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‘Clean’ and ‘natural’ beauty products
Clean beauty products have taken over the skin care market. A wave of new indie brands has entered the skin care market, some of which have garnered fame from bloggers and celebrities and via social media. There has also been a shift towards larger, more-established brands developing and marketing cleaner alternatives to their established skin care lines.
As consumers, physicians, and parents, we all want nontoxic products. However, as highlighted in a recent editorial by Bruce Brod, MD, and Courtney Blair Rubin, MD, of the department of dermatology at the University of Pennsylvania, Philadelphia, the Food and Drug Administration has “failed to define clean and natural, leaving these labels open to interpretation by nondermatologist retailers, bloggers, and celebrities who have set out to define clean beauty for themselves” (JAMA Dermatol. 2019 Sep 25. doi: 10.1001/jamadermatol.2019.2724). This vague interpretation has given rise to a billion-dollar industry of products that is unregulated and may, in fact, not be safer than other products.
For the last decade, to skin care products have also been on the rise. Some of the ingredients deemed toxic include petrolatum and parabens, which have good safety profiles and clinically, are among the least allergenic ingredients in skin products, particularly among patients with the most sensitive skin. In contrast, botanical oils, essential oils, and plant-based natural fragrances are chronic culprits of contact sensitivities and severe skin allergies.
I encourage all dermatologists to read this viewpoint as this topic will inevitably be a point of discussion with many patients. Large studies and expert consensus of safety profiles of chemicals – particularly those deemed carcinogenic, endocrine disruptors, and environmental hazards – are often lacking, leading to confusion for consumers. Our professional organizations and industry should be leading the efforts to establish standardized definitions and FDA regulations of skin care products deemed clean and natural so that the differentiation between marketing taglines and true, substantiated FDA-supported claims are clearer for consumers.
Dr. Talakoub and Dr. Wesley are cocontributors to this column. Dr. Talakoub is in private practice in McLean, Va. Dr. Wesley practices dermatology in Beverly Hills, Calif. This month’s column is by Dr. Talakoub. Write to them at [email protected]. They had no relevant disclosures.
Clean beauty products have taken over the skin care market. A wave of new indie brands has entered the skin care market, some of which have garnered fame from bloggers and celebrities and via social media. There has also been a shift towards larger, more-established brands developing and marketing cleaner alternatives to their established skin care lines.
As consumers, physicians, and parents, we all want nontoxic products. However, as highlighted in a recent editorial by Bruce Brod, MD, and Courtney Blair Rubin, MD, of the department of dermatology at the University of Pennsylvania, Philadelphia, the Food and Drug Administration has “failed to define clean and natural, leaving these labels open to interpretation by nondermatologist retailers, bloggers, and celebrities who have set out to define clean beauty for themselves” (JAMA Dermatol. 2019 Sep 25. doi: 10.1001/jamadermatol.2019.2724). This vague interpretation has given rise to a billion-dollar industry of products that is unregulated and may, in fact, not be safer than other products.
For the last decade, to skin care products have also been on the rise. Some of the ingredients deemed toxic include petrolatum and parabens, which have good safety profiles and clinically, are among the least allergenic ingredients in skin products, particularly among patients with the most sensitive skin. In contrast, botanical oils, essential oils, and plant-based natural fragrances are chronic culprits of contact sensitivities and severe skin allergies.
I encourage all dermatologists to read this viewpoint as this topic will inevitably be a point of discussion with many patients. Large studies and expert consensus of safety profiles of chemicals – particularly those deemed carcinogenic, endocrine disruptors, and environmental hazards – are often lacking, leading to confusion for consumers. Our professional organizations and industry should be leading the efforts to establish standardized definitions and FDA regulations of skin care products deemed clean and natural so that the differentiation between marketing taglines and true, substantiated FDA-supported claims are clearer for consumers.
Dr. Talakoub and Dr. Wesley are cocontributors to this column. Dr. Talakoub is in private practice in McLean, Va. Dr. Wesley practices dermatology in Beverly Hills, Calif. This month’s column is by Dr. Talakoub. Write to them at [email protected]. They had no relevant disclosures.
Clean beauty products have taken over the skin care market. A wave of new indie brands has entered the skin care market, some of which have garnered fame from bloggers and celebrities and via social media. There has also been a shift towards larger, more-established brands developing and marketing cleaner alternatives to their established skin care lines.
As consumers, physicians, and parents, we all want nontoxic products. However, as highlighted in a recent editorial by Bruce Brod, MD, and Courtney Blair Rubin, MD, of the department of dermatology at the University of Pennsylvania, Philadelphia, the Food and Drug Administration has “failed to define clean and natural, leaving these labels open to interpretation by nondermatologist retailers, bloggers, and celebrities who have set out to define clean beauty for themselves” (JAMA Dermatol. 2019 Sep 25. doi: 10.1001/jamadermatol.2019.2724). This vague interpretation has given rise to a billion-dollar industry of products that is unregulated and may, in fact, not be safer than other products.
For the last decade, to skin care products have also been on the rise. Some of the ingredients deemed toxic include petrolatum and parabens, which have good safety profiles and clinically, are among the least allergenic ingredients in skin products, particularly among patients with the most sensitive skin. In contrast, botanical oils, essential oils, and plant-based natural fragrances are chronic culprits of contact sensitivities and severe skin allergies.
I encourage all dermatologists to read this viewpoint as this topic will inevitably be a point of discussion with many patients. Large studies and expert consensus of safety profiles of chemicals – particularly those deemed carcinogenic, endocrine disruptors, and environmental hazards – are often lacking, leading to confusion for consumers. Our professional organizations and industry should be leading the efforts to establish standardized definitions and FDA regulations of skin care products deemed clean and natural so that the differentiation between marketing taglines and true, substantiated FDA-supported claims are clearer for consumers.
Dr. Talakoub and Dr. Wesley are cocontributors to this column. Dr. Talakoub is in private practice in McLean, Va. Dr. Wesley practices dermatology in Beverly Hills, Calif. This month’s column is by Dr. Talakoub. Write to them at [email protected]. They had no relevant disclosures.
Holy basil: A member of the Ocimum family
At least three particular species in the Ocimum family have been associated with a wide array of health benefits. This column will briefly discuss the as an “adaptogen” to counter life’s stresses. It is called “holy basil” because it is sacred to the Hindus who plant it around shrines.
O. sanctum (O. tenuiflorum)
Known popularly as holy basil in English and Tulsi in Sanskrit (in which the translation is “the incomparable one”), O. tenuiflorum is used for multiple indications in traditional medical practices in Southeast Asia, including Ayurveda, Siddha, and Unani.1,2
In Ayurvedic medicine, the leaves, stem, flower, root, seeds, and whole plant of O. sanctum have been used to treat various ailments, including skin diseases. Eugenol (1-hydroxy-2-methoxy-4-allylbenzene) is its primary constituent and the wide variety of biological activities associated with the plant (including antifertility, anticancer, antidiabetic, antifungal, antimicrobial, hepatoprotective, cardioprotective, antiemetic, antispasmodic, analgesic, adaptogenic, and diaphoretic) are ascribed to it.3
O. sanctum and its water-soluble flavonoids, orientin, and vicenin – as well as eugenol, its main nonpolar component – have been shown in animal studies and a few small clinical trials to act against various radiation-induced illnesses. Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and metal-chelating activity have been linked to these benefits.4 Indeed, multiple studies have demonstrated that O. sanctum exerts anti-inflammatory, analgesic, and immunomodulatory activities, among other beneficial functions, with phytochemical constituents such as eugenol, rosmarinic acid, apigenin, myrtenal, luteolin, beta-sitosterol, and carnosic acid playing critical roles.2
Several animal studies have also demonstrated that O. sanctum imparts wound-healing activity, such as increasing the rates of epithelialization and wound contraction and augmenting granulation tissue and hydroxyproline levels, with some evidence of benefits for also healing keloids and hypertrophic scars.1,5
Yamani et al. studied the antimicrobial activity of the flower spikes, leaves, and essential oil of O. sanctum grown in Australia in 2016. They found that, at concentrations of 4.5% and 2.25%, the oils prevented the growth of Staphylococcus aureus (including methicillin-resistant S. aureus) and Escherichia coli, and partly hindered the growth of Pseudomonas aeruginosa. Further, the investigators identified camphor, eucalyptol, and eugenol as the primary ingredients, among 54 observed, accountable for the antimicrobial activity. They concluded that O. sanctum essential oil has potential as a topical antimicrobial agent.6
A 2015 investigation into the antioxidant activities of 10 essential oils and 10 absolutes extracted from Thai aromatic plants revealed that O. sanctum was among four of the essential oils to display robust antioxidant activity in the 2,2-diphenyl-1-1-picrylhydrazyl and thiobarbituric acid reactive species tests. The study by Leelapornpisid et al. suggested that holy basil oil, along with ginger oil, Wan-sao-long leaf oil, and lemongrass oil, appear to have potential for use as natural antioxidants in cosmetic formulations aimed at preventing or treating cutaneous aging.7
O. gratissimum
O. gratissimum has been used in traditional medicine to treat a range of conditions, including skin and gastrointestinal infections and wounds.8
In 2007, Ajose reported on the results of history questionnaires filed by patients at a dermatology clinic in Lagos, Nigeria and oral interviews with vendors and prescribers of herbal formulations at busy markets in Lagos and Ijebu-Ode in southwest Nigeria, indicating that O. gratissimum was 1 of the 38 plants used for dermatologic purposes.9
In 2009, Nweze and Eze demonstrated that the ethanolic extract of the leaves of O. gratissimum displayed antibacterial activity, supporting its use in traditional medicine as well as a food spice that does not undermine conventional antibiotics, as is thought in some rural communities throughout the world.8O. gratissimum is a key ingredient of a topical cream formulation that is one component of a complete skin care line recently found to be effective in treating mild to moderate acne. The line includes an oral supplement for males, another for females, and the topical cream, which contains O. gratissimum and keratolytic ingredients (that is, salicylic acid, gluconolactone, and complex alpha-hydroxy acids). In the double-blind clinical trial, most patients were found to have exhibited satisfactory clinical responses according to the Global Acne Grading System.10
In 2015, Keziah et al. found that topical creams formulated with O. gratissimum and Lantana camara crude extracts and fractions were effective as mosquito repellents and might serve as natural alternatives to conventional products.11
O. basilicum
Also known as great basil or St. Joseph’s Wort, O. basilicum is native to tropical regions and is found abundantly from Southeast Asia to Africa. In a 2011 single-blind study, Rasul and Akhtar tested a formulation containing 3% basil in the inner aqueous phase and a base devoid of extract. The formulation exhibited significant effects in skin moisturization, and both creams conferred measurable benefits in stemming transepidermal water loss. Skin roughness, scaliness, smoothness, and wrinkles appeared to improve with the formulation as well. The researchers concluded that topically applied O. basilicum can deliver antiaging benefits.12
Antioxidant activity from myriad constituents, including quercetin, kaempferol, caffeic acid, rosmarinic acid, ferulic acid, rutin, and catechin, among others, has been cited for the potential of O. basilicum to confer an antiaging result.13,14
Conclusion
Various species in the Ocimum family have been used in traditional medicine for many years, with several reputed to impart dermatologic benefits. There are compelling reasons to continue to research these species in the continuing search to develop more effective topical formulations in the dermatologic armamentarium. As is often the case with botanical agents, we need to see much more evidence and clinical trials to establish if and how appropriate these Ocimum species are in the skin care realm. The word “adaptogen” is starting to be used frequently in the cosmeceutical world. Holy basil is an adaptogen.
Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur who practices in Miami. She founded the Cosmetic Dermatology Center at the University of Miami in 1997. Dr. Baumann wrote two textbooks: “Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice” (New York: McGraw-Hill, 2002) and “Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients” (New York: McGraw-Hill, 2014), and a New York Times Best Sellers book for consumers, “The Skin Type Solution” (New York: Bantam Dell, 2006). Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Evolus, Galderma, and Revance. She is the founder and CEO of Skin Type Solutions Franchise Systems. Write to her at [email protected]
References
1. Rupani R, Chavez A. Clin Dermatol. 2018 May-Jun;36(3):306-9.
2. Baliga MS et al. Nutr Cancer. 2013;65 Suppl 1:26-35.
3. Prakash P, Gupta N. Indian J Physiol Pharmacol. 2005 Apr;49(2):125-31.
4. Baliga MS et al. J Cancer Res Ther. 2016 Jan-Mar;12(1):20-7.
5. Pazyar N et al. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2014;27(6):303-10.
6. Yamani HA et al. Front Microbiol. 2016 May 17;7:681.
7. Leelapornpisid P et al. J Cosmet Sci. 2015 Jul-Aug:66(4):219-31.
8. Nweze EI, Eze EE. BMC Complement Altern Med. 2009 Sep 28;9:37.
9. Ajose FOA. Int J Dermatol. 2007 Oct;46 Suppl 1:48-55.
10. Tolino E et al. G Ital Dermatol Venereol. 2018 Dec;153(6):866-871.
11. Keziah EA et al. J Insect Sci. 2015 Apr 15. doi: 10.1093/jisesa/iev025.
12. Rasul A, Akhtar N. Daru. 2011;19(5):344-50.
13. Jadoon S et al. Oxid Med Cell Longev. 2015;2015:709628.
14. Marwat SK et al. Asian J Chem. 2011;23(9):3773-82.
At least three particular species in the Ocimum family have been associated with a wide array of health benefits. This column will briefly discuss the as an “adaptogen” to counter life’s stresses. It is called “holy basil” because it is sacred to the Hindus who plant it around shrines.
O. sanctum (O. tenuiflorum)
Known popularly as holy basil in English and Tulsi in Sanskrit (in which the translation is “the incomparable one”), O. tenuiflorum is used for multiple indications in traditional medical practices in Southeast Asia, including Ayurveda, Siddha, and Unani.1,2
In Ayurvedic medicine, the leaves, stem, flower, root, seeds, and whole plant of O. sanctum have been used to treat various ailments, including skin diseases. Eugenol (1-hydroxy-2-methoxy-4-allylbenzene) is its primary constituent and the wide variety of biological activities associated with the plant (including antifertility, anticancer, antidiabetic, antifungal, antimicrobial, hepatoprotective, cardioprotective, antiemetic, antispasmodic, analgesic, adaptogenic, and diaphoretic) are ascribed to it.3
O. sanctum and its water-soluble flavonoids, orientin, and vicenin – as well as eugenol, its main nonpolar component – have been shown in animal studies and a few small clinical trials to act against various radiation-induced illnesses. Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and metal-chelating activity have been linked to these benefits.4 Indeed, multiple studies have demonstrated that O. sanctum exerts anti-inflammatory, analgesic, and immunomodulatory activities, among other beneficial functions, with phytochemical constituents such as eugenol, rosmarinic acid, apigenin, myrtenal, luteolin, beta-sitosterol, and carnosic acid playing critical roles.2
Several animal studies have also demonstrated that O. sanctum imparts wound-healing activity, such as increasing the rates of epithelialization and wound contraction and augmenting granulation tissue and hydroxyproline levels, with some evidence of benefits for also healing keloids and hypertrophic scars.1,5
Yamani et al. studied the antimicrobial activity of the flower spikes, leaves, and essential oil of O. sanctum grown in Australia in 2016. They found that, at concentrations of 4.5% and 2.25%, the oils prevented the growth of Staphylococcus aureus (including methicillin-resistant S. aureus) and Escherichia coli, and partly hindered the growth of Pseudomonas aeruginosa. Further, the investigators identified camphor, eucalyptol, and eugenol as the primary ingredients, among 54 observed, accountable for the antimicrobial activity. They concluded that O. sanctum essential oil has potential as a topical antimicrobial agent.6
A 2015 investigation into the antioxidant activities of 10 essential oils and 10 absolutes extracted from Thai aromatic plants revealed that O. sanctum was among four of the essential oils to display robust antioxidant activity in the 2,2-diphenyl-1-1-picrylhydrazyl and thiobarbituric acid reactive species tests. The study by Leelapornpisid et al. suggested that holy basil oil, along with ginger oil, Wan-sao-long leaf oil, and lemongrass oil, appear to have potential for use as natural antioxidants in cosmetic formulations aimed at preventing or treating cutaneous aging.7
O. gratissimum
O. gratissimum has been used in traditional medicine to treat a range of conditions, including skin and gastrointestinal infections and wounds.8
In 2007, Ajose reported on the results of history questionnaires filed by patients at a dermatology clinic in Lagos, Nigeria and oral interviews with vendors and prescribers of herbal formulations at busy markets in Lagos and Ijebu-Ode in southwest Nigeria, indicating that O. gratissimum was 1 of the 38 plants used for dermatologic purposes.9
In 2009, Nweze and Eze demonstrated that the ethanolic extract of the leaves of O. gratissimum displayed antibacterial activity, supporting its use in traditional medicine as well as a food spice that does not undermine conventional antibiotics, as is thought in some rural communities throughout the world.8O. gratissimum is a key ingredient of a topical cream formulation that is one component of a complete skin care line recently found to be effective in treating mild to moderate acne. The line includes an oral supplement for males, another for females, and the topical cream, which contains O. gratissimum and keratolytic ingredients (that is, salicylic acid, gluconolactone, and complex alpha-hydroxy acids). In the double-blind clinical trial, most patients were found to have exhibited satisfactory clinical responses according to the Global Acne Grading System.10
In 2015, Keziah et al. found that topical creams formulated with O. gratissimum and Lantana camara crude extracts and fractions were effective as mosquito repellents and might serve as natural alternatives to conventional products.11
O. basilicum
Also known as great basil or St. Joseph’s Wort, O. basilicum is native to tropical regions and is found abundantly from Southeast Asia to Africa. In a 2011 single-blind study, Rasul and Akhtar tested a formulation containing 3% basil in the inner aqueous phase and a base devoid of extract. The formulation exhibited significant effects in skin moisturization, and both creams conferred measurable benefits in stemming transepidermal water loss. Skin roughness, scaliness, smoothness, and wrinkles appeared to improve with the formulation as well. The researchers concluded that topically applied O. basilicum can deliver antiaging benefits.12
Antioxidant activity from myriad constituents, including quercetin, kaempferol, caffeic acid, rosmarinic acid, ferulic acid, rutin, and catechin, among others, has been cited for the potential of O. basilicum to confer an antiaging result.13,14
Conclusion
Various species in the Ocimum family have been used in traditional medicine for many years, with several reputed to impart dermatologic benefits. There are compelling reasons to continue to research these species in the continuing search to develop more effective topical formulations in the dermatologic armamentarium. As is often the case with botanical agents, we need to see much more evidence and clinical trials to establish if and how appropriate these Ocimum species are in the skin care realm. The word “adaptogen” is starting to be used frequently in the cosmeceutical world. Holy basil is an adaptogen.
Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur who practices in Miami. She founded the Cosmetic Dermatology Center at the University of Miami in 1997. Dr. Baumann wrote two textbooks: “Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice” (New York: McGraw-Hill, 2002) and “Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients” (New York: McGraw-Hill, 2014), and a New York Times Best Sellers book for consumers, “The Skin Type Solution” (New York: Bantam Dell, 2006). Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Evolus, Galderma, and Revance. She is the founder and CEO of Skin Type Solutions Franchise Systems. Write to her at [email protected]
References
1. Rupani R, Chavez A. Clin Dermatol. 2018 May-Jun;36(3):306-9.
2. Baliga MS et al. Nutr Cancer. 2013;65 Suppl 1:26-35.
3. Prakash P, Gupta N. Indian J Physiol Pharmacol. 2005 Apr;49(2):125-31.
4. Baliga MS et al. J Cancer Res Ther. 2016 Jan-Mar;12(1):20-7.
5. Pazyar N et al. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2014;27(6):303-10.
6. Yamani HA et al. Front Microbiol. 2016 May 17;7:681.
7. Leelapornpisid P et al. J Cosmet Sci. 2015 Jul-Aug:66(4):219-31.
8. Nweze EI, Eze EE. BMC Complement Altern Med. 2009 Sep 28;9:37.
9. Ajose FOA. Int J Dermatol. 2007 Oct;46 Suppl 1:48-55.
10. Tolino E et al. G Ital Dermatol Venereol. 2018 Dec;153(6):866-871.
11. Keziah EA et al. J Insect Sci. 2015 Apr 15. doi: 10.1093/jisesa/iev025.
12. Rasul A, Akhtar N. Daru. 2011;19(5):344-50.
13. Jadoon S et al. Oxid Med Cell Longev. 2015;2015:709628.
14. Marwat SK et al. Asian J Chem. 2011;23(9):3773-82.
At least three particular species in the Ocimum family have been associated with a wide array of health benefits. This column will briefly discuss the as an “adaptogen” to counter life’s stresses. It is called “holy basil” because it is sacred to the Hindus who plant it around shrines.
O. sanctum (O. tenuiflorum)
Known popularly as holy basil in English and Tulsi in Sanskrit (in which the translation is “the incomparable one”), O. tenuiflorum is used for multiple indications in traditional medical practices in Southeast Asia, including Ayurveda, Siddha, and Unani.1,2
In Ayurvedic medicine, the leaves, stem, flower, root, seeds, and whole plant of O. sanctum have been used to treat various ailments, including skin diseases. Eugenol (1-hydroxy-2-methoxy-4-allylbenzene) is its primary constituent and the wide variety of biological activities associated with the plant (including antifertility, anticancer, antidiabetic, antifungal, antimicrobial, hepatoprotective, cardioprotective, antiemetic, antispasmodic, analgesic, adaptogenic, and diaphoretic) are ascribed to it.3
O. sanctum and its water-soluble flavonoids, orientin, and vicenin – as well as eugenol, its main nonpolar component – have been shown in animal studies and a few small clinical trials to act against various radiation-induced illnesses. Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and metal-chelating activity have been linked to these benefits.4 Indeed, multiple studies have demonstrated that O. sanctum exerts anti-inflammatory, analgesic, and immunomodulatory activities, among other beneficial functions, with phytochemical constituents such as eugenol, rosmarinic acid, apigenin, myrtenal, luteolin, beta-sitosterol, and carnosic acid playing critical roles.2
Several animal studies have also demonstrated that O. sanctum imparts wound-healing activity, such as increasing the rates of epithelialization and wound contraction and augmenting granulation tissue and hydroxyproline levels, with some evidence of benefits for also healing keloids and hypertrophic scars.1,5
Yamani et al. studied the antimicrobial activity of the flower spikes, leaves, and essential oil of O. sanctum grown in Australia in 2016. They found that, at concentrations of 4.5% and 2.25%, the oils prevented the growth of Staphylococcus aureus (including methicillin-resistant S. aureus) and Escherichia coli, and partly hindered the growth of Pseudomonas aeruginosa. Further, the investigators identified camphor, eucalyptol, and eugenol as the primary ingredients, among 54 observed, accountable for the antimicrobial activity. They concluded that O. sanctum essential oil has potential as a topical antimicrobial agent.6
A 2015 investigation into the antioxidant activities of 10 essential oils and 10 absolutes extracted from Thai aromatic plants revealed that O. sanctum was among four of the essential oils to display robust antioxidant activity in the 2,2-diphenyl-1-1-picrylhydrazyl and thiobarbituric acid reactive species tests. The study by Leelapornpisid et al. suggested that holy basil oil, along with ginger oil, Wan-sao-long leaf oil, and lemongrass oil, appear to have potential for use as natural antioxidants in cosmetic formulations aimed at preventing or treating cutaneous aging.7
O. gratissimum
O. gratissimum has been used in traditional medicine to treat a range of conditions, including skin and gastrointestinal infections and wounds.8
In 2007, Ajose reported on the results of history questionnaires filed by patients at a dermatology clinic in Lagos, Nigeria and oral interviews with vendors and prescribers of herbal formulations at busy markets in Lagos and Ijebu-Ode in southwest Nigeria, indicating that O. gratissimum was 1 of the 38 plants used for dermatologic purposes.9
In 2009, Nweze and Eze demonstrated that the ethanolic extract of the leaves of O. gratissimum displayed antibacterial activity, supporting its use in traditional medicine as well as a food spice that does not undermine conventional antibiotics, as is thought in some rural communities throughout the world.8O. gratissimum is a key ingredient of a topical cream formulation that is one component of a complete skin care line recently found to be effective in treating mild to moderate acne. The line includes an oral supplement for males, another for females, and the topical cream, which contains O. gratissimum and keratolytic ingredients (that is, salicylic acid, gluconolactone, and complex alpha-hydroxy acids). In the double-blind clinical trial, most patients were found to have exhibited satisfactory clinical responses according to the Global Acne Grading System.10
In 2015, Keziah et al. found that topical creams formulated with O. gratissimum and Lantana camara crude extracts and fractions were effective as mosquito repellents and might serve as natural alternatives to conventional products.11
O. basilicum
Also known as great basil or St. Joseph’s Wort, O. basilicum is native to tropical regions and is found abundantly from Southeast Asia to Africa. In a 2011 single-blind study, Rasul and Akhtar tested a formulation containing 3% basil in the inner aqueous phase and a base devoid of extract. The formulation exhibited significant effects in skin moisturization, and both creams conferred measurable benefits in stemming transepidermal water loss. Skin roughness, scaliness, smoothness, and wrinkles appeared to improve with the formulation as well. The researchers concluded that topically applied O. basilicum can deliver antiaging benefits.12
Antioxidant activity from myriad constituents, including quercetin, kaempferol, caffeic acid, rosmarinic acid, ferulic acid, rutin, and catechin, among others, has been cited for the potential of O. basilicum to confer an antiaging result.13,14
Conclusion
Various species in the Ocimum family have been used in traditional medicine for many years, with several reputed to impart dermatologic benefits. There are compelling reasons to continue to research these species in the continuing search to develop more effective topical formulations in the dermatologic armamentarium. As is often the case with botanical agents, we need to see much more evidence and clinical trials to establish if and how appropriate these Ocimum species are in the skin care realm. The word “adaptogen” is starting to be used frequently in the cosmeceutical world. Holy basil is an adaptogen.
Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur who practices in Miami. She founded the Cosmetic Dermatology Center at the University of Miami in 1997. Dr. Baumann wrote two textbooks: “Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice” (New York: McGraw-Hill, 2002) and “Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients” (New York: McGraw-Hill, 2014), and a New York Times Best Sellers book for consumers, “The Skin Type Solution” (New York: Bantam Dell, 2006). Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Evolus, Galderma, and Revance. She is the founder and CEO of Skin Type Solutions Franchise Systems. Write to her at [email protected]
References
1. Rupani R, Chavez A. Clin Dermatol. 2018 May-Jun;36(3):306-9.
2. Baliga MS et al. Nutr Cancer. 2013;65 Suppl 1:26-35.
3. Prakash P, Gupta N. Indian J Physiol Pharmacol. 2005 Apr;49(2):125-31.
4. Baliga MS et al. J Cancer Res Ther. 2016 Jan-Mar;12(1):20-7.
5. Pazyar N et al. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2014;27(6):303-10.
6. Yamani HA et al. Front Microbiol. 2016 May 17;7:681.
7. Leelapornpisid P et al. J Cosmet Sci. 2015 Jul-Aug:66(4):219-31.
8. Nweze EI, Eze EE. BMC Complement Altern Med. 2009 Sep 28;9:37.
9. Ajose FOA. Int J Dermatol. 2007 Oct;46 Suppl 1:48-55.
10. Tolino E et al. G Ital Dermatol Venereol. 2018 Dec;153(6):866-871.
11. Keziah EA et al. J Insect Sci. 2015 Apr 15. doi: 10.1093/jisesa/iev025.
12. Rasul A, Akhtar N. Daru. 2011;19(5):344-50.
13. Jadoon S et al. Oxid Med Cell Longev. 2015;2015:709628.
14. Marwat SK et al. Asian J Chem. 2011;23(9):3773-82.
Combined treatments provide control of pseudofolliculitis barbae in women
NEW YORK – For has been found highly effective, Wendy Roberts, MD, reported at the Skin of Color Update 2019.
“We didn’t have great treatments for this problem in the past, but the technology has evolved, and you can now get most women clear,” Dr. Roberts, a dermatologist who practices in Rancho Mirage, Calif., said at the meeting.
This approach is appropriate in all women, but Dr. Roberts focused on her experience with black patients, for whom an antioxidant cream is added to address the inflammatory-associated hyperpigmentation that often accompanies pseudofolliculitis barbae, a chronic inflammatory skin condition typically characterized by small, painful papules and pustules.
Start with microdermabrasion to treat the hypertrophic hair follicles and address keratin plugs, Dr. Roberts said. The microdermabrasion smooths the skin and increases penetration of subsequent creams and topics, she said.
“In the same session, I treat with Nd-YAG 1064 nm laser using short pulses,” she noted. For black women, she makes four passes with the laser at a level of moderate intensity. For those with lighter skin, she might perform as many as six passes with the laser set higher.
The microdermabrasion is repeated monthly for three or four treatments, but can be extended for those with persistent symptoms, Dr. Roberts pointed out. She presented a case of a patient who required seven treatments to achieve a satisfactory response.
Patients are instructed to avoid hair plucking and over the course of treatment nightly topical tretinoin is recommended for maintenance. Regular use of emollients is also recommended. For black women who have developed hyperpigmentation as a complication of pseudofolliculitis barbae, Dr. Roberts prescribes a lightening cream.
“I have pretty much moved away from hydroquinone,” said Dr. Roberts, explaining that she has achieved better results with topical cysteamine, a product that she has been using for about 3 years.
In outlining her treatment strategy, she employed case studies of two black women, both of whom achieved resolution of the problem and were satisfied with the results. She said that the same approach is suitable for women of other racial and ethnic groups.
Most commonly seen in black men, pseudofolliculitis barbae – also known as razor bumps – can occur as a complication of shaving in men or women from any racial and ethnic group. However, because of their embarrassment, women often fail to volunteer that they are struggling with this problem. Some women have been afflicted for years and have developed a regular routine of shaving or plucking hairs and then applying makeup for camouflage, Dr. Roberts said.
“This is a patient who rarely presents the problem to the dermatologist. Yet, she is in every one of our practices,” she added. Due to the frequency with which she has identified pseudofolliculitis barbae in patients who are being seen for a different complaint, she now routinely asks patients about this issue when taking a history. Early detection is useful because pseudofolliculitis barbae is more easily resolved in younger women than in older women.
When the problem is resolved, patient satisfaction is very high. For this reason, Dr. Roberts called diagnosis and treatment of pseudofolliculitis barbae “a practice builder.” Based on her approach, “you can really get these ladies clear.”
Dr. Roberts reports financial relationships with an extensive list of companies that market dermatologic and cosmetic products.
NEW YORK – For has been found highly effective, Wendy Roberts, MD, reported at the Skin of Color Update 2019.
“We didn’t have great treatments for this problem in the past, but the technology has evolved, and you can now get most women clear,” Dr. Roberts, a dermatologist who practices in Rancho Mirage, Calif., said at the meeting.
This approach is appropriate in all women, but Dr. Roberts focused on her experience with black patients, for whom an antioxidant cream is added to address the inflammatory-associated hyperpigmentation that often accompanies pseudofolliculitis barbae, a chronic inflammatory skin condition typically characterized by small, painful papules and pustules.
Start with microdermabrasion to treat the hypertrophic hair follicles and address keratin plugs, Dr. Roberts said. The microdermabrasion smooths the skin and increases penetration of subsequent creams and topics, she said.
“In the same session, I treat with Nd-YAG 1064 nm laser using short pulses,” she noted. For black women, she makes four passes with the laser at a level of moderate intensity. For those with lighter skin, she might perform as many as six passes with the laser set higher.
The microdermabrasion is repeated monthly for three or four treatments, but can be extended for those with persistent symptoms, Dr. Roberts pointed out. She presented a case of a patient who required seven treatments to achieve a satisfactory response.
Patients are instructed to avoid hair plucking and over the course of treatment nightly topical tretinoin is recommended for maintenance. Regular use of emollients is also recommended. For black women who have developed hyperpigmentation as a complication of pseudofolliculitis barbae, Dr. Roberts prescribes a lightening cream.
“I have pretty much moved away from hydroquinone,” said Dr. Roberts, explaining that she has achieved better results with topical cysteamine, a product that she has been using for about 3 years.
In outlining her treatment strategy, she employed case studies of two black women, both of whom achieved resolution of the problem and were satisfied with the results. She said that the same approach is suitable for women of other racial and ethnic groups.
Most commonly seen in black men, pseudofolliculitis barbae – also known as razor bumps – can occur as a complication of shaving in men or women from any racial and ethnic group. However, because of their embarrassment, women often fail to volunteer that they are struggling with this problem. Some women have been afflicted for years and have developed a regular routine of shaving or plucking hairs and then applying makeup for camouflage, Dr. Roberts said.
“This is a patient who rarely presents the problem to the dermatologist. Yet, she is in every one of our practices,” she added. Due to the frequency with which she has identified pseudofolliculitis barbae in patients who are being seen for a different complaint, she now routinely asks patients about this issue when taking a history. Early detection is useful because pseudofolliculitis barbae is more easily resolved in younger women than in older women.
When the problem is resolved, patient satisfaction is very high. For this reason, Dr. Roberts called diagnosis and treatment of pseudofolliculitis barbae “a practice builder.” Based on her approach, “you can really get these ladies clear.”
Dr. Roberts reports financial relationships with an extensive list of companies that market dermatologic and cosmetic products.
NEW YORK – For has been found highly effective, Wendy Roberts, MD, reported at the Skin of Color Update 2019.
“We didn’t have great treatments for this problem in the past, but the technology has evolved, and you can now get most women clear,” Dr. Roberts, a dermatologist who practices in Rancho Mirage, Calif., said at the meeting.
This approach is appropriate in all women, but Dr. Roberts focused on her experience with black patients, for whom an antioxidant cream is added to address the inflammatory-associated hyperpigmentation that often accompanies pseudofolliculitis barbae, a chronic inflammatory skin condition typically characterized by small, painful papules and pustules.
Start with microdermabrasion to treat the hypertrophic hair follicles and address keratin plugs, Dr. Roberts said. The microdermabrasion smooths the skin and increases penetration of subsequent creams and topics, she said.
“In the same session, I treat with Nd-YAG 1064 nm laser using short pulses,” she noted. For black women, she makes four passes with the laser at a level of moderate intensity. For those with lighter skin, she might perform as many as six passes with the laser set higher.
The microdermabrasion is repeated monthly for three or four treatments, but can be extended for those with persistent symptoms, Dr. Roberts pointed out. She presented a case of a patient who required seven treatments to achieve a satisfactory response.
Patients are instructed to avoid hair plucking and over the course of treatment nightly topical tretinoin is recommended for maintenance. Regular use of emollients is also recommended. For black women who have developed hyperpigmentation as a complication of pseudofolliculitis barbae, Dr. Roberts prescribes a lightening cream.
“I have pretty much moved away from hydroquinone,” said Dr. Roberts, explaining that she has achieved better results with topical cysteamine, a product that she has been using for about 3 years.
In outlining her treatment strategy, she employed case studies of two black women, both of whom achieved resolution of the problem and were satisfied with the results. She said that the same approach is suitable for women of other racial and ethnic groups.
Most commonly seen in black men, pseudofolliculitis barbae – also known as razor bumps – can occur as a complication of shaving in men or women from any racial and ethnic group. However, because of their embarrassment, women often fail to volunteer that they are struggling with this problem. Some women have been afflicted for years and have developed a regular routine of shaving or plucking hairs and then applying makeup for camouflage, Dr. Roberts said.
“This is a patient who rarely presents the problem to the dermatologist. Yet, she is in every one of our practices,” she added. Due to the frequency with which she has identified pseudofolliculitis barbae in patients who are being seen for a different complaint, she now routinely asks patients about this issue when taking a history. Early detection is useful because pseudofolliculitis barbae is more easily resolved in younger women than in older women.
When the problem is resolved, patient satisfaction is very high. For this reason, Dr. Roberts called diagnosis and treatment of pseudofolliculitis barbae “a practice builder.” Based on her approach, “you can really get these ladies clear.”
Dr. Roberts reports financial relationships with an extensive list of companies that market dermatologic and cosmetic products.
REPORTING FROM SOC 2019
Whitening of skin remains charged topic at Skin of Color meeting
NEW YORK – , judging from an informal survey of those attending the Skin of Color Update 2019, where this topic was introduced.
When the Skin of Color conference chair, Eliot Battle, MD, founder of Cultura Dermatology and Laser Center, Washington, asked who in the audience considered total body whitening to be “wrong,” the show of hands was substantial. He then offered some perspective.
“How many think breast augmentation is wrong?” he asked. “How many think changing your hair color is wrong? Before we cast judgment, let’s think a little about how our patients feel.”
Although he acknowledged the difficulty of separating a racial context from the cultural perception of lighter skin as desirable, Dr. Battle contended that choices regarding appearance are complex. He cautioned against moral judgments blind to this complexity.
“As physicians we need to keep ourselves in check, to keep ourselves from making judgments [regarding lightening agents],” he said.
The two other panelists participating in the same session made compatible observations. Although the other two panelists limited most of their presentations to skin lightening for clinical indications, such as melasma and other disorders of hyperpigmentation, they acknowledged and addressed the sense of discomfort the topic raises.
“To many patients, depigmentation is a passport to society,” said Pearl Grimes, MD, director of the Vitiligo and Pigmentation Institute, Los Angeles. Although she considers this a global issue, not an issue unique to the black population, she counseled dermatologists to “respect the vicissitudes and issues of pigmentation” that she said include the patient’s concerns about beauty, class, and privilege.
Sensitive to the desire of some patients for lighter skin, Cheryl Burgess, MD, founder of the Center for Dermatology and Dermatologic Surgery, Washington, opened her talk by displaying the Time Magazine cover of O.J. Simpson at the time he was accused of murder. The photo appeared to have been intentionally darkened in an effort that was thought by many to make him appear more sinister.
This might be an appropriate example of what skin pigment represents to some segments of American society, but Dr. Battle said that the quest for lighter skin is a global phenomenon. He claims that Asia, India, and Africa are now among the fastest growing and largest markets for skin lightening strategies. The options in those areas of the world, like the United States, are proliferating quickly.
Many of the rapidly expanding options have not yet proved to be effective or safe. The antioxidant glutathione, which is being used for a long list of proven and unproven indications, is among these, according to Dr. Battle. In many clinics where this drug is administered intravenously to avoid degradation in the gastrointestinal tract, he suggested there is reason to believe the staff has little training in safety monitoring.
There are no long-term studies evaluating the safety and efficacy of glutathione for skin lightening, according to Dr. Battle, but there are many case reports of serious toxicities, including death. He listed thyroid dysfunction, renal impairment, and liver dysfunction among adverse events potentially related to glutathione.
“When I gave this talk a year ago, there were no clinics in Washington [offering glutathione]. Now there are seven,” he said.
Even for those dermatologists uncomfortable offering skin lightening for cosmetic purposes, ignoring the demand is ill advised, he said. Evaluating and advising patients on the safety of these agents is one reason to become involved, said Dr. Battle, who noted that specialists in dermatology are uniquely trained to monitor drugs for this application.
“You can tell a patient to stop, but they won’t stop,” said Dr. Battle. He maintained that organized medicine, including the American Academy of Dermatology, should take a role in evaluating the safety and efficacy of lightening agents even when used only for cosmetic indications.
Currently, there are no Food and Drug Administration–approved therapies for whitening of the skin.
“This is such an important question, and I think we need to figure it out,” Dr. Battle said. “Not a day goes by in our practice when we are not asked about skin lightening.”
Dr. Battle reported no relevant disclosures; Dr. Grimes and Dr. Burgess reported multiple financial relationships with industry that are not necessarily relevant to this topic.
NEW YORK – , judging from an informal survey of those attending the Skin of Color Update 2019, where this topic was introduced.
When the Skin of Color conference chair, Eliot Battle, MD, founder of Cultura Dermatology and Laser Center, Washington, asked who in the audience considered total body whitening to be “wrong,” the show of hands was substantial. He then offered some perspective.
“How many think breast augmentation is wrong?” he asked. “How many think changing your hair color is wrong? Before we cast judgment, let’s think a little about how our patients feel.”
Although he acknowledged the difficulty of separating a racial context from the cultural perception of lighter skin as desirable, Dr. Battle contended that choices regarding appearance are complex. He cautioned against moral judgments blind to this complexity.
“As physicians we need to keep ourselves in check, to keep ourselves from making judgments [regarding lightening agents],” he said.
The two other panelists participating in the same session made compatible observations. Although the other two panelists limited most of their presentations to skin lightening for clinical indications, such as melasma and other disorders of hyperpigmentation, they acknowledged and addressed the sense of discomfort the topic raises.
“To many patients, depigmentation is a passport to society,” said Pearl Grimes, MD, director of the Vitiligo and Pigmentation Institute, Los Angeles. Although she considers this a global issue, not an issue unique to the black population, she counseled dermatologists to “respect the vicissitudes and issues of pigmentation” that she said include the patient’s concerns about beauty, class, and privilege.
Sensitive to the desire of some patients for lighter skin, Cheryl Burgess, MD, founder of the Center for Dermatology and Dermatologic Surgery, Washington, opened her talk by displaying the Time Magazine cover of O.J. Simpson at the time he was accused of murder. The photo appeared to have been intentionally darkened in an effort that was thought by many to make him appear more sinister.
This might be an appropriate example of what skin pigment represents to some segments of American society, but Dr. Battle said that the quest for lighter skin is a global phenomenon. He claims that Asia, India, and Africa are now among the fastest growing and largest markets for skin lightening strategies. The options in those areas of the world, like the United States, are proliferating quickly.
Many of the rapidly expanding options have not yet proved to be effective or safe. The antioxidant glutathione, which is being used for a long list of proven and unproven indications, is among these, according to Dr. Battle. In many clinics where this drug is administered intravenously to avoid degradation in the gastrointestinal tract, he suggested there is reason to believe the staff has little training in safety monitoring.
There are no long-term studies evaluating the safety and efficacy of glutathione for skin lightening, according to Dr. Battle, but there are many case reports of serious toxicities, including death. He listed thyroid dysfunction, renal impairment, and liver dysfunction among adverse events potentially related to glutathione.
“When I gave this talk a year ago, there were no clinics in Washington [offering glutathione]. Now there are seven,” he said.
Even for those dermatologists uncomfortable offering skin lightening for cosmetic purposes, ignoring the demand is ill advised, he said. Evaluating and advising patients on the safety of these agents is one reason to become involved, said Dr. Battle, who noted that specialists in dermatology are uniquely trained to monitor drugs for this application.
“You can tell a patient to stop, but they won’t stop,” said Dr. Battle. He maintained that organized medicine, including the American Academy of Dermatology, should take a role in evaluating the safety and efficacy of lightening agents even when used only for cosmetic indications.
Currently, there are no Food and Drug Administration–approved therapies for whitening of the skin.
“This is such an important question, and I think we need to figure it out,” Dr. Battle said. “Not a day goes by in our practice when we are not asked about skin lightening.”
Dr. Battle reported no relevant disclosures; Dr. Grimes and Dr. Burgess reported multiple financial relationships with industry that are not necessarily relevant to this topic.
NEW YORK – , judging from an informal survey of those attending the Skin of Color Update 2019, where this topic was introduced.
When the Skin of Color conference chair, Eliot Battle, MD, founder of Cultura Dermatology and Laser Center, Washington, asked who in the audience considered total body whitening to be “wrong,” the show of hands was substantial. He then offered some perspective.
“How many think breast augmentation is wrong?” he asked. “How many think changing your hair color is wrong? Before we cast judgment, let’s think a little about how our patients feel.”
Although he acknowledged the difficulty of separating a racial context from the cultural perception of lighter skin as desirable, Dr. Battle contended that choices regarding appearance are complex. He cautioned against moral judgments blind to this complexity.
“As physicians we need to keep ourselves in check, to keep ourselves from making judgments [regarding lightening agents],” he said.
The two other panelists participating in the same session made compatible observations. Although the other two panelists limited most of their presentations to skin lightening for clinical indications, such as melasma and other disorders of hyperpigmentation, they acknowledged and addressed the sense of discomfort the topic raises.
“To many patients, depigmentation is a passport to society,” said Pearl Grimes, MD, director of the Vitiligo and Pigmentation Institute, Los Angeles. Although she considers this a global issue, not an issue unique to the black population, she counseled dermatologists to “respect the vicissitudes and issues of pigmentation” that she said include the patient’s concerns about beauty, class, and privilege.
Sensitive to the desire of some patients for lighter skin, Cheryl Burgess, MD, founder of the Center for Dermatology and Dermatologic Surgery, Washington, opened her talk by displaying the Time Magazine cover of O.J. Simpson at the time he was accused of murder. The photo appeared to have been intentionally darkened in an effort that was thought by many to make him appear more sinister.
This might be an appropriate example of what skin pigment represents to some segments of American society, but Dr. Battle said that the quest for lighter skin is a global phenomenon. He claims that Asia, India, and Africa are now among the fastest growing and largest markets for skin lightening strategies. The options in those areas of the world, like the United States, are proliferating quickly.
Many of the rapidly expanding options have not yet proved to be effective or safe. The antioxidant glutathione, which is being used for a long list of proven and unproven indications, is among these, according to Dr. Battle. In many clinics where this drug is administered intravenously to avoid degradation in the gastrointestinal tract, he suggested there is reason to believe the staff has little training in safety monitoring.
There are no long-term studies evaluating the safety and efficacy of glutathione for skin lightening, according to Dr. Battle, but there are many case reports of serious toxicities, including death. He listed thyroid dysfunction, renal impairment, and liver dysfunction among adverse events potentially related to glutathione.
“When I gave this talk a year ago, there were no clinics in Washington [offering glutathione]. Now there are seven,” he said.
Even for those dermatologists uncomfortable offering skin lightening for cosmetic purposes, ignoring the demand is ill advised, he said. Evaluating and advising patients on the safety of these agents is one reason to become involved, said Dr. Battle, who noted that specialists in dermatology are uniquely trained to monitor drugs for this application.
“You can tell a patient to stop, but they won’t stop,” said Dr. Battle. He maintained that organized medicine, including the American Academy of Dermatology, should take a role in evaluating the safety and efficacy of lightening agents even when used only for cosmetic indications.
Currently, there are no Food and Drug Administration–approved therapies for whitening of the skin.
“This is such an important question, and I think we need to figure it out,” Dr. Battle said. “Not a day goes by in our practice when we are not asked about skin lightening.”
Dr. Battle reported no relevant disclosures; Dr. Grimes and Dr. Burgess reported multiple financial relationships with industry that are not necessarily relevant to this topic.
REPORTING FROM SOC 2019
Cosmetic surgery and the secret world of Instagram dolls
They use names and hashtags that connect the work to their provider. So, for example, KathySmithDoll would be a woman who underwent surgery with a Dr. Kathy Smith.
In an era of patient empowerment, these pages – they’re called “Sx pages,” with Sx mimicking the prescriptive “Rx” – form a just-out-of-sight Instagram community. They serve as a cosmetic surgery shopping guide, a best-practices education system, and can also sound the alarm about bad experiences with practitioners. Some presurgery doll pages are more like inspiration pages or mood boards, collecting images of desired shapes.
That way, “other girls doing research can find someone with a similar build to theirs and follow their journey for a glimpse at what they might look like if they got similar procedures,” said Tai Hall, a massage therapist in Maryland. On her Instagram page, she showcases before-and-after body-contouring results; in her Facebook group, she teaches postoperative self-massage and how people can best take care of themselves while healing.
These Instagram pages, she said, “are really big deals.”
The Sx Instagram pages are private and anonymous, to some extent, and follow strict rules to stay that way, particularly since many feature nudity. (As a social media practice, Sx pages are fairly similar to teenager’s private “finsta” friends-only accounts. They are similarly unverified and what they report is unverifiable.) Many of the bios on these pages indicate they won’t allow access to men.
Each Instagram page bio often unveils elaborate details, often including height and weight. The patient – the doll – will list surgery dates and tag her surgeon, recovery house, any postoperative care specialists or private nurses, and her postoperative massage therapist.
Recovery houses, surgery providers, and massage therapists also use the hashtags to promote their services. Some of these are flooded with ads or spam. Some are used by practitioners for education about surgery.
The surgery age
According to the American Society of Plastic Surgeons, more than 1.8 million cosmetic surgeries were performed in the United States in 2018. Breast augmentation and liposuction accounted for about a third of those.
And the number of “cosmetic minimally invasive procedures” – Botox, laser hair removal, soft-tissue fillers, and more – has grown rapidly in the United States. There were fewer than 5 million procedures in 2000. In 2018, there were nearly 16 million. (Almost half of those procedures are Botox treatments.)
Cosmetic procedures are also becoming more popular among people of color. The American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery reports that cosmetic augmentation, like liposuctions and buttocks lifts, increased 56% among African Americans from 2005 to 2013, and is still rising.
As the number of savvy customers grows, doll pages provide a useful glimpse into the less-glamorous side of before and after – the details that people like to overlook, like bruising, drainage, and the often painfully long process of healing after significant surgeries.
Patients become online advertisements for their surgeons. Surgeons develop a reputation on social media for being the best at certain procedures, for delivering a desired look, or for working with certain ethnic groups and body types.
“They’ll cry and upload videos of pain and success and their struggles, or whatever they’re going through, and their surgery sisters help uplift them,” Ms. Hall said.
And there is a lot to talk about, from surgeons to procedures to recovery houses to advice on how to travel with the least hassle from airport security or airline staff when patients are clad in fajas – a kind of postoperative girdle – or other foam paddings.
How we shop for surgeons now
Sx pages can be an effective patient empowerment tool if done honestly and fairly, said Alan Matarasso, MD, a plastic surgeon in New York and the president of the American Society of Plastic Surgeons.
“It makes sense because this is a small group of people,” he said. “Not a lot of doctors do Brazilian butt lifts, but patients need to realize that they are not rating a restaurant.”
Dr. Matarasso encourages prospective patients who rely on Sx pages to research and prepare in other ways as well.
“The standards have to be even greater than if you had a sick gallbladder, because you don’t have to do this,” he said. “This is not like vetting a hotel room. You have to be careful.”
Dr. Matarasso recommends that prospective patients ask to see the surgeon’s best and worst results, or a random case – say, the 37th case they did that year. He suggests that prospective clients visit the American Board of Plastic Surgery websites to do research and that patients query the licensing state and find out what, if any, violations a surgeon may have had. Patients can ask board-certified surgeons their specialty and whether they are certified in it.
Ms. Hall, the massage therapist, warned that patients may see women who heal faster or achieve different results than they might. As is often the case on Instagram, people tend to post fewer of their struggles and more of their highlight reels.
Patients taking care of patients
Sx pages might be even more valuable for patients who plan to travel internationally for their surgery. Many people in the United States do this to save money. Doll pages serve to warn prospective patients about problems that surgeons and hospitals don’t disclose.
After surgery, especially if extensive travel is needed, patients may recuperate at recovery houses for a few days. Procedures like fat transfer to the buttocks leave patients unable to move around or sit; doctors may install drains to help remove fluid after surgery.
In a recovery house, a caretaker can tend to their incisions; help with bathing, food, and pain medications; and even perform regular postoperative massages.
In May, the mother of an Instagram model named Yatnaa Rivera died during a procedure in the Dominican Republic. Ms. Rivera took to Instagram to ask for help and to warn others. The doctor who performed the operation, Hector Cabral, MD, had been fined for operating in the United States without a license. He is linked to several deaths and is still practicing. (Dr. Cabral did not respond to inquiries via social media; his office answered calls but said he was on vacation.)
Instagram accounts tagged into his doll hashtag (#CabralDoll) to spread the message.
Every day women are bombarded with images of beauty. With filters and editing apps, and the army of social media influencers who receive money or free cosmetic services in exchange for their Instagram posts, it’s often hard to know what’s real. Authentic depictions of what cosmetic surgery entails can be a reality check on what is attainable with cosmetic surgery.
In May 2019, the American College of Surgeons released voluntary ethical guidelines for social media by surgeons. Many of them address patient privacy, but they also advise practitioners to provide trustworthy medical advice and to be cautious around these “powerful educational tools.” Even so, now a real-time, crowdsourced system allows patients to cut through the surgeons’ marketing and advertising efforts.
Kaiser Health News is a nonprofit national health policy news service. It is an editorially independent program of the Henry J. Kaiser Family Foundation that is not affiliated with Kaiser Permanente.
They use names and hashtags that connect the work to their provider. So, for example, KathySmithDoll would be a woman who underwent surgery with a Dr. Kathy Smith.
In an era of patient empowerment, these pages – they’re called “Sx pages,” with Sx mimicking the prescriptive “Rx” – form a just-out-of-sight Instagram community. They serve as a cosmetic surgery shopping guide, a best-practices education system, and can also sound the alarm about bad experiences with practitioners. Some presurgery doll pages are more like inspiration pages or mood boards, collecting images of desired shapes.
That way, “other girls doing research can find someone with a similar build to theirs and follow their journey for a glimpse at what they might look like if they got similar procedures,” said Tai Hall, a massage therapist in Maryland. On her Instagram page, she showcases before-and-after body-contouring results; in her Facebook group, she teaches postoperative self-massage and how people can best take care of themselves while healing.
These Instagram pages, she said, “are really big deals.”
The Sx Instagram pages are private and anonymous, to some extent, and follow strict rules to stay that way, particularly since many feature nudity. (As a social media practice, Sx pages are fairly similar to teenager’s private “finsta” friends-only accounts. They are similarly unverified and what they report is unverifiable.) Many of the bios on these pages indicate they won’t allow access to men.
Each Instagram page bio often unveils elaborate details, often including height and weight. The patient – the doll – will list surgery dates and tag her surgeon, recovery house, any postoperative care specialists or private nurses, and her postoperative massage therapist.
Recovery houses, surgery providers, and massage therapists also use the hashtags to promote their services. Some of these are flooded with ads or spam. Some are used by practitioners for education about surgery.
The surgery age
According to the American Society of Plastic Surgeons, more than 1.8 million cosmetic surgeries were performed in the United States in 2018. Breast augmentation and liposuction accounted for about a third of those.
And the number of “cosmetic minimally invasive procedures” – Botox, laser hair removal, soft-tissue fillers, and more – has grown rapidly in the United States. There were fewer than 5 million procedures in 2000. In 2018, there were nearly 16 million. (Almost half of those procedures are Botox treatments.)
Cosmetic procedures are also becoming more popular among people of color. The American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery reports that cosmetic augmentation, like liposuctions and buttocks lifts, increased 56% among African Americans from 2005 to 2013, and is still rising.
As the number of savvy customers grows, doll pages provide a useful glimpse into the less-glamorous side of before and after – the details that people like to overlook, like bruising, drainage, and the often painfully long process of healing after significant surgeries.
Patients become online advertisements for their surgeons. Surgeons develop a reputation on social media for being the best at certain procedures, for delivering a desired look, or for working with certain ethnic groups and body types.
“They’ll cry and upload videos of pain and success and their struggles, or whatever they’re going through, and their surgery sisters help uplift them,” Ms. Hall said.
And there is a lot to talk about, from surgeons to procedures to recovery houses to advice on how to travel with the least hassle from airport security or airline staff when patients are clad in fajas – a kind of postoperative girdle – or other foam paddings.
How we shop for surgeons now
Sx pages can be an effective patient empowerment tool if done honestly and fairly, said Alan Matarasso, MD, a plastic surgeon in New York and the president of the American Society of Plastic Surgeons.
“It makes sense because this is a small group of people,” he said. “Not a lot of doctors do Brazilian butt lifts, but patients need to realize that they are not rating a restaurant.”
Dr. Matarasso encourages prospective patients who rely on Sx pages to research and prepare in other ways as well.
“The standards have to be even greater than if you had a sick gallbladder, because you don’t have to do this,” he said. “This is not like vetting a hotel room. You have to be careful.”
Dr. Matarasso recommends that prospective patients ask to see the surgeon’s best and worst results, or a random case – say, the 37th case they did that year. He suggests that prospective clients visit the American Board of Plastic Surgery websites to do research and that patients query the licensing state and find out what, if any, violations a surgeon may have had. Patients can ask board-certified surgeons their specialty and whether they are certified in it.
Ms. Hall, the massage therapist, warned that patients may see women who heal faster or achieve different results than they might. As is often the case on Instagram, people tend to post fewer of their struggles and more of their highlight reels.
Patients taking care of patients
Sx pages might be even more valuable for patients who plan to travel internationally for their surgery. Many people in the United States do this to save money. Doll pages serve to warn prospective patients about problems that surgeons and hospitals don’t disclose.
After surgery, especially if extensive travel is needed, patients may recuperate at recovery houses for a few days. Procedures like fat transfer to the buttocks leave patients unable to move around or sit; doctors may install drains to help remove fluid after surgery.
In a recovery house, a caretaker can tend to their incisions; help with bathing, food, and pain medications; and even perform regular postoperative massages.
In May, the mother of an Instagram model named Yatnaa Rivera died during a procedure in the Dominican Republic. Ms. Rivera took to Instagram to ask for help and to warn others. The doctor who performed the operation, Hector Cabral, MD, had been fined for operating in the United States without a license. He is linked to several deaths and is still practicing. (Dr. Cabral did not respond to inquiries via social media; his office answered calls but said he was on vacation.)
Instagram accounts tagged into his doll hashtag (#CabralDoll) to spread the message.
Every day women are bombarded with images of beauty. With filters and editing apps, and the army of social media influencers who receive money or free cosmetic services in exchange for their Instagram posts, it’s often hard to know what’s real. Authentic depictions of what cosmetic surgery entails can be a reality check on what is attainable with cosmetic surgery.
In May 2019, the American College of Surgeons released voluntary ethical guidelines for social media by surgeons. Many of them address patient privacy, but they also advise practitioners to provide trustworthy medical advice and to be cautious around these “powerful educational tools.” Even so, now a real-time, crowdsourced system allows patients to cut through the surgeons’ marketing and advertising efforts.
Kaiser Health News is a nonprofit national health policy news service. It is an editorially independent program of the Henry J. Kaiser Family Foundation that is not affiliated with Kaiser Permanente.
They use names and hashtags that connect the work to their provider. So, for example, KathySmithDoll would be a woman who underwent surgery with a Dr. Kathy Smith.
In an era of patient empowerment, these pages – they’re called “Sx pages,” with Sx mimicking the prescriptive “Rx” – form a just-out-of-sight Instagram community. They serve as a cosmetic surgery shopping guide, a best-practices education system, and can also sound the alarm about bad experiences with practitioners. Some presurgery doll pages are more like inspiration pages or mood boards, collecting images of desired shapes.
That way, “other girls doing research can find someone with a similar build to theirs and follow their journey for a glimpse at what they might look like if they got similar procedures,” said Tai Hall, a massage therapist in Maryland. On her Instagram page, she showcases before-and-after body-contouring results; in her Facebook group, she teaches postoperative self-massage and how people can best take care of themselves while healing.
These Instagram pages, she said, “are really big deals.”
The Sx Instagram pages are private and anonymous, to some extent, and follow strict rules to stay that way, particularly since many feature nudity. (As a social media practice, Sx pages are fairly similar to teenager’s private “finsta” friends-only accounts. They are similarly unverified and what they report is unverifiable.) Many of the bios on these pages indicate they won’t allow access to men.
Each Instagram page bio often unveils elaborate details, often including height and weight. The patient – the doll – will list surgery dates and tag her surgeon, recovery house, any postoperative care specialists or private nurses, and her postoperative massage therapist.
Recovery houses, surgery providers, and massage therapists also use the hashtags to promote their services. Some of these are flooded with ads or spam. Some are used by practitioners for education about surgery.
The surgery age
According to the American Society of Plastic Surgeons, more than 1.8 million cosmetic surgeries were performed in the United States in 2018. Breast augmentation and liposuction accounted for about a third of those.
And the number of “cosmetic minimally invasive procedures” – Botox, laser hair removal, soft-tissue fillers, and more – has grown rapidly in the United States. There were fewer than 5 million procedures in 2000. In 2018, there were nearly 16 million. (Almost half of those procedures are Botox treatments.)
Cosmetic procedures are also becoming more popular among people of color. The American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery reports that cosmetic augmentation, like liposuctions and buttocks lifts, increased 56% among African Americans from 2005 to 2013, and is still rising.
As the number of savvy customers grows, doll pages provide a useful glimpse into the less-glamorous side of before and after – the details that people like to overlook, like bruising, drainage, and the often painfully long process of healing after significant surgeries.
Patients become online advertisements for their surgeons. Surgeons develop a reputation on social media for being the best at certain procedures, for delivering a desired look, or for working with certain ethnic groups and body types.
“They’ll cry and upload videos of pain and success and their struggles, or whatever they’re going through, and their surgery sisters help uplift them,” Ms. Hall said.
And there is a lot to talk about, from surgeons to procedures to recovery houses to advice on how to travel with the least hassle from airport security or airline staff when patients are clad in fajas – a kind of postoperative girdle – or other foam paddings.
How we shop for surgeons now
Sx pages can be an effective patient empowerment tool if done honestly and fairly, said Alan Matarasso, MD, a plastic surgeon in New York and the president of the American Society of Plastic Surgeons.
“It makes sense because this is a small group of people,” he said. “Not a lot of doctors do Brazilian butt lifts, but patients need to realize that they are not rating a restaurant.”
Dr. Matarasso encourages prospective patients who rely on Sx pages to research and prepare in other ways as well.
“The standards have to be even greater than if you had a sick gallbladder, because you don’t have to do this,” he said. “This is not like vetting a hotel room. You have to be careful.”
Dr. Matarasso recommends that prospective patients ask to see the surgeon’s best and worst results, or a random case – say, the 37th case they did that year. He suggests that prospective clients visit the American Board of Plastic Surgery websites to do research and that patients query the licensing state and find out what, if any, violations a surgeon may have had. Patients can ask board-certified surgeons their specialty and whether they are certified in it.
Ms. Hall, the massage therapist, warned that patients may see women who heal faster or achieve different results than they might. As is often the case on Instagram, people tend to post fewer of their struggles and more of their highlight reels.
Patients taking care of patients
Sx pages might be even more valuable for patients who plan to travel internationally for their surgery. Many people in the United States do this to save money. Doll pages serve to warn prospective patients about problems that surgeons and hospitals don’t disclose.
After surgery, especially if extensive travel is needed, patients may recuperate at recovery houses for a few days. Procedures like fat transfer to the buttocks leave patients unable to move around or sit; doctors may install drains to help remove fluid after surgery.
In a recovery house, a caretaker can tend to their incisions; help with bathing, food, and pain medications; and even perform regular postoperative massages.
In May, the mother of an Instagram model named Yatnaa Rivera died during a procedure in the Dominican Republic. Ms. Rivera took to Instagram to ask for help and to warn others. The doctor who performed the operation, Hector Cabral, MD, had been fined for operating in the United States without a license. He is linked to several deaths and is still practicing. (Dr. Cabral did not respond to inquiries via social media; his office answered calls but said he was on vacation.)
Instagram accounts tagged into his doll hashtag (#CabralDoll) to spread the message.
Every day women are bombarded with images of beauty. With filters and editing apps, and the army of social media influencers who receive money or free cosmetic services in exchange for their Instagram posts, it’s often hard to know what’s real. Authentic depictions of what cosmetic surgery entails can be a reality check on what is attainable with cosmetic surgery.
In May 2019, the American College of Surgeons released voluntary ethical guidelines for social media by surgeons. Many of them address patient privacy, but they also advise practitioners to provide trustworthy medical advice and to be cautious around these “powerful educational tools.” Even so, now a real-time, crowdsourced system allows patients to cut through the surgeons’ marketing and advertising efforts.
Kaiser Health News is a nonprofit national health policy news service. It is an editorially independent program of the Henry J. Kaiser Family Foundation that is not affiliated with Kaiser Permanente.
Three distinct scenarios for treating facial redness with lasers and light
SAN DIEGO – In the clinical experience of J. Stuart Nelson, MD, PhD,
“There’s the patient with telangiectasia without diffuse redness, the patient who has telangiectasia with diffuse redness, and the patient who has diffuse redness,” Dr. Nelson said at the annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “Because the vessel sizes are different, your approach to the clinical management of each one of these patients is going to be very different.”
For patients with telangiectasia without the redness, using pulsed dye lasers with a wavelength of 585-600 nm can be effective. “If someone has a single isolated telangiectasia, it’s the simplest thing you’ll do that day in your office,” said Dr. Nelson, professor of surgery and biomedical engineering at the Beckman Laser Institute and Medical Clinic at the University of California, Irvine. “It’s like Tiger Woods putting for a 2-foot birdie. Similarly, with the millisecond green devices, you can focus the laser beam onto the spot and you will see the blood vessels go away in real time.”
Treating patients who have telangiectasia and diffuse redness requires two steps. First, treat the larger telangiectasia with pulse durations of 20 ms, he said, and then treat the global background redness with shorter pulse durations (of 3 ms and 6 ms). “You can do this with pulse dye lasers and with green millisecond devices,” he noted.
For patients who present with diffuse global redness, “you don’t have to worry about the larger blood vessels, so you’re not going to be using the long pulse durations of the laser exposure,” said Dr. Nelson, past president of the American Society for Laser Medicine and Surgery. “You’re going to be using much shorter pulse durations, because you’re targeting blood vessels that are much smaller. You’re trying to tease out that background redness.”
If you’re concerned about how a particular patient will fare, consider performing a test spot. “This allows you to check for any unusual tissue reaction and to gauge the potential success of the laser treatment you’re doing,” he said. “It allows the patient to sort of experience the swelling and healing process they’re going to be going through.”
Dr. Nelson advised against applying a “cookbook” approach to using lasers and light sources in dermatology. “Don’t memorize treatment parameters,” he said. “What you really need to do is look for the clinical endpoints. What is the tissue response you want to see? You also want to exercise caution in patients who are tanned. The epidermal melanin absorption by tanned patients can be significant, even with some of the cooling technologies we have.”
Dr. Nelson reported having intellectual property rights with Syneron/Candela.
SAN DIEGO – In the clinical experience of J. Stuart Nelson, MD, PhD,
“There’s the patient with telangiectasia without diffuse redness, the patient who has telangiectasia with diffuse redness, and the patient who has diffuse redness,” Dr. Nelson said at the annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “Because the vessel sizes are different, your approach to the clinical management of each one of these patients is going to be very different.”
For patients with telangiectasia without the redness, using pulsed dye lasers with a wavelength of 585-600 nm can be effective. “If someone has a single isolated telangiectasia, it’s the simplest thing you’ll do that day in your office,” said Dr. Nelson, professor of surgery and biomedical engineering at the Beckman Laser Institute and Medical Clinic at the University of California, Irvine. “It’s like Tiger Woods putting for a 2-foot birdie. Similarly, with the millisecond green devices, you can focus the laser beam onto the spot and you will see the blood vessels go away in real time.”
Treating patients who have telangiectasia and diffuse redness requires two steps. First, treat the larger telangiectasia with pulse durations of 20 ms, he said, and then treat the global background redness with shorter pulse durations (of 3 ms and 6 ms). “You can do this with pulse dye lasers and with green millisecond devices,” he noted.
For patients who present with diffuse global redness, “you don’t have to worry about the larger blood vessels, so you’re not going to be using the long pulse durations of the laser exposure,” said Dr. Nelson, past president of the American Society for Laser Medicine and Surgery. “You’re going to be using much shorter pulse durations, because you’re targeting blood vessels that are much smaller. You’re trying to tease out that background redness.”
If you’re concerned about how a particular patient will fare, consider performing a test spot. “This allows you to check for any unusual tissue reaction and to gauge the potential success of the laser treatment you’re doing,” he said. “It allows the patient to sort of experience the swelling and healing process they’re going to be going through.”
Dr. Nelson advised against applying a “cookbook” approach to using lasers and light sources in dermatology. “Don’t memorize treatment parameters,” he said. “What you really need to do is look for the clinical endpoints. What is the tissue response you want to see? You also want to exercise caution in patients who are tanned. The epidermal melanin absorption by tanned patients can be significant, even with some of the cooling technologies we have.”
Dr. Nelson reported having intellectual property rights with Syneron/Candela.
SAN DIEGO – In the clinical experience of J. Stuart Nelson, MD, PhD,
“There’s the patient with telangiectasia without diffuse redness, the patient who has telangiectasia with diffuse redness, and the patient who has diffuse redness,” Dr. Nelson said at the annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “Because the vessel sizes are different, your approach to the clinical management of each one of these patients is going to be very different.”
For patients with telangiectasia without the redness, using pulsed dye lasers with a wavelength of 585-600 nm can be effective. “If someone has a single isolated telangiectasia, it’s the simplest thing you’ll do that day in your office,” said Dr. Nelson, professor of surgery and biomedical engineering at the Beckman Laser Institute and Medical Clinic at the University of California, Irvine. “It’s like Tiger Woods putting for a 2-foot birdie. Similarly, with the millisecond green devices, you can focus the laser beam onto the spot and you will see the blood vessels go away in real time.”
Treating patients who have telangiectasia and diffuse redness requires two steps. First, treat the larger telangiectasia with pulse durations of 20 ms, he said, and then treat the global background redness with shorter pulse durations (of 3 ms and 6 ms). “You can do this with pulse dye lasers and with green millisecond devices,” he noted.
For patients who present with diffuse global redness, “you don’t have to worry about the larger blood vessels, so you’re not going to be using the long pulse durations of the laser exposure,” said Dr. Nelson, past president of the American Society for Laser Medicine and Surgery. “You’re going to be using much shorter pulse durations, because you’re targeting blood vessels that are much smaller. You’re trying to tease out that background redness.”
If you’re concerned about how a particular patient will fare, consider performing a test spot. “This allows you to check for any unusual tissue reaction and to gauge the potential success of the laser treatment you’re doing,” he said. “It allows the patient to sort of experience the swelling and healing process they’re going to be going through.”
Dr. Nelson advised against applying a “cookbook” approach to using lasers and light sources in dermatology. “Don’t memorize treatment parameters,” he said. “What you really need to do is look for the clinical endpoints. What is the tissue response you want to see? You also want to exercise caution in patients who are tanned. The epidermal melanin absorption by tanned patients can be significant, even with some of the cooling technologies we have.”
Dr. Nelson reported having intellectual property rights with Syneron/Candela.
EXPERT ANALYSIS FROM MOA 2019
CBD in beauty products
Cannabidiol (CBD) seems to be everywhere now. Since the Farm Bill of 2018 legalizing the cultivation of hemp was signed into law last December, many CBD-based products have hit the market. The advent of and changed the public conversation about cannabis. That, and with the surge in legal availability, its use is more commonplace now – even in elderly populations and regions of the country where products thought to be associated with the marijuana plant would have once been considered taboo. A recent Gallup poll found that 14% of Americans say they now use CBD. As the benefits of CBD are demonstrated and perceptions change, having background knowledge of the manufacturing and available data on CBD will be helpful when patients ask about these products for skin care, to provide an evidenced-based approach.
CBD is one of over a hundred phytocannabinoids, which are naturally occurring cannabinoids found in the oily resin of the flower or “bud” (and to a lesser extent the leaves) of the cannabis plant. This is opposed to synthetic cannabinoids, as well as endocannabinoids (cannabinoid receptors found in humans and animals). Both CBD and THC (delta9-tetrahydrocannabinol), another phytocannabinoid, can provide anti-inflammatory and pain-control benefits; the main difference is that THC has psychoactive effects and CBD does not.
Cannabis is a genus of flowering plants in the Cannabaceae family, made up of three primary species: Cannabis sativa, Cannabis indica, and Cannabis ruderalis. CBD can be harvested from either Cannabis sativa or Cannabis indica. People often confuse hemp as equal to Cannabis sativa species and marijuana as equal to Cannabis indica, but neither hemp or marijuana are specific strains or species of cannabis plants, they are broad classifications of cannabis that do not indicate a specific strain.
Hemp, a term used to classify varieties of cannabis that contain trace amounts of THC, has generally been used to describe nonintoxicating cannabis harvested for the industrial use of its derived products, such as textiles, paper, food (hemp seeds), building materials, and skin care. While both “hemp” and “marijuana” can produce high amounts of CBD, CBD products sourced from hemp contain 0.3% THC or less (the legal allowance), while CBD products derived from “marijuana” typically contain 5%-35% THC. Since the 2018 Farm Act legalized the production of hemp in all 50 states, but not marijuana, most CBD nationwide is sourced from hemp. CBD from a marijuana source or a product containing both CBD and over 0.3% THC can only be sold in states where marijuana is legal. At this time, 11 states have legalized marijuana.
Marijuana varieties, grown to maximize the amount or quality of THC, are selectively bred in controlled environments designed to optimize the breed’s characteristics and produce female plants that yield budding flowers. In contrast, because of hemp’s diverse uses, it is grown to maximize its size and yield and is typically grown outdoors and does not require the level of control and attention needed to grow marijuana.
While there is some debate about whether CBD derived from hemp or marijuana differs, medical observations to date are that CBD derived from either source has the same mechanism of action; however, whether CBD has more therapeutic benefits in products alone or in combination with THC and other cannabis components remains to be determined. Of note, CBD is also absent in the roots or the seeds of cannabis and hemp. While hemp seeds are a good source of protein and omega-3 fatty acids, companies that claim they derive CBD from hemp stalk, hemp seeds, or hemp seed oil are making false claims because these parts of the plants contain no CBD, no THC, and no known plant cannabinoids.
CBD binds to endocannabinoid receptor CB2, whereas THC binds to both CB1 and CB2. CB1 receptors are primarily found in the central nervous system, affecting neurotransmitters leading to CNS depression, euphoria, psychosis, impaired memory, and increased appetite and have antiemetic effects, whereas CB2 is mostly found in peripheral organs and primarily affects the immune system resulting in decreased pain and anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects.
The skin has the highest amount and concentration of CB2 receptors in the body. As detailed in Dr. Leslie Baumann’s column “Primer on cannabis for cosmeceuticals” in Dermatology News, June 2019, skin-specific studies indicate that, when applied topically, CBD decreases sebum production and has anti-inflammatory effects. There is also evidence that CBD has antioxidant effects. Therefore, in the correct formulation, CBD may have potential in treating common sometimes debilitating skin conditions such as acne, as well as other inflammatory skin conditions.
For acne, beauty products containing CBD have the potential to help overall complexion and prevent acne scars. Because most degradation of collagen involves inflammation – whether the inflammation is secondary to excessive UV exposure, diet, poor health, or stress – the anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects also have potential benefit in treating and preventing signs of aging. Of note, the CB2 receptor has also been shown to be upregulated in melanoma and squamous cell carcinoma. In a recent study of keratinocytes irradiated with UVA and UVB light, CBD demonstrated antioxidant activity through nuclear factor erythroid 2–related factor 2 (Nrf2) activation, as well as anti-inflammatory properties as an inhibitor of the nuclear factor NF-kappa-B. Whether topical CBD can effectively prevent or treat cutaneous tumorigenesis is promising, but large scale data are still needed.
So far, the benefits of CBD in beauty products and topical skin formulations for treatment of skin disease are based on preclinical information, and there is a corresponding lack of high-quality randomized, controlled trials that evaluate their effects on skin-specific issues. Now, with the 2018 Farm Act in place, large-scale, randomized, controlled trials with cannabinoids should be able to be performed more easily to demonstrate the dermatologic benefits of this promising compound.
Dr. Wesley and Dr. Talakoub are cocontributors to this column. Dr. Wesley practices dermatology in Beverly Hills, Calif. Dr. Talakoub is in private practice in McLean, Va. This month’s column is by Dr. Wesley. Write to them at [email protected]. They had no relevant disclosures.
Resources
Gallup. “14% of Americans Say They Use CBD Products.” https://news.gallup.com/poll/263147/americans-say-cbd-products.aspx.
Project CBD. “What is CBD?” www.projectcbd.org/cbd-101-what-is-cbd.
Palmieri B et al. Clin Ter. 2019 Mar-Apr;170(2):e93-e99.
Jastrząb A et al. Cells. 2019 Aug 3;8(8).
Cannabidiol (CBD) seems to be everywhere now. Since the Farm Bill of 2018 legalizing the cultivation of hemp was signed into law last December, many CBD-based products have hit the market. The advent of and changed the public conversation about cannabis. That, and with the surge in legal availability, its use is more commonplace now – even in elderly populations and regions of the country where products thought to be associated with the marijuana plant would have once been considered taboo. A recent Gallup poll found that 14% of Americans say they now use CBD. As the benefits of CBD are demonstrated and perceptions change, having background knowledge of the manufacturing and available data on CBD will be helpful when patients ask about these products for skin care, to provide an evidenced-based approach.
CBD is one of over a hundred phytocannabinoids, which are naturally occurring cannabinoids found in the oily resin of the flower or “bud” (and to a lesser extent the leaves) of the cannabis plant. This is opposed to synthetic cannabinoids, as well as endocannabinoids (cannabinoid receptors found in humans and animals). Both CBD and THC (delta9-tetrahydrocannabinol), another phytocannabinoid, can provide anti-inflammatory and pain-control benefits; the main difference is that THC has psychoactive effects and CBD does not.
Cannabis is a genus of flowering plants in the Cannabaceae family, made up of three primary species: Cannabis sativa, Cannabis indica, and Cannabis ruderalis. CBD can be harvested from either Cannabis sativa or Cannabis indica. People often confuse hemp as equal to Cannabis sativa species and marijuana as equal to Cannabis indica, but neither hemp or marijuana are specific strains or species of cannabis plants, they are broad classifications of cannabis that do not indicate a specific strain.
Hemp, a term used to classify varieties of cannabis that contain trace amounts of THC, has generally been used to describe nonintoxicating cannabis harvested for the industrial use of its derived products, such as textiles, paper, food (hemp seeds), building materials, and skin care. While both “hemp” and “marijuana” can produce high amounts of CBD, CBD products sourced from hemp contain 0.3% THC or less (the legal allowance), while CBD products derived from “marijuana” typically contain 5%-35% THC. Since the 2018 Farm Act legalized the production of hemp in all 50 states, but not marijuana, most CBD nationwide is sourced from hemp. CBD from a marijuana source or a product containing both CBD and over 0.3% THC can only be sold in states where marijuana is legal. At this time, 11 states have legalized marijuana.
Marijuana varieties, grown to maximize the amount or quality of THC, are selectively bred in controlled environments designed to optimize the breed’s characteristics and produce female plants that yield budding flowers. In contrast, because of hemp’s diverse uses, it is grown to maximize its size and yield and is typically grown outdoors and does not require the level of control and attention needed to grow marijuana.
While there is some debate about whether CBD derived from hemp or marijuana differs, medical observations to date are that CBD derived from either source has the same mechanism of action; however, whether CBD has more therapeutic benefits in products alone or in combination with THC and other cannabis components remains to be determined. Of note, CBD is also absent in the roots or the seeds of cannabis and hemp. While hemp seeds are a good source of protein and omega-3 fatty acids, companies that claim they derive CBD from hemp stalk, hemp seeds, or hemp seed oil are making false claims because these parts of the plants contain no CBD, no THC, and no known plant cannabinoids.
CBD binds to endocannabinoid receptor CB2, whereas THC binds to both CB1 and CB2. CB1 receptors are primarily found in the central nervous system, affecting neurotransmitters leading to CNS depression, euphoria, psychosis, impaired memory, and increased appetite and have antiemetic effects, whereas CB2 is mostly found in peripheral organs and primarily affects the immune system resulting in decreased pain and anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects.
The skin has the highest amount and concentration of CB2 receptors in the body. As detailed in Dr. Leslie Baumann’s column “Primer on cannabis for cosmeceuticals” in Dermatology News, June 2019, skin-specific studies indicate that, when applied topically, CBD decreases sebum production and has anti-inflammatory effects. There is also evidence that CBD has antioxidant effects. Therefore, in the correct formulation, CBD may have potential in treating common sometimes debilitating skin conditions such as acne, as well as other inflammatory skin conditions.
For acne, beauty products containing CBD have the potential to help overall complexion and prevent acne scars. Because most degradation of collagen involves inflammation – whether the inflammation is secondary to excessive UV exposure, diet, poor health, or stress – the anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects also have potential benefit in treating and preventing signs of aging. Of note, the CB2 receptor has also been shown to be upregulated in melanoma and squamous cell carcinoma. In a recent study of keratinocytes irradiated with UVA and UVB light, CBD demonstrated antioxidant activity through nuclear factor erythroid 2–related factor 2 (Nrf2) activation, as well as anti-inflammatory properties as an inhibitor of the nuclear factor NF-kappa-B. Whether topical CBD can effectively prevent or treat cutaneous tumorigenesis is promising, but large scale data are still needed.
So far, the benefits of CBD in beauty products and topical skin formulations for treatment of skin disease are based on preclinical information, and there is a corresponding lack of high-quality randomized, controlled trials that evaluate their effects on skin-specific issues. Now, with the 2018 Farm Act in place, large-scale, randomized, controlled trials with cannabinoids should be able to be performed more easily to demonstrate the dermatologic benefits of this promising compound.
Dr. Wesley and Dr. Talakoub are cocontributors to this column. Dr. Wesley practices dermatology in Beverly Hills, Calif. Dr. Talakoub is in private practice in McLean, Va. This month’s column is by Dr. Wesley. Write to them at [email protected]. They had no relevant disclosures.
Resources
Gallup. “14% of Americans Say They Use CBD Products.” https://news.gallup.com/poll/263147/americans-say-cbd-products.aspx.
Project CBD. “What is CBD?” www.projectcbd.org/cbd-101-what-is-cbd.
Palmieri B et al. Clin Ter. 2019 Mar-Apr;170(2):e93-e99.
Jastrząb A et al. Cells. 2019 Aug 3;8(8).
Cannabidiol (CBD) seems to be everywhere now. Since the Farm Bill of 2018 legalizing the cultivation of hemp was signed into law last December, many CBD-based products have hit the market. The advent of and changed the public conversation about cannabis. That, and with the surge in legal availability, its use is more commonplace now – even in elderly populations and regions of the country where products thought to be associated with the marijuana plant would have once been considered taboo. A recent Gallup poll found that 14% of Americans say they now use CBD. As the benefits of CBD are demonstrated and perceptions change, having background knowledge of the manufacturing and available data on CBD will be helpful when patients ask about these products for skin care, to provide an evidenced-based approach.
CBD is one of over a hundred phytocannabinoids, which are naturally occurring cannabinoids found in the oily resin of the flower or “bud” (and to a lesser extent the leaves) of the cannabis plant. This is opposed to synthetic cannabinoids, as well as endocannabinoids (cannabinoid receptors found in humans and animals). Both CBD and THC (delta9-tetrahydrocannabinol), another phytocannabinoid, can provide anti-inflammatory and pain-control benefits; the main difference is that THC has psychoactive effects and CBD does not.
Cannabis is a genus of flowering plants in the Cannabaceae family, made up of three primary species: Cannabis sativa, Cannabis indica, and Cannabis ruderalis. CBD can be harvested from either Cannabis sativa or Cannabis indica. People often confuse hemp as equal to Cannabis sativa species and marijuana as equal to Cannabis indica, but neither hemp or marijuana are specific strains or species of cannabis plants, they are broad classifications of cannabis that do not indicate a specific strain.
Hemp, a term used to classify varieties of cannabis that contain trace amounts of THC, has generally been used to describe nonintoxicating cannabis harvested for the industrial use of its derived products, such as textiles, paper, food (hemp seeds), building materials, and skin care. While both “hemp” and “marijuana” can produce high amounts of CBD, CBD products sourced from hemp contain 0.3% THC or less (the legal allowance), while CBD products derived from “marijuana” typically contain 5%-35% THC. Since the 2018 Farm Act legalized the production of hemp in all 50 states, but not marijuana, most CBD nationwide is sourced from hemp. CBD from a marijuana source or a product containing both CBD and over 0.3% THC can only be sold in states where marijuana is legal. At this time, 11 states have legalized marijuana.
Marijuana varieties, grown to maximize the amount or quality of THC, are selectively bred in controlled environments designed to optimize the breed’s characteristics and produce female plants that yield budding flowers. In contrast, because of hemp’s diverse uses, it is grown to maximize its size and yield and is typically grown outdoors and does not require the level of control and attention needed to grow marijuana.
While there is some debate about whether CBD derived from hemp or marijuana differs, medical observations to date are that CBD derived from either source has the same mechanism of action; however, whether CBD has more therapeutic benefits in products alone or in combination with THC and other cannabis components remains to be determined. Of note, CBD is also absent in the roots or the seeds of cannabis and hemp. While hemp seeds are a good source of protein and omega-3 fatty acids, companies that claim they derive CBD from hemp stalk, hemp seeds, or hemp seed oil are making false claims because these parts of the plants contain no CBD, no THC, and no known plant cannabinoids.
CBD binds to endocannabinoid receptor CB2, whereas THC binds to both CB1 and CB2. CB1 receptors are primarily found in the central nervous system, affecting neurotransmitters leading to CNS depression, euphoria, psychosis, impaired memory, and increased appetite and have antiemetic effects, whereas CB2 is mostly found in peripheral organs and primarily affects the immune system resulting in decreased pain and anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects.
The skin has the highest amount and concentration of CB2 receptors in the body. As detailed in Dr. Leslie Baumann’s column “Primer on cannabis for cosmeceuticals” in Dermatology News, June 2019, skin-specific studies indicate that, when applied topically, CBD decreases sebum production and has anti-inflammatory effects. There is also evidence that CBD has antioxidant effects. Therefore, in the correct formulation, CBD may have potential in treating common sometimes debilitating skin conditions such as acne, as well as other inflammatory skin conditions.
For acne, beauty products containing CBD have the potential to help overall complexion and prevent acne scars. Because most degradation of collagen involves inflammation – whether the inflammation is secondary to excessive UV exposure, diet, poor health, or stress – the anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects also have potential benefit in treating and preventing signs of aging. Of note, the CB2 receptor has also been shown to be upregulated in melanoma and squamous cell carcinoma. In a recent study of keratinocytes irradiated with UVA and UVB light, CBD demonstrated antioxidant activity through nuclear factor erythroid 2–related factor 2 (Nrf2) activation, as well as anti-inflammatory properties as an inhibitor of the nuclear factor NF-kappa-B. Whether topical CBD can effectively prevent or treat cutaneous tumorigenesis is promising, but large scale data are still needed.
So far, the benefits of CBD in beauty products and topical skin formulations for treatment of skin disease are based on preclinical information, and there is a corresponding lack of high-quality randomized, controlled trials that evaluate their effects on skin-specific issues. Now, with the 2018 Farm Act in place, large-scale, randomized, controlled trials with cannabinoids should be able to be performed more easily to demonstrate the dermatologic benefits of this promising compound.
Dr. Wesley and Dr. Talakoub are cocontributors to this column. Dr. Wesley practices dermatology in Beverly Hills, Calif. Dr. Talakoub is in private practice in McLean, Va. This month’s column is by Dr. Wesley. Write to them at [email protected]. They had no relevant disclosures.
Resources
Gallup. “14% of Americans Say They Use CBD Products.” https://news.gallup.com/poll/263147/americans-say-cbd-products.aspx.
Project CBD. “What is CBD?” www.projectcbd.org/cbd-101-what-is-cbd.
Palmieri B et al. Clin Ter. 2019 Mar-Apr;170(2):e93-e99.
Jastrząb A et al. Cells. 2019 Aug 3;8(8).
Longer-lasting neuromodulators coming down the pike
SAN DIEGO – In the coming years, expect to see an increasing number of neuromodulators hit the market, Joel L. Cohen, MD, predicted at the annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium.
One such product, DaxibotulinumtoxinA (Daxi), formerly known as RT002, contains a proprietary peptide that may contribute to extending its duration of action beyond currently available neuromodulator products. “Another difference for Daxi is that it does not contain human serum albumin,” said Dr. Cohen, who’s in private practice in Greenwood Village and Lone Tree, both in Colo.
In trials of the agent conducted by Revance, the manufacturer, for the treatment of moderate to severe glabellar lines, DaxibotulinumtoxinA achieved a 1-point change in results from baseline in a median of 24 weeks, while the return to baseline wrinkle severity occurred in a median of 28 weeks. According to the Revance web site, DaxibotulinumtoxinA is up for possible Food and Drug Administration approval in 2020.
Though current neuromodulators on the market may be most effective for 3-4 months, the reality is that patients often don’t come in for longer stretches of time – as there is still some degree of efficacy. Dr. Cohen shared interim data from an ongoing study that showed that at 6 months 69% of patients remain satisfied with the result of their last injection. “With Dysport, for example, even though we know the durability is to 3-4 months, we have patients who may still be happy with the results at 6 months,” he said.
Another trend he discussed is the increasing interest in QM1114, a novel, ready-to-use type A botulinum toxin formulation being developed by Galderma for the aesthetic treatment of glabellar lines. Unlike Botox, Dysport, Xeomin, and Jueveau, QM1114 is a liquid and thus does not require reconstitution.
“Myobloc is also a liquid but it is a type B botulinum toxin,” Dr. Cohen said. “It’s always been formulated as a liquid toxin, but it’s not something we can use commonly in our aesthetic practices [unless a patient is suspected of having extremely rare type A antibodies] for many reasons beyond simply it not being approved for aesthetic use. Though Myobloc kicks in faster, it spreads more, it hurts more, and it doesn’t last as long.”
In a phase 2 study presented at the 2019 World Congress of Dermatology, investigators, including Dr. Cohen, evaluated the safety and efficacy of QM1114 for the treatment of glabellar lines in 359 patients aged 23-79 years. Patients were randomly assigned to one of three single-treatment groups – 35 units, 45 units, or 60 units – or to placebo. Two weeks post treatment, wrinkle severity improved by at least two grades based on the assessment of investigators (a range from 83%-91%) and by that of treated subjects (a range from 73%-86%), compared with 6% and 8%, respectively, in the placebo group. In addition, 90%-98% of subjects rated themselves as “very satisfied” or “satisfied” with the treatment at month 1, compared with 72%-80% of subjects at month 6. Treatment-related adverse events occurred in little more than 1% of subjects in any QM1114 group and presented as mild to moderate injection-site pain, headache, eyelid ptosis, injection-site pruritus, injection-site swelling, and eyelid edema.
Dr. Cohen reported having research and financial ties to numerous pharmaceutical and device companies including Merz, Galderma, Allergan, Revance, Evolus, and Croma.
SAN DIEGO – In the coming years, expect to see an increasing number of neuromodulators hit the market, Joel L. Cohen, MD, predicted at the annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium.
One such product, DaxibotulinumtoxinA (Daxi), formerly known as RT002, contains a proprietary peptide that may contribute to extending its duration of action beyond currently available neuromodulator products. “Another difference for Daxi is that it does not contain human serum albumin,” said Dr. Cohen, who’s in private practice in Greenwood Village and Lone Tree, both in Colo.
In trials of the agent conducted by Revance, the manufacturer, for the treatment of moderate to severe glabellar lines, DaxibotulinumtoxinA achieved a 1-point change in results from baseline in a median of 24 weeks, while the return to baseline wrinkle severity occurred in a median of 28 weeks. According to the Revance web site, DaxibotulinumtoxinA is up for possible Food and Drug Administration approval in 2020.
Though current neuromodulators on the market may be most effective for 3-4 months, the reality is that patients often don’t come in for longer stretches of time – as there is still some degree of efficacy. Dr. Cohen shared interim data from an ongoing study that showed that at 6 months 69% of patients remain satisfied with the result of their last injection. “With Dysport, for example, even though we know the durability is to 3-4 months, we have patients who may still be happy with the results at 6 months,” he said.
Another trend he discussed is the increasing interest in QM1114, a novel, ready-to-use type A botulinum toxin formulation being developed by Galderma for the aesthetic treatment of glabellar lines. Unlike Botox, Dysport, Xeomin, and Jueveau, QM1114 is a liquid and thus does not require reconstitution.
“Myobloc is also a liquid but it is a type B botulinum toxin,” Dr. Cohen said. “It’s always been formulated as a liquid toxin, but it’s not something we can use commonly in our aesthetic practices [unless a patient is suspected of having extremely rare type A antibodies] for many reasons beyond simply it not being approved for aesthetic use. Though Myobloc kicks in faster, it spreads more, it hurts more, and it doesn’t last as long.”
In a phase 2 study presented at the 2019 World Congress of Dermatology, investigators, including Dr. Cohen, evaluated the safety and efficacy of QM1114 for the treatment of glabellar lines in 359 patients aged 23-79 years. Patients were randomly assigned to one of three single-treatment groups – 35 units, 45 units, or 60 units – or to placebo. Two weeks post treatment, wrinkle severity improved by at least two grades based on the assessment of investigators (a range from 83%-91%) and by that of treated subjects (a range from 73%-86%), compared with 6% and 8%, respectively, in the placebo group. In addition, 90%-98% of subjects rated themselves as “very satisfied” or “satisfied” with the treatment at month 1, compared with 72%-80% of subjects at month 6. Treatment-related adverse events occurred in little more than 1% of subjects in any QM1114 group and presented as mild to moderate injection-site pain, headache, eyelid ptosis, injection-site pruritus, injection-site swelling, and eyelid edema.
Dr. Cohen reported having research and financial ties to numerous pharmaceutical and device companies including Merz, Galderma, Allergan, Revance, Evolus, and Croma.
SAN DIEGO – In the coming years, expect to see an increasing number of neuromodulators hit the market, Joel L. Cohen, MD, predicted at the annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium.
One such product, DaxibotulinumtoxinA (Daxi), formerly known as RT002, contains a proprietary peptide that may contribute to extending its duration of action beyond currently available neuromodulator products. “Another difference for Daxi is that it does not contain human serum albumin,” said Dr. Cohen, who’s in private practice in Greenwood Village and Lone Tree, both in Colo.
In trials of the agent conducted by Revance, the manufacturer, for the treatment of moderate to severe glabellar lines, DaxibotulinumtoxinA achieved a 1-point change in results from baseline in a median of 24 weeks, while the return to baseline wrinkle severity occurred in a median of 28 weeks. According to the Revance web site, DaxibotulinumtoxinA is up for possible Food and Drug Administration approval in 2020.
Though current neuromodulators on the market may be most effective for 3-4 months, the reality is that patients often don’t come in for longer stretches of time – as there is still some degree of efficacy. Dr. Cohen shared interim data from an ongoing study that showed that at 6 months 69% of patients remain satisfied with the result of their last injection. “With Dysport, for example, even though we know the durability is to 3-4 months, we have patients who may still be happy with the results at 6 months,” he said.
Another trend he discussed is the increasing interest in QM1114, a novel, ready-to-use type A botulinum toxin formulation being developed by Galderma for the aesthetic treatment of glabellar lines. Unlike Botox, Dysport, Xeomin, and Jueveau, QM1114 is a liquid and thus does not require reconstitution.
“Myobloc is also a liquid but it is a type B botulinum toxin,” Dr. Cohen said. “It’s always been formulated as a liquid toxin, but it’s not something we can use commonly in our aesthetic practices [unless a patient is suspected of having extremely rare type A antibodies] for many reasons beyond simply it not being approved for aesthetic use. Though Myobloc kicks in faster, it spreads more, it hurts more, and it doesn’t last as long.”
In a phase 2 study presented at the 2019 World Congress of Dermatology, investigators, including Dr. Cohen, evaluated the safety and efficacy of QM1114 for the treatment of glabellar lines in 359 patients aged 23-79 years. Patients were randomly assigned to one of three single-treatment groups – 35 units, 45 units, or 60 units – or to placebo. Two weeks post treatment, wrinkle severity improved by at least two grades based on the assessment of investigators (a range from 83%-91%) and by that of treated subjects (a range from 73%-86%), compared with 6% and 8%, respectively, in the placebo group. In addition, 90%-98% of subjects rated themselves as “very satisfied” or “satisfied” with the treatment at month 1, compared with 72%-80% of subjects at month 6. Treatment-related adverse events occurred in little more than 1% of subjects in any QM1114 group and presented as mild to moderate injection-site pain, headache, eyelid ptosis, injection-site pruritus, injection-site swelling, and eyelid edema.
Dr. Cohen reported having research and financial ties to numerous pharmaceutical and device companies including Merz, Galderma, Allergan, Revance, Evolus, and Croma.
EXPERT ANALYSIS FROM MOA 2019
Morinda citrifolia (Noni) tree: Many names, even more applications
, which has been in use on the islands for two millennia.1-4 The plant, found abundantly in Southeast Asia, Australia, the Pacific Basin, and the Caribbean, is called Great Morinda or cheese fruit in Australia, Nono in Tahiti, Indian Mulberry in India, and Ba ji tian in China.4-6 It is also deployed for a wide range of health purposes in Brazil.7
Noni has been credited with conferring various salutary benefits against arthritis, diabetes, fever, gingivitis, headaches, infections, inflammation, respiratory illnesses, and tuberculosis.3,8 In alternative medicine, the fruit juice, which has been found to be safe, is used for multiple indications, with a slew of studies presenting evidence for anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and apoptosis-inducing benefits against cancer.5,6 All parts of M. citrifolia – leaves, fruits, roots, bark, flowers, and seeds – have been used in traditional medical practices.8 This column will focus on recent research into the broad array of biologic activities attributed to the plant and possible dermatologic uses.
Diverse biologic properties
In 2007, Nayak et al. showed that the juice of M. citrifolia fruit significantly lowered sugar levels in diabetic rats and facilitated their wound healing.1
Three years later, Thani et al. determined that the leaves of M. citrifolia exert antiproliferative and antioxidative activities, with chemopreventive benefits seen against epidermoid and cervical cancers.9
In 2011, Serafini et al. confirmed the antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antinociceptive qualities of the aqueous extract from M. citrifolia leaves, with the extract shown to significantly lower leukocyte migration in doses of 200 and 400 mg/kg. Mild antibacterial properties were seen as was an antinociceptive effect at the higher dose in the acetic-acid-induced writhing test.3
A comprehensive literature review in 2017 by Torres et al. identified a varied and extensive list of biological activities of M. citrifolia, including immunostimulatory, antitumor, antidiabetic, antiobesity, antibacterial and antiseptic, antifungal, antiviral, anti-inflammatory, antinociceptive and analgesic, antioxidant, neuroprotective, wound healing, antiallergic, photoprotective, and antiwrinkle among several others. Despite its use in disease prevention and treatment around the world, the researchers call for more in vitro and in vivo models in addition to clinical trials to further examine the health benefits of Noni.7
Early in 2019, De La Cruz-Sánchez et al. determined that the methanolic extract of M. citrifolia displayed marked activity against methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus (MRSA), thus supporting its continuing applications in traditional medical practice.2
Photoprotection and antiaging potential
Based on their prior work demonstrating that M. citrifolia fruit upregulates the production of type I collagen and glycosaminoglycans in primary cultures of normal human fibroblasts, Kim et al. isolated anthraquinone from the fruit and showed that it dose-dependently decreased the expression of collagenase matrix metalloproteinase-1 in human dermal fibroblasts. The investigators also found that an anthraquinone-containing nano-emulsion raised type I procollagen in nude mouse skin. They concluded, in this 2005 study, that Noni extract warrants consideration as an antiwrinkle agent given its proclivity to induce the production of collagen.10
In 2009, West et al. assessed a carbomer gel base containing the ethanol extract and juice pressed from Noni leaves for possible allergenic activity in a repeat-insult patch test in 49 volunteers. They also used a UVB-induced erythema model in 25 subjects to test the topical photoprotective potential of the ethanol extract and leaf juice. The investigators reported no allergic potential evinced by the patch tests, and in a histamine H-1 receptor antagonism assay, the leaves hindered receptor binding by 57%, suggesting anti-inflammatory activity. In the UVB test, the dose necessary to engender erythema was nearly 3.5 times higher than in untreated skin. The team concluded that M. citrifolia leaves are safe for topical application and show promise in lessening UVB-induced skin damage.11
A 2014 study on mice by Serafini et al. showed that the dorsal skin of mice treated for 7 days with topical M. citrifolia was protected from damage by exposure to UVA-UVB radiation as measured by skin thickness, transepidermal water loss, erythema, and histological changes.12
Conclusion
Morinda citrifolia has been used in traditional medicine for at least 2,000 years. Its reported list of uses covers an impressive gamut of indications.
Modern medicine is beginning to catch up with new research conducted on this copious and beloved plant. That said, much more data, particularly from human clinical trials, are necessary to elucidate the most appropriate dermatologic roles for M. citrifolia. I just started growing a Noni tree in my yard because some patients have reported using it on their skin. I will report back and let you know how it goes. It is flowering now!
Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur who practices in Miami. She founded the Cosmetic Dermatology Center at the University of Miami in 1997. Dr. Baumann wrote two textbooks: “Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice” (New York: McGraw-Hill, 2002), and “Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients” (New York: McGraw-Hill, 2014), and a New York Times Best Sellers book for consumers, “The Skin Type Solution” (New York: Bantam Dell, 2006). Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Evolus, Galderma, and Revance. She is the founder and CEO of Skin Type Solutions Franchise Systems LLC. Write to her at [email protected].
References
1. Nayak BS et al. J Wound Care. 2007 Feb;16(2):83-6.
2. De La Cruz-Sánchez NG et al. Microb Pathog. 2019 Mar;128:347-53.
3. Serafini MR et al. J Med Food. 2011 Oct;14(10):1159-66.
4. Wang MY, Su C. Ann N Y Acad Sci. 2001 Dec;952:161-8.
5. Gupta RK, Patel AK. Asian Pac J Cancer Prev. 2013;14(8):4495-9.
6. Brown AC. Phytother Res. 2012 Oct;26(10):1427-40.
7. Torres MAO et al. Phytother Res. 2017 Jul;31(7):971-9.
8. Potterat O, Hamburger M. Planta Med. 2007 Mar;73(3):191-9.
9. Thani W et al. Southeast Asian J Trop Med Public Health. 2010 Mar;41(2):482-9.
10. Kim SW et al. J Med Food. 2005 Winter;8(4):552-5.
11. West BJ et al. J Nat Med. 2009 Jul;63(3):351-4.
12. Serafini MR et al. Biomed Res Int. 2014;2014:587819. doi: 10.1155/2014/587819.
, which has been in use on the islands for two millennia.1-4 The plant, found abundantly in Southeast Asia, Australia, the Pacific Basin, and the Caribbean, is called Great Morinda or cheese fruit in Australia, Nono in Tahiti, Indian Mulberry in India, and Ba ji tian in China.4-6 It is also deployed for a wide range of health purposes in Brazil.7
Noni has been credited with conferring various salutary benefits against arthritis, diabetes, fever, gingivitis, headaches, infections, inflammation, respiratory illnesses, and tuberculosis.3,8 In alternative medicine, the fruit juice, which has been found to be safe, is used for multiple indications, with a slew of studies presenting evidence for anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and apoptosis-inducing benefits against cancer.5,6 All parts of M. citrifolia – leaves, fruits, roots, bark, flowers, and seeds – have been used in traditional medical practices.8 This column will focus on recent research into the broad array of biologic activities attributed to the plant and possible dermatologic uses.
Diverse biologic properties
In 2007, Nayak et al. showed that the juice of M. citrifolia fruit significantly lowered sugar levels in diabetic rats and facilitated their wound healing.1
Three years later, Thani et al. determined that the leaves of M. citrifolia exert antiproliferative and antioxidative activities, with chemopreventive benefits seen against epidermoid and cervical cancers.9
In 2011, Serafini et al. confirmed the antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antinociceptive qualities of the aqueous extract from M. citrifolia leaves, with the extract shown to significantly lower leukocyte migration in doses of 200 and 400 mg/kg. Mild antibacterial properties were seen as was an antinociceptive effect at the higher dose in the acetic-acid-induced writhing test.3
A comprehensive literature review in 2017 by Torres et al. identified a varied and extensive list of biological activities of M. citrifolia, including immunostimulatory, antitumor, antidiabetic, antiobesity, antibacterial and antiseptic, antifungal, antiviral, anti-inflammatory, antinociceptive and analgesic, antioxidant, neuroprotective, wound healing, antiallergic, photoprotective, and antiwrinkle among several others. Despite its use in disease prevention and treatment around the world, the researchers call for more in vitro and in vivo models in addition to clinical trials to further examine the health benefits of Noni.7
Early in 2019, De La Cruz-Sánchez et al. determined that the methanolic extract of M. citrifolia displayed marked activity against methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus (MRSA), thus supporting its continuing applications in traditional medical practice.2
Photoprotection and antiaging potential
Based on their prior work demonstrating that M. citrifolia fruit upregulates the production of type I collagen and glycosaminoglycans in primary cultures of normal human fibroblasts, Kim et al. isolated anthraquinone from the fruit and showed that it dose-dependently decreased the expression of collagenase matrix metalloproteinase-1 in human dermal fibroblasts. The investigators also found that an anthraquinone-containing nano-emulsion raised type I procollagen in nude mouse skin. They concluded, in this 2005 study, that Noni extract warrants consideration as an antiwrinkle agent given its proclivity to induce the production of collagen.10
In 2009, West et al. assessed a carbomer gel base containing the ethanol extract and juice pressed from Noni leaves for possible allergenic activity in a repeat-insult patch test in 49 volunteers. They also used a UVB-induced erythema model in 25 subjects to test the topical photoprotective potential of the ethanol extract and leaf juice. The investigators reported no allergic potential evinced by the patch tests, and in a histamine H-1 receptor antagonism assay, the leaves hindered receptor binding by 57%, suggesting anti-inflammatory activity. In the UVB test, the dose necessary to engender erythema was nearly 3.5 times higher than in untreated skin. The team concluded that M. citrifolia leaves are safe for topical application and show promise in lessening UVB-induced skin damage.11
A 2014 study on mice by Serafini et al. showed that the dorsal skin of mice treated for 7 days with topical M. citrifolia was protected from damage by exposure to UVA-UVB radiation as measured by skin thickness, transepidermal water loss, erythema, and histological changes.12
Conclusion
Morinda citrifolia has been used in traditional medicine for at least 2,000 years. Its reported list of uses covers an impressive gamut of indications.
Modern medicine is beginning to catch up with new research conducted on this copious and beloved plant. That said, much more data, particularly from human clinical trials, are necessary to elucidate the most appropriate dermatologic roles for M. citrifolia. I just started growing a Noni tree in my yard because some patients have reported using it on their skin. I will report back and let you know how it goes. It is flowering now!
Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur who practices in Miami. She founded the Cosmetic Dermatology Center at the University of Miami in 1997. Dr. Baumann wrote two textbooks: “Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice” (New York: McGraw-Hill, 2002), and “Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients” (New York: McGraw-Hill, 2014), and a New York Times Best Sellers book for consumers, “The Skin Type Solution” (New York: Bantam Dell, 2006). Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Evolus, Galderma, and Revance. She is the founder and CEO of Skin Type Solutions Franchise Systems LLC. Write to her at [email protected].
References
1. Nayak BS et al. J Wound Care. 2007 Feb;16(2):83-6.
2. De La Cruz-Sánchez NG et al. Microb Pathog. 2019 Mar;128:347-53.
3. Serafini MR et al. J Med Food. 2011 Oct;14(10):1159-66.
4. Wang MY, Su C. Ann N Y Acad Sci. 2001 Dec;952:161-8.
5. Gupta RK, Patel AK. Asian Pac J Cancer Prev. 2013;14(8):4495-9.
6. Brown AC. Phytother Res. 2012 Oct;26(10):1427-40.
7. Torres MAO et al. Phytother Res. 2017 Jul;31(7):971-9.
8. Potterat O, Hamburger M. Planta Med. 2007 Mar;73(3):191-9.
9. Thani W et al. Southeast Asian J Trop Med Public Health. 2010 Mar;41(2):482-9.
10. Kim SW et al. J Med Food. 2005 Winter;8(4):552-5.
11. West BJ et al. J Nat Med. 2009 Jul;63(3):351-4.
12. Serafini MR et al. Biomed Res Int. 2014;2014:587819. doi: 10.1155/2014/587819.
, which has been in use on the islands for two millennia.1-4 The plant, found abundantly in Southeast Asia, Australia, the Pacific Basin, and the Caribbean, is called Great Morinda or cheese fruit in Australia, Nono in Tahiti, Indian Mulberry in India, and Ba ji tian in China.4-6 It is also deployed for a wide range of health purposes in Brazil.7
Noni has been credited with conferring various salutary benefits against arthritis, diabetes, fever, gