-front wigs is that they can cause friction alopecia secondary to repeated use of adhesives and repeated friction against the hairline. Generally, wigs and weaves should be cared for as one would care for one’s own hair.

Hair Care in Black Children—Children’s hair care begins with washing the hair and scalp with shampoo, applying conditioner, and detangling as needed.31 After rinsing out the conditioner, a leave-in conditioner can assist with moisture retention and further detangling. The hair is then styled, either wet or dry. Recommendations for hair care practices in Black children include loose hairstyles that do not strain hair roots and nightly removal of root-securing accessories (eg, barrettes, elastic hairbeads). Frequent cornrow styling and friction on chemically straightened hair were identified by a survey as considerable traction alopecia risk factors.32 Thus, educating caregivers on appropriate hair-grooming practices for children is important.

Hair Protection—Proactive steps to reduce hair loss include wearing satin bonnets and/or using satin pillowcases while sleeping regardless of hairstyle. Although evidence is limited, it is thought that satin and silk allow the hair to retain its moisture and natural oils, preventing breakage and friction.33,34 Frequent hair trimming every 2 to 4 months can reduce breakage when doing thermal treatments.35,36 When prolonged or repetitive styles are used, it is encouraged to give the hair a break between styles to recover from the repeated stress. Wearing an intermittent updo or high bun—a hairstyle in which the hair is pulled upward—can prevent breakage by reducing heavy strain on the hair; however, it is important to avoid the use of rubber bands due to friction and risk for tangling of hair strands. Instead, the use of covered elastic ties and/or those without metal is preferred.11 Alternatively, if a polished and neat appearance with slicked-back hair is desired, the practice of tautly pulling the hair is not recommended. Instead, use of an alcohol-free gel is suggested along with a satin scarf wrapped around the hairline to facilitate the setting of the hair in place.11

A common practice to preserve curly hairstyles while sleeping is known as the pineapple method, which protects the hair and aids in preserving the freshness and style of the curls.37 It consists of a loosely tied high ponytail at the top of the head allowing the curls to fall forward. This minimizes frizz and prevents the curls from forming knots.

Conclusion

Hair care recommendations in Black women can be complex due to a wide range of personal care preferences and styling techniques in this population. While evidence in the literature is limited, it still is important for dermatologists to be familiar with the different hair care practices utilized by Black women so they can effectively counsel patients and improve hair health. Knowledge of optimal hair care practices can aid in the prevention of common hair disorders that disproportionately affect this patient population, such as traction alopecia and trichorrhexis nodosa or breakage.

References
  1. Hall RR, Francis S, Whitt-Glover M, et al. Hair care practices as a barrier to physical activity in African American women. JAMA Dermatol. 2013;149:310-314. doi:10.1001/jamadermatol.2013.1946
  2. Johnson T, Bankhead T. Hair it is: examining the experiences of Black women with natural hair. Open J Soc Sci. 2014;02:86-100. doi:10.4236/jss.2014.21010
  3. Byrd AD, Tharps LL. Hair Story: Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America. 2nd ed. St Martin’s Griffin; 2014.
  4. Mbilishaka AM, Clemons K, Hudlin M, et al. Don’t get it twisted: untangling the psychology of hair discrimination within Black communities. Am J Orthopsychiatry. 2020;90:590-599. doi:10.1037 /ort0000468
  5. Khumalo NP. On the history of African hair care: more treasures await discovery. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2008;7:231. doi:10.1111/j.1473- 2165.2008.00396.x
  6. Johnson AM, Godsil RD, MacFarlane J, et al. The “good hair” study: explicit and implicit attitudes toward Black women’s hair. Perception Institute. February 2017. Accessed February 11, 2025. https://perception.org/publications/goodhairstudy/
  7. Haskin A, Aguh C. All hairstyles are not created equal: what the dermatologist needs to know about black hairstyling practices and the risk of traction alopecia (TA). J Am Acad Dermatol. 2016;75:606-611. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2016.02.1162
  8. Roseborough IE, McMichael AJ. Hair care practices in African- American patients. Semin Cutan Med Surg. 2009;28:103-108. doi:10.1016/j.sder.2009.04.007
  9. Menkart J Wolfram LJ Mao I. Caucasian hair, Negro hair and wool: similarities and differences. J Soc Cosmet Chem. 1996;17:769-787.
  10. Crawford K, Hernandez C. A review of hair care products for black individuals. Cutis. 2014;93:289-293.
  11. Mayo TT, Callender VD. The art of prevention: it’s too tight-loosen up and let your hair down. Int J Womens Dermatol. 2021;7:174-179. doi:10.1016/j.ijwd.2021.01.019
  12. De Sá Dias TC, Baby AR, Kaneko TM, et al. Relaxing/straightening of Afro-ethnic hair: historical overview. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2007;6:2-5. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2165.2007.00294.x
  13. Loussouarn G, Garcel AL, Lozano I, et al. Worldwide diversity of hair curliness: a new method of assessment. Int J Dermatol. 2007;46 (suppl 1):2-6. doi:10.1111/j.1365-4632.2007.03453.x
  14. Barba C, Mendez S, Marti M, et al. Water content of hair and nails. Thermochimica Acta. 2009;494:136-140. doi:10.1016/j.tca.2009.05.005
  15. Gray J. Hair care and hair care products. Clin Dermatol. 2001;19:227-236. doi:10.1016/s0738-081x(00)00133-4
  16. Gavazzoni Dias MFR. Pro and contra of cleansing conditioners. Skin Appendage Disord. 2019;5:131-134. doi:10.1159/000493588
  17. Gavazzoni Dias MFR. Hair cosmetics: an overview. Int J Trichology. 2015;7:2-15. doi:10.4103/0974-7753.153450
  18. Beal AC, Villarosa L, Abner A. The Black Parenting Book. 1999.
  19. Davis-Sivasothy A. The Science of Black Hair: A Comprehensive Guide to Textured Care. Saga Publishing; 2011.
  20. Robbins CR. The Physical Properties and Cosmetic Behavior of Hair. In: Robbins CR. Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair. 3rd ed. Springer Nature; 1994:299-370. doi:10.1007/978-1-4757-3898-8_8
  21. Weathersby C, McMichael A. Brazilian keratin hair treatment: a review. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2013;12:144-148. doi:10.1111/jocd.12030
  22. Barreto T, Weffort F, Frattini S, et al. Straight to the point: what do we know so far on hair straightening? Skin Appendage Disord. 2021;7:265-271. doi:10.1159/000514367
  23. Dussaud A, Rana B, Lam HT. Progressive hair straightening using an automated flat iron: function of silicones. J Cosmet Sci. 2013;64:119-131.
  24. Zhou Y, Rigoletto R, Koelmel D, et al. The effect of various cosmetic pretreatments on protecting hair from thermal damage by hot flat ironing. J Cosmet Sci. 2011;62:265-282.
  25. Chang CJ, O’Brien KM, Keil AP, et al. Use of straighteners and other hair products and incident uterine cancer. J Natl Cancer Inst. 2022;114:1636-1645. doi:10.1093/jnci/djac165
  26. White AJ, Gregoire AM, Taylor KW, et al. Adolescent use of hair dyes, straighteners and perms in relation to breast cancer risk. Int J Cancer. 2021;148:2255-2263. doi:10.1002/ijc.33413
  27. Helm JS, Nishioka M, Brody JG, et al. Measurement of endocrine disrupting and asthma-associated chemicals in hair products used by Black women. Environ Res. 2018;165:448-458.
  28. Asbeck S, Riley-Prescott C, Glaser E, et al. Afro-ethnic hairstyling trends, risks, and recommendations. Cosmetics. 2022;9:17. doi:10.3390 /cosmetics9010017
  29. Saed S, Ibrahim O, Bergfeld WF. Hair camouflage: a comprehensive review. Int J Womens Dermatol. 2016;2:122-127. doi:10.1016 /j.ijwd.2016.09.002
  30. Billero V, Miteva M. Traction alopecia: the root of the problem. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2018;11:149-159. doi:10.2147/CCID .S137296
  31. Jones NL, Heath CR. Hair at the intersection of dermatology and anthropology: a conversation on race and relationships. Pediatr Dermatol. 2021;38(suppl 2):158-160. doi:10.1111/pde.14721
  32. Rucker Wright D, Gathers R, Kapke A, et al. Hair care practices and their association with scalp and hair disorders in African American girls. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2011;64:253-262. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2010.05.037
  33. Carefoot H. Silk pillowcases for better hair and skin: what to know. The Washington Post. April 6, 2021. Accessed February 10, 2025. https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/wellness/silk-pillowcases-hair-skin-benefits-myths/2021/04/05/a7dcad7c-866a-11eb-82bc-e58213caa38e_story.html
  34. Samrao A, McMichael A, Mirmirani P. Nocturnal traction: techniques used for hair style maintenance while sleeping may be a risk factor for traction alopecia. Skin Appendage Disord. 2021;7:220-223. doi:10.1159/000513088
  35. Callender VD, McMichael AJ, Cohen GF. Medical and surgical therapies for alopecias in black women. Dermatol Ther. 2004;17:164-176. doi:10.1111/j.1396-0296.2004.04017.x
  36. McMichael AJ. Hair breakage in normal and weathered hair: focus on the Black patient. J Investig Dermatol Symp Proc. 2007;12:6-9. doi:10.1038/sj.jidsymp.5650047
  37. Bosley RE, Daveluy S. A primer to natural hair care practices in black patients. Cutis. 2015;95:78-80,106.
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Drs. Wong, Williams, and Tolliver have no relevant financial disclosures to report. Dr. Potts has received research grants from Incyte, Pfizer, Regeneron, and Sanofi.

Correspondence: Starling Tolliver, MD, 2 Church St S #3rd, New Haven, CT 06519 ([email protected]).

Cutis. 2025 March;115(3):95-99, E6-E8. doi:10.12788/cutis.1183

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From Wayne State University, Detroit, Michigan. Dr. Wong and Kirk Williams are from the School of Medicine, and Drs. Tolliver and Potts are from the Department of Dermatology.

Drs. Wong, Williams, and Tolliver have no relevant financial disclosures to report. Dr. Potts has received research grants from Incyte, Pfizer, Regeneron, and Sanofi.

Correspondence: Starling Tolliver, MD, 2 Church St S #3rd, New Haven, CT 06519 ([email protected]).

Cutis. 2025 March;115(3):95-99, E6-E8. doi:10.12788/cutis.1183

Author and Disclosure Information

From Wayne State University, Detroit, Michigan. Dr. Wong and Kirk Williams are from the School of Medicine, and Drs. Tolliver and Potts are from the Department of Dermatology.

Drs. Wong, Williams, and Tolliver have no relevant financial disclosures to report. Dr. Potts has received research grants from Incyte, Pfizer, Regeneron, and Sanofi.

Correspondence: Starling Tolliver, MD, 2 Church St S #3rd, New Haven, CT 06519 ([email protected]).

Cutis. 2025 March;115(3):95-99, E6-E8. doi:10.12788/cutis.1183

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Article PDF

Patients often ask dermatologists how to best care for their specific hair type; however, there are no formal recommendations that apply to the many different hair care practices utilized by Black patients, as hair types in this community can range from wavy to tightly coiled.1 Understanding the the history of hair care in those of African ancestry and various styling practices in this population is necessary to adequately counsel patients and gain trust in the doctor-patient relationship. In this article, we provide an overview of hair care recommendations based on common styling practices in Black women.

A PubMed search of articles indexed for MEDLINE using the terms Black hair care, African American hair management, hair loss prevention, hair care practices, natural hair, natural-hair styles, alopecia, hairdressing, hair breakage, hair fragility, heat-stressed hair, traction alopecia, and natural hair care yielded 305 results; 107 duplicates were identified and removed, leaving 198 articles to be screened for eligibility (ie, English-language studies created in the past 15 years). Sixty-eight full-text articles were screened against the exclusion criteria, which included case reports and case series, articles not focused on Afro-textured hair, and cancer-related hair loss. Three additional fulltext articles were identified via resources from Wayne State University library (Detroit, Michigan) that were not available on PubMed. A total of 29 full-text articles were included in our review.

Background on Hair Care and Styling in African Populations

It is difficult to understand the history of hair in those of African ancestry in the United States.2 Prior to slavery, hair styling was considered a way of identification, classification, and communication as well as a medium through which to connect with the spiritual world in many parts of Africa. Hair-styling practices in Africa included elaborate cornrows, threading, and braiding with many accessories. Notable hair-styling products included natural butters, herbs, and powders to assist with moisture retention. Scarves also were used during this time for ceremonies or protection.3 During the mass enslavement of African populations and their transportation to the Americas by Europeans, slaveholders routinely cut off all the hair of both men and women in order to objectify and erase the culture of African hair styling passed down through generations.4,5 Hair texture then was weaponized to create a caste system in plantation life, in which Black slaves with straight hair textures were granted the “privilege” of domestic work, while those with kinky hair were relegated to arduous manual labor in the fields.4 Years later, during the 1800s, laws were enacted in the United States to prohibit Black women from wearing tightly coiled natural hair in public places.5 Over the next few centuries from the 1800s to the early 2000s, various hair-styling trends such as the use of hot combs, perms, afros, and Jheri curls developed as a means for Black individuals to conform to societal pressure to adopt more European features; however, as time progressed, afros, braids, locs, and natural hair would become more dominant as statements against these same societal pressures.5

The natural hair movement, which emerged in the United States in the 2000s, encouraged Black women to abandon the use of toxic chemical hair straighteners, cultivate healthier hair care practices, disrupt Eurocentric standards of wearing straightened hair, and facilitate self-definition of beauty ideals from the Civil Rights Movement of the 1960s.4,5 It is estimated that between 30% and 70% of all Black women in the United States wear natural hair, including 79% of millennial Black women younger than 30 years6; however, several new trends such as wigs and weaves have grown in popularity since the early 2000s due to mainstream pop culture and improvements in creating natural hairlines.7,8

Key Features of Afro-Textured Hair

Individuals of African descent have the most diverse hair texture phenotypes, ranging from straight to tightly coiled.9 Although hair is chemically similar across various racial groups, differences are noted mainly in the shape of the hair shaft, with elliptical and curved shapes seen in Afrotextured hair. These differences yield more tightly curled strands than in other hair types; however, these features also contribute to fragility, as it creates points of weakness and decreases the tensile strength of the hair shaft.10 This inherent fragility leads to higher rates of hair breakage as well as lower moisture content and slower growth rates, which is why Afro-textured hair requires special care.9

Afro-textured hair generally falls into 2 main categories of the Andre Walker hair typing system: 4A-4C and 3A-3C.11 In the 4A-4C category, hair is described as coily or kinky. Common concerns related to this hair type include dryness and brittleness with increased susceptibility to breakage. The 3A-3C category is described as loose to corkscrew curls, with a common concern of dryness.11,12 Additionally, Loussouarn et al13 established a method to further define natural hair curliness using curve diameter and curl meters on glass plates to measure the curvature of hair strands. This method allows for assessing diversity and range of curliness within various races without relying on ethnic origin.13

Common Hair Care Practices

A description of each hair type and recommended styling practices with their levels of evidence can be found in the eTable.

CT115003095-eTable-part1CT115003095-eTable-part2CT115003095-eTable-part3

Natural Hair—Natural hair is classified as hair that has not been chemically changed by perms, heat, or other straightening treatments.12,14 For natural hair, retaining the moisture of the hair shaft should be the main focus, as moisture loss leads to considerable dryness.14 Generally, it is recommended to wash natural hair once per week or every other week; however, this can change based on hair length and oil production on the scalp. Washing daily may be ideal for shorter hair and monthly for longer hair to help prevent product build-up that can have a drying effect.15 Avoid shampoos that are drying (eg, sulfate and silicone products). The co-washing method also can be utilized, which entails washing the hair with a conditioning cleanser instead of shampoo and conditioner. However, this technique is not meant to completely replace shampoo.16 In fact, a clarifying shampoo is recommended after co-washing 3 or 4 times.16 The use of a hot oil treatment twice per month can promote moisture retention and reduce split-end formation.17 For maintenance between washes, many utilize the liquid, oil, cream (LOC) or liquid, cream, oil (LCO) methods, which describe regimens that utilize water, an oil of choice, and cream such as shea butter to lock in moisture.18 This method can be used as often as needed for dry hair.

Due to the susceptibility of Afro-textured hair to tangle and knot, using a wide-tooth comb, detangling brush, or detangling conditioners is a grade B recommendation for care (eTable). Though not widely documented in the literature, many of our patients have had anecdotal success detangling their hair simply by pulling hair strands apart by hand or “finger detangling” as well as using wide-tooth combs. Although both hair types are healthier in their natural states, kinky hair (type 4A-4C) is extremely fragile and more difficult to manage than less kinky hair (type 3A-3C).18

Special care is needed when detangling due to strands being weaker when wet.19 Detangling should be performed in a retrograde fashion. Deep conditioning can aid in moisture retention and should be performed weekly or biweekly.17-20 Depending on the health of the hair, protein treatments can be considered on a monthly basis to help preserve the cuticle. Styling with braids, twists, or other protective styles can then be completed on an individual basis.

Thermal Straightening—A blowout involves straightening the hair after a wash with the use of a hair dryer.21 This common hair-styling method does not employ the use of chemicals beyond light hair oils and heat-protectant creams or sprays, typically resulting in a less kinky afro or semi-straight hair. Thermal straightening utilizes heat to temporarily straighten hair strands. Flat irons with heated metal plates then can be used after blow-drying the hair to fully straighten and smooth the strands. These processes combined commonly are known as a silk press.21-22

For thermally straightened hair, it is recommended to either wrap the hair around the scalp to keep it flat or pin curl the hair and cover with a bonnet to sleep. Safe straightening techniques with the use of a flat iron include setting the temperature no higher than 175 °F or a low/medium setting while also limiting use to once per week if possible.23 The number of passes of the flat iron also should be limited to 1 to 2 to reduce breakage. A heat-protectant cream or spray also can be applied to the hair before flat ironing to minimize damage. Applying heat protectant to the hair prior to styling will help minimize heat damage by distributing the heat along the hair fiber surface, avoiding water boiling in the hair shaft and the development of bubble hair leading to damage.24

Chemical Straightening—Similar to how relaxers, perms, and Jheri curl treatments chemically modify hair texture using distinct chemicals yielding different curl patterns, the Brazilian blowout similarly straightens hair using a hair dryer and chemicals applied to hair strands after washing.21-24 Relaxers utilize sodium or guanidine hydroxide for straightening, perms use ammonium thioglycolate for curling, and Jheri curl treatments employ thioglycolates or mercaptans for defined curls. However, these treatments generally are cautioned against due to potential hair damage and recent associations with uterine and breast cancer in Black women. Research has suggested that endocrine disrupters in these products, especially those marketed to Black women, contribute to hormone-related disease processes.25,26 One study found higher concentrations of alkylphenols, the fragrance marker diethyl phthalate, and parabens in relaxers27; however, more research is needed to determine specific chemicals associated with these cancers.

Braids and Locs—Braiding is a technique that involves interlocking 3 or more sections of hair that may or may not be fixated to the scalp like a cornrow,11 and one can utilize extensions or natural hair depending on the desired outcome. Intended for long-term wear (ie, weeks to months), braids minimize breakage and reduce daily styling needs. Two popular styles—cornrows and individual braids—differ in preparation and weaving techniques. Cornrows are an Afro-centric style involving uniform, tightly woven braids that are close to the scalp, creating distinct patterns. Conversely, individual braids weave separate hair sections, offering diverse styling possibilities. Braiding practices should exclude hairline edges—often termed baby hairs—to prevent traction alopecia. Minimal use of edge gel, which helps to tame the vellus hairs at the frontotemporal scalp, as well as mindful weave volume, weight, and length are recommended to avert breakage. Braids that cause pain are too tight, can damage hair, and may cause traction alopecia.11 Braids should not be worn for longer than 3 months at a time and require biweekly washing with diluted shampoo and conditioner. Proper drying by wringing the hair with a microfiber towel is essential to avoid frizz and mold formation.

Locs are a low-maintenance hairstyle considered permanent until cut.28 This style involves twisting, palm rolling, or using tools such as crochet hooks to “lock” the hair. Regular maintenance with retwisting and cleaning is vital for loc health. Increased weight and tight twisting of locs can cause damage to the scalp and hair strands; however, locs are known to increase hair volume over time, often due to the accumulation of hairs that would otherwise have been shed in the telogen phase.28

Wigs and Weaves—Wigs consist of synthetic or human hair that can be strapped to the head with an adjustable band or glued to the scalp depending on the desired style.29 Wigs are removed daily, which allows for quick access to hair for cleansing and moisturizing. In contrast, weaves typically are sewn into the natural hair, which may make it difficult to reach the scalp for cleansing, leading to dryness and product build-up.29 Notably, there is evidence of a relationship between long-term use of weaves and traction alopecia.30

Wigs can have a fully synthetic hair line or lace hair line and can range from very affordable to expensive. When applied correctly, both styles offer an easy way to cover and protect the natural hair by reducing the amount of physical trauma related to daily hair styling. A lace-front wig contains a frontal thin mesh or lace that camouflages the natural frontal hairline.29,30 A risk of lace-front wigs is that they can cause friction alopecia secondary to repeated use of adhesives and repeated friction against the hairline. Generally, wigs and weaves should be cared for as one would care for one’s own hair.

Hair Care in Black Children—Children’s hair care begins with washing the hair and scalp with shampoo, applying conditioner, and detangling as needed.31 After rinsing out the conditioner, a leave-in conditioner can assist with moisture retention and further detangling. The hair is then styled, either wet or dry. Recommendations for hair care practices in Black children include loose hairstyles that do not strain hair roots and nightly removal of root-securing accessories (eg, barrettes, elastic hairbeads). Frequent cornrow styling and friction on chemically straightened hair were identified by a survey as considerable traction alopecia risk factors.32 Thus, educating caregivers on appropriate hair-grooming practices for children is important.

Hair Protection—Proactive steps to reduce hair loss include wearing satin bonnets and/or using satin pillowcases while sleeping regardless of hairstyle. Although evidence is limited, it is thought that satin and silk allow the hair to retain its moisture and natural oils, preventing breakage and friction.33,34 Frequent hair trimming every 2 to 4 months can reduce breakage when doing thermal treatments.35,36 When prolonged or repetitive styles are used, it is encouraged to give the hair a break between styles to recover from the repeated stress. Wearing an intermittent updo or high bun—a hairstyle in which the hair is pulled upward—can prevent breakage by reducing heavy strain on the hair; however, it is important to avoid the use of rubber bands due to friction and risk for tangling of hair strands. Instead, the use of covered elastic ties and/or those without metal is preferred.11 Alternatively, if a polished and neat appearance with slicked-back hair is desired, the practice of tautly pulling the hair is not recommended. Instead, use of an alcohol-free gel is suggested along with a satin scarf wrapped around the hairline to facilitate the setting of the hair in place.11

A common practice to preserve curly hairstyles while sleeping is known as the pineapple method, which protects the hair and aids in preserving the freshness and style of the curls.37 It consists of a loosely tied high ponytail at the top of the head allowing the curls to fall forward. This minimizes frizz and prevents the curls from forming knots.

Conclusion

Hair care recommendations in Black women can be complex due to a wide range of personal care preferences and styling techniques in this population. While evidence in the literature is limited, it still is important for dermatologists to be familiar with the different hair care practices utilized by Black women so they can effectively counsel patients and improve hair health. Knowledge of optimal hair care practices can aid in the prevention of common hair disorders that disproportionately affect this patient population, such as traction alopecia and trichorrhexis nodosa or breakage.

Patients often ask dermatologists how to best care for their specific hair type; however, there are no formal recommendations that apply to the many different hair care practices utilized by Black patients, as hair types in this community can range from wavy to tightly coiled.1 Understanding the the history of hair care in those of African ancestry and various styling practices in this population is necessary to adequately counsel patients and gain trust in the doctor-patient relationship. In this article, we provide an overview of hair care recommendations based on common styling practices in Black women.

A PubMed search of articles indexed for MEDLINE using the terms Black hair care, African American hair management, hair loss prevention, hair care practices, natural hair, natural-hair styles, alopecia, hairdressing, hair breakage, hair fragility, heat-stressed hair, traction alopecia, and natural hair care yielded 305 results; 107 duplicates were identified and removed, leaving 198 articles to be screened for eligibility (ie, English-language studies created in the past 15 years). Sixty-eight full-text articles were screened against the exclusion criteria, which included case reports and case series, articles not focused on Afro-textured hair, and cancer-related hair loss. Three additional fulltext articles were identified via resources from Wayne State University library (Detroit, Michigan) that were not available on PubMed. A total of 29 full-text articles were included in our review.

Background on Hair Care and Styling in African Populations

It is difficult to understand the history of hair in those of African ancestry in the United States.2 Prior to slavery, hair styling was considered a way of identification, classification, and communication as well as a medium through which to connect with the spiritual world in many parts of Africa. Hair-styling practices in Africa included elaborate cornrows, threading, and braiding with many accessories. Notable hair-styling products included natural butters, herbs, and powders to assist with moisture retention. Scarves also were used during this time for ceremonies or protection.3 During the mass enslavement of African populations and their transportation to the Americas by Europeans, slaveholders routinely cut off all the hair of both men and women in order to objectify and erase the culture of African hair styling passed down through generations.4,5 Hair texture then was weaponized to create a caste system in plantation life, in which Black slaves with straight hair textures were granted the “privilege” of domestic work, while those with kinky hair were relegated to arduous manual labor in the fields.4 Years later, during the 1800s, laws were enacted in the United States to prohibit Black women from wearing tightly coiled natural hair in public places.5 Over the next few centuries from the 1800s to the early 2000s, various hair-styling trends such as the use of hot combs, perms, afros, and Jheri curls developed as a means for Black individuals to conform to societal pressure to adopt more European features; however, as time progressed, afros, braids, locs, and natural hair would become more dominant as statements against these same societal pressures.5

The natural hair movement, which emerged in the United States in the 2000s, encouraged Black women to abandon the use of toxic chemical hair straighteners, cultivate healthier hair care practices, disrupt Eurocentric standards of wearing straightened hair, and facilitate self-definition of beauty ideals from the Civil Rights Movement of the 1960s.4,5 It is estimated that between 30% and 70% of all Black women in the United States wear natural hair, including 79% of millennial Black women younger than 30 years6; however, several new trends such as wigs and weaves have grown in popularity since the early 2000s due to mainstream pop culture and improvements in creating natural hairlines.7,8

Key Features of Afro-Textured Hair

Individuals of African descent have the most diverse hair texture phenotypes, ranging from straight to tightly coiled.9 Although hair is chemically similar across various racial groups, differences are noted mainly in the shape of the hair shaft, with elliptical and curved shapes seen in Afrotextured hair. These differences yield more tightly curled strands than in other hair types; however, these features also contribute to fragility, as it creates points of weakness and decreases the tensile strength of the hair shaft.10 This inherent fragility leads to higher rates of hair breakage as well as lower moisture content and slower growth rates, which is why Afro-textured hair requires special care.9

Afro-textured hair generally falls into 2 main categories of the Andre Walker hair typing system: 4A-4C and 3A-3C.11 In the 4A-4C category, hair is described as coily or kinky. Common concerns related to this hair type include dryness and brittleness with increased susceptibility to breakage. The 3A-3C category is described as loose to corkscrew curls, with a common concern of dryness.11,12 Additionally, Loussouarn et al13 established a method to further define natural hair curliness using curve diameter and curl meters on glass plates to measure the curvature of hair strands. This method allows for assessing diversity and range of curliness within various races without relying on ethnic origin.13

Common Hair Care Practices

A description of each hair type and recommended styling practices with their levels of evidence can be found in the eTable.

CT115003095-eTable-part1CT115003095-eTable-part2CT115003095-eTable-part3

Natural Hair—Natural hair is classified as hair that has not been chemically changed by perms, heat, or other straightening treatments.12,14 For natural hair, retaining the moisture of the hair shaft should be the main focus, as moisture loss leads to considerable dryness.14 Generally, it is recommended to wash natural hair once per week or every other week; however, this can change based on hair length and oil production on the scalp. Washing daily may be ideal for shorter hair and monthly for longer hair to help prevent product build-up that can have a drying effect.15 Avoid shampoos that are drying (eg, sulfate and silicone products). The co-washing method also can be utilized, which entails washing the hair with a conditioning cleanser instead of shampoo and conditioner. However, this technique is not meant to completely replace shampoo.16 In fact, a clarifying shampoo is recommended after co-washing 3 or 4 times.16 The use of a hot oil treatment twice per month can promote moisture retention and reduce split-end formation.17 For maintenance between washes, many utilize the liquid, oil, cream (LOC) or liquid, cream, oil (LCO) methods, which describe regimens that utilize water, an oil of choice, and cream such as shea butter to lock in moisture.18 This method can be used as often as needed for dry hair.

Due to the susceptibility of Afro-textured hair to tangle and knot, using a wide-tooth comb, detangling brush, or detangling conditioners is a grade B recommendation for care (eTable). Though not widely documented in the literature, many of our patients have had anecdotal success detangling their hair simply by pulling hair strands apart by hand or “finger detangling” as well as using wide-tooth combs. Although both hair types are healthier in their natural states, kinky hair (type 4A-4C) is extremely fragile and more difficult to manage than less kinky hair (type 3A-3C).18

Special care is needed when detangling due to strands being weaker when wet.19 Detangling should be performed in a retrograde fashion. Deep conditioning can aid in moisture retention and should be performed weekly or biweekly.17-20 Depending on the health of the hair, protein treatments can be considered on a monthly basis to help preserve the cuticle. Styling with braids, twists, or other protective styles can then be completed on an individual basis.

Thermal Straightening—A blowout involves straightening the hair after a wash with the use of a hair dryer.21 This common hair-styling method does not employ the use of chemicals beyond light hair oils and heat-protectant creams or sprays, typically resulting in a less kinky afro or semi-straight hair. Thermal straightening utilizes heat to temporarily straighten hair strands. Flat irons with heated metal plates then can be used after blow-drying the hair to fully straighten and smooth the strands. These processes combined commonly are known as a silk press.21-22

For thermally straightened hair, it is recommended to either wrap the hair around the scalp to keep it flat or pin curl the hair and cover with a bonnet to sleep. Safe straightening techniques with the use of a flat iron include setting the temperature no higher than 175 °F or a low/medium setting while also limiting use to once per week if possible.23 The number of passes of the flat iron also should be limited to 1 to 2 to reduce breakage. A heat-protectant cream or spray also can be applied to the hair before flat ironing to minimize damage. Applying heat protectant to the hair prior to styling will help minimize heat damage by distributing the heat along the hair fiber surface, avoiding water boiling in the hair shaft and the development of bubble hair leading to damage.24

Chemical Straightening—Similar to how relaxers, perms, and Jheri curl treatments chemically modify hair texture using distinct chemicals yielding different curl patterns, the Brazilian blowout similarly straightens hair using a hair dryer and chemicals applied to hair strands after washing.21-24 Relaxers utilize sodium or guanidine hydroxide for straightening, perms use ammonium thioglycolate for curling, and Jheri curl treatments employ thioglycolates or mercaptans for defined curls. However, these treatments generally are cautioned against due to potential hair damage and recent associations with uterine and breast cancer in Black women. Research has suggested that endocrine disrupters in these products, especially those marketed to Black women, contribute to hormone-related disease processes.25,26 One study found higher concentrations of alkylphenols, the fragrance marker diethyl phthalate, and parabens in relaxers27; however, more research is needed to determine specific chemicals associated with these cancers.

Braids and Locs—Braiding is a technique that involves interlocking 3 or more sections of hair that may or may not be fixated to the scalp like a cornrow,11 and one can utilize extensions or natural hair depending on the desired outcome. Intended for long-term wear (ie, weeks to months), braids minimize breakage and reduce daily styling needs. Two popular styles—cornrows and individual braids—differ in preparation and weaving techniques. Cornrows are an Afro-centric style involving uniform, tightly woven braids that are close to the scalp, creating distinct patterns. Conversely, individual braids weave separate hair sections, offering diverse styling possibilities. Braiding practices should exclude hairline edges—often termed baby hairs—to prevent traction alopecia. Minimal use of edge gel, which helps to tame the vellus hairs at the frontotemporal scalp, as well as mindful weave volume, weight, and length are recommended to avert breakage. Braids that cause pain are too tight, can damage hair, and may cause traction alopecia.11 Braids should not be worn for longer than 3 months at a time and require biweekly washing with diluted shampoo and conditioner. Proper drying by wringing the hair with a microfiber towel is essential to avoid frizz and mold formation.

Locs are a low-maintenance hairstyle considered permanent until cut.28 This style involves twisting, palm rolling, or using tools such as crochet hooks to “lock” the hair. Regular maintenance with retwisting and cleaning is vital for loc health. Increased weight and tight twisting of locs can cause damage to the scalp and hair strands; however, locs are known to increase hair volume over time, often due to the accumulation of hairs that would otherwise have been shed in the telogen phase.28

Wigs and Weaves—Wigs consist of synthetic or human hair that can be strapped to the head with an adjustable band or glued to the scalp depending on the desired style.29 Wigs are removed daily, which allows for quick access to hair for cleansing and moisturizing. In contrast, weaves typically are sewn into the natural hair, which may make it difficult to reach the scalp for cleansing, leading to dryness and product build-up.29 Notably, there is evidence of a relationship between long-term use of weaves and traction alopecia.30

Wigs can have a fully synthetic hair line or lace hair line and can range from very affordable to expensive. When applied correctly, both styles offer an easy way to cover and protect the natural hair by reducing the amount of physical trauma related to daily hair styling. A lace-front wig contains a frontal thin mesh or lace that camouflages the natural frontal hairline.29,30 A risk of lace-front wigs is that they can cause friction alopecia secondary to repeated use of adhesives and repeated friction against the hairline. Generally, wigs and weaves should be cared for as one would care for one’s own hair.

Hair Care in Black Children—Children’s hair care begins with washing the hair and scalp with shampoo, applying conditioner, and detangling as needed.31 After rinsing out the conditioner, a leave-in conditioner can assist with moisture retention and further detangling. The hair is then styled, either wet or dry. Recommendations for hair care practices in Black children include loose hairstyles that do not strain hair roots and nightly removal of root-securing accessories (eg, barrettes, elastic hairbeads). Frequent cornrow styling and friction on chemically straightened hair were identified by a survey as considerable traction alopecia risk factors.32 Thus, educating caregivers on appropriate hair-grooming practices for children is important.

Hair Protection—Proactive steps to reduce hair loss include wearing satin bonnets and/or using satin pillowcases while sleeping regardless of hairstyle. Although evidence is limited, it is thought that satin and silk allow the hair to retain its moisture and natural oils, preventing breakage and friction.33,34 Frequent hair trimming every 2 to 4 months can reduce breakage when doing thermal treatments.35,36 When prolonged or repetitive styles are used, it is encouraged to give the hair a break between styles to recover from the repeated stress. Wearing an intermittent updo or high bun—a hairstyle in which the hair is pulled upward—can prevent breakage by reducing heavy strain on the hair; however, it is important to avoid the use of rubber bands due to friction and risk for tangling of hair strands. Instead, the use of covered elastic ties and/or those without metal is preferred.11 Alternatively, if a polished and neat appearance with slicked-back hair is desired, the practice of tautly pulling the hair is not recommended. Instead, use of an alcohol-free gel is suggested along with a satin scarf wrapped around the hairline to facilitate the setting of the hair in place.11

A common practice to preserve curly hairstyles while sleeping is known as the pineapple method, which protects the hair and aids in preserving the freshness and style of the curls.37 It consists of a loosely tied high ponytail at the top of the head allowing the curls to fall forward. This minimizes frizz and prevents the curls from forming knots.

Conclusion

Hair care recommendations in Black women can be complex due to a wide range of personal care preferences and styling techniques in this population. While evidence in the literature is limited, it still is important for dermatologists to be familiar with the different hair care practices utilized by Black women so they can effectively counsel patients and improve hair health. Knowledge of optimal hair care practices can aid in the prevention of common hair disorders that disproportionately affect this patient population, such as traction alopecia and trichorrhexis nodosa or breakage.

References
  1. Hall RR, Francis S, Whitt-Glover M, et al. Hair care practices as a barrier to physical activity in African American women. JAMA Dermatol. 2013;149:310-314. doi:10.1001/jamadermatol.2013.1946
  2. Johnson T, Bankhead T. Hair it is: examining the experiences of Black women with natural hair. Open J Soc Sci. 2014;02:86-100. doi:10.4236/jss.2014.21010
  3. Byrd AD, Tharps LL. Hair Story: Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America. 2nd ed. St Martin’s Griffin; 2014.
  4. Mbilishaka AM, Clemons K, Hudlin M, et al. Don’t get it twisted: untangling the psychology of hair discrimination within Black communities. Am J Orthopsychiatry. 2020;90:590-599. doi:10.1037 /ort0000468
  5. Khumalo NP. On the history of African hair care: more treasures await discovery. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2008;7:231. doi:10.1111/j.1473- 2165.2008.00396.x
  6. Johnson AM, Godsil RD, MacFarlane J, et al. The “good hair” study: explicit and implicit attitudes toward Black women’s hair. Perception Institute. February 2017. Accessed February 11, 2025. https://perception.org/publications/goodhairstudy/
  7. Haskin A, Aguh C. All hairstyles are not created equal: what the dermatologist needs to know about black hairstyling practices and the risk of traction alopecia (TA). J Am Acad Dermatol. 2016;75:606-611. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2016.02.1162
  8. Roseborough IE, McMichael AJ. Hair care practices in African- American patients. Semin Cutan Med Surg. 2009;28:103-108. doi:10.1016/j.sder.2009.04.007
  9. Menkart J Wolfram LJ Mao I. Caucasian hair, Negro hair and wool: similarities and differences. J Soc Cosmet Chem. 1996;17:769-787.
  10. Crawford K, Hernandez C. A review of hair care products for black individuals. Cutis. 2014;93:289-293.
  11. Mayo TT, Callender VD. The art of prevention: it’s too tight-loosen up and let your hair down. Int J Womens Dermatol. 2021;7:174-179. doi:10.1016/j.ijwd.2021.01.019
  12. De Sá Dias TC, Baby AR, Kaneko TM, et al. Relaxing/straightening of Afro-ethnic hair: historical overview. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2007;6:2-5. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2165.2007.00294.x
  13. Loussouarn G, Garcel AL, Lozano I, et al. Worldwide diversity of hair curliness: a new method of assessment. Int J Dermatol. 2007;46 (suppl 1):2-6. doi:10.1111/j.1365-4632.2007.03453.x
  14. Barba C, Mendez S, Marti M, et al. Water content of hair and nails. Thermochimica Acta. 2009;494:136-140. doi:10.1016/j.tca.2009.05.005
  15. Gray J. Hair care and hair care products. Clin Dermatol. 2001;19:227-236. doi:10.1016/s0738-081x(00)00133-4
  16. Gavazzoni Dias MFR. Pro and contra of cleansing conditioners. Skin Appendage Disord. 2019;5:131-134. doi:10.1159/000493588
  17. Gavazzoni Dias MFR. Hair cosmetics: an overview. Int J Trichology. 2015;7:2-15. doi:10.4103/0974-7753.153450
  18. Beal AC, Villarosa L, Abner A. The Black Parenting Book. 1999.
  19. Davis-Sivasothy A. The Science of Black Hair: A Comprehensive Guide to Textured Care. Saga Publishing; 2011.
  20. Robbins CR. The Physical Properties and Cosmetic Behavior of Hair. In: Robbins CR. Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair. 3rd ed. Springer Nature; 1994:299-370. doi:10.1007/978-1-4757-3898-8_8
  21. Weathersby C, McMichael A. Brazilian keratin hair treatment: a review. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2013;12:144-148. doi:10.1111/jocd.12030
  22. Barreto T, Weffort F, Frattini S, et al. Straight to the point: what do we know so far on hair straightening? Skin Appendage Disord. 2021;7:265-271. doi:10.1159/000514367
  23. Dussaud A, Rana B, Lam HT. Progressive hair straightening using an automated flat iron: function of silicones. J Cosmet Sci. 2013;64:119-131.
  24. Zhou Y, Rigoletto R, Koelmel D, et al. The effect of various cosmetic pretreatments on protecting hair from thermal damage by hot flat ironing. J Cosmet Sci. 2011;62:265-282.
  25. Chang CJ, O’Brien KM, Keil AP, et al. Use of straighteners and other hair products and incident uterine cancer. J Natl Cancer Inst. 2022;114:1636-1645. doi:10.1093/jnci/djac165
  26. White AJ, Gregoire AM, Taylor KW, et al. Adolescent use of hair dyes, straighteners and perms in relation to breast cancer risk. Int J Cancer. 2021;148:2255-2263. doi:10.1002/ijc.33413
  27. Helm JS, Nishioka M, Brody JG, et al. Measurement of endocrine disrupting and asthma-associated chemicals in hair products used by Black women. Environ Res. 2018;165:448-458.
  28. Asbeck S, Riley-Prescott C, Glaser E, et al. Afro-ethnic hairstyling trends, risks, and recommendations. Cosmetics. 2022;9:17. doi:10.3390 /cosmetics9010017
  29. Saed S, Ibrahim O, Bergfeld WF. Hair camouflage: a comprehensive review. Int J Womens Dermatol. 2016;2:122-127. doi:10.1016 /j.ijwd.2016.09.002
  30. Billero V, Miteva M. Traction alopecia: the root of the problem. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2018;11:149-159. doi:10.2147/CCID .S137296
  31. Jones NL, Heath CR. Hair at the intersection of dermatology and anthropology: a conversation on race and relationships. Pediatr Dermatol. 2021;38(suppl 2):158-160. doi:10.1111/pde.14721
  32. Rucker Wright D, Gathers R, Kapke A, et al. Hair care practices and their association with scalp and hair disorders in African American girls. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2011;64:253-262. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2010.05.037
  33. Carefoot H. Silk pillowcases for better hair and skin: what to know. The Washington Post. April 6, 2021. Accessed February 10, 2025. https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/wellness/silk-pillowcases-hair-skin-benefits-myths/2021/04/05/a7dcad7c-866a-11eb-82bc-e58213caa38e_story.html
  34. Samrao A, McMichael A, Mirmirani P. Nocturnal traction: techniques used for hair style maintenance while sleeping may be a risk factor for traction alopecia. Skin Appendage Disord. 2021;7:220-223. doi:10.1159/000513088
  35. Callender VD, McMichael AJ, Cohen GF. Medical and surgical therapies for alopecias in black women. Dermatol Ther. 2004;17:164-176. doi:10.1111/j.1396-0296.2004.04017.x
  36. McMichael AJ. Hair breakage in normal and weathered hair: focus on the Black patient. J Investig Dermatol Symp Proc. 2007;12:6-9. doi:10.1038/sj.jidsymp.5650047
  37. Bosley RE, Daveluy S. A primer to natural hair care practices in black patients. Cutis. 2015;95:78-80,106.
References
  1. Hall RR, Francis S, Whitt-Glover M, et al. Hair care practices as a barrier to physical activity in African American women. JAMA Dermatol. 2013;149:310-314. doi:10.1001/jamadermatol.2013.1946
  2. Johnson T, Bankhead T. Hair it is: examining the experiences of Black women with natural hair. Open J Soc Sci. 2014;02:86-100. doi:10.4236/jss.2014.21010
  3. Byrd AD, Tharps LL. Hair Story: Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America. 2nd ed. St Martin’s Griffin; 2014.
  4. Mbilishaka AM, Clemons K, Hudlin M, et al. Don’t get it twisted: untangling the psychology of hair discrimination within Black communities. Am J Orthopsychiatry. 2020;90:590-599. doi:10.1037 /ort0000468
  5. Khumalo NP. On the history of African hair care: more treasures await discovery. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2008;7:231. doi:10.1111/j.1473- 2165.2008.00396.x
  6. Johnson AM, Godsil RD, MacFarlane J, et al. The “good hair” study: explicit and implicit attitudes toward Black women’s hair. Perception Institute. February 2017. Accessed February 11, 2025. https://perception.org/publications/goodhairstudy/
  7. Haskin A, Aguh C. All hairstyles are not created equal: what the dermatologist needs to know about black hairstyling practices and the risk of traction alopecia (TA). J Am Acad Dermatol. 2016;75:606-611. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2016.02.1162
  8. Roseborough IE, McMichael AJ. Hair care practices in African- American patients. Semin Cutan Med Surg. 2009;28:103-108. doi:10.1016/j.sder.2009.04.007
  9. Menkart J Wolfram LJ Mao I. Caucasian hair, Negro hair and wool: similarities and differences. J Soc Cosmet Chem. 1996;17:769-787.
  10. Crawford K, Hernandez C. A review of hair care products for black individuals. Cutis. 2014;93:289-293.
  11. Mayo TT, Callender VD. The art of prevention: it’s too tight-loosen up and let your hair down. Int J Womens Dermatol. 2021;7:174-179. doi:10.1016/j.ijwd.2021.01.019
  12. De Sá Dias TC, Baby AR, Kaneko TM, et al. Relaxing/straightening of Afro-ethnic hair: historical overview. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2007;6:2-5. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2165.2007.00294.x
  13. Loussouarn G, Garcel AL, Lozano I, et al. Worldwide diversity of hair curliness: a new method of assessment. Int J Dermatol. 2007;46 (suppl 1):2-6. doi:10.1111/j.1365-4632.2007.03453.x
  14. Barba C, Mendez S, Marti M, et al. Water content of hair and nails. Thermochimica Acta. 2009;494:136-140. doi:10.1016/j.tca.2009.05.005
  15. Gray J. Hair care and hair care products. Clin Dermatol. 2001;19:227-236. doi:10.1016/s0738-081x(00)00133-4
  16. Gavazzoni Dias MFR. Pro and contra of cleansing conditioners. Skin Appendage Disord. 2019;5:131-134. doi:10.1159/000493588
  17. Gavazzoni Dias MFR. Hair cosmetics: an overview. Int J Trichology. 2015;7:2-15. doi:10.4103/0974-7753.153450
  18. Beal AC, Villarosa L, Abner A. The Black Parenting Book. 1999.
  19. Davis-Sivasothy A. The Science of Black Hair: A Comprehensive Guide to Textured Care. Saga Publishing; 2011.
  20. Robbins CR. The Physical Properties and Cosmetic Behavior of Hair. In: Robbins CR. Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair. 3rd ed. Springer Nature; 1994:299-370. doi:10.1007/978-1-4757-3898-8_8
  21. Weathersby C, McMichael A. Brazilian keratin hair treatment: a review. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2013;12:144-148. doi:10.1111/jocd.12030
  22. Barreto T, Weffort F, Frattini S, et al. Straight to the point: what do we know so far on hair straightening? Skin Appendage Disord. 2021;7:265-271. doi:10.1159/000514367
  23. Dussaud A, Rana B, Lam HT. Progressive hair straightening using an automated flat iron: function of silicones. J Cosmet Sci. 2013;64:119-131.
  24. Zhou Y, Rigoletto R, Koelmel D, et al. The effect of various cosmetic pretreatments on protecting hair from thermal damage by hot flat ironing. J Cosmet Sci. 2011;62:265-282.
  25. Chang CJ, O’Brien KM, Keil AP, et al. Use of straighteners and other hair products and incident uterine cancer. J Natl Cancer Inst. 2022;114:1636-1645. doi:10.1093/jnci/djac165
  26. White AJ, Gregoire AM, Taylor KW, et al. Adolescent use of hair dyes, straighteners and perms in relation to breast cancer risk. Int J Cancer. 2021;148:2255-2263. doi:10.1002/ijc.33413
  27. Helm JS, Nishioka M, Brody JG, et al. Measurement of endocrine disrupting and asthma-associated chemicals in hair products used by Black women. Environ Res. 2018;165:448-458.
  28. Asbeck S, Riley-Prescott C, Glaser E, et al. Afro-ethnic hairstyling trends, risks, and recommendations. Cosmetics. 2022;9:17. doi:10.3390 /cosmetics9010017
  29. Saed S, Ibrahim O, Bergfeld WF. Hair camouflage: a comprehensive review. Int J Womens Dermatol. 2016;2:122-127. doi:10.1016 /j.ijwd.2016.09.002
  30. Billero V, Miteva M. Traction alopecia: the root of the problem. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2018;11:149-159. doi:10.2147/CCID .S137296
  31. Jones NL, Heath CR. Hair at the intersection of dermatology and anthropology: a conversation on race and relationships. Pediatr Dermatol. 2021;38(suppl 2):158-160. doi:10.1111/pde.14721
  32. Rucker Wright D, Gathers R, Kapke A, et al. Hair care practices and their association with scalp and hair disorders in African American girls. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2011;64:253-262. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2010.05.037
  33. Carefoot H. Silk pillowcases for better hair and skin: what to know. The Washington Post. April 6, 2021. Accessed February 10, 2025. https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/wellness/silk-pillowcases-hair-skin-benefits-myths/2021/04/05/a7dcad7c-866a-11eb-82bc-e58213caa38e_story.html
  34. Samrao A, McMichael A, Mirmirani P. Nocturnal traction: techniques used for hair style maintenance while sleeping may be a risk factor for traction alopecia. Skin Appendage Disord. 2021;7:220-223. doi:10.1159/000513088
  35. Callender VD, McMichael AJ, Cohen GF. Medical and surgical therapies for alopecias in black women. Dermatol Ther. 2004;17:164-176. doi:10.1111/j.1396-0296.2004.04017.x
  36. McMichael AJ. Hair breakage in normal and weathered hair: focus on the Black patient. J Investig Dermatol Symp Proc. 2007;12:6-9. doi:10.1038/sj.jidsymp.5650047
  37. Bosley RE, Daveluy S. A primer to natural hair care practices in black patients. Cutis. 2015;95:78-80,106.
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Cutis - 115(3)
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Cutis - 115(3)
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95-98
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Historical Perspectives on Hair Care and Common Styling Practices in Black Women

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Historical Perspectives on Hair Care and Common Styling Practices in Black Women

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PRACTICE POINTS

  • There is a dearth in understanding of hair care practices in Black women among health care professionals.
  • Increased knowledge and cultural understanding of past and present hair care practices in Black women enhances patient care.
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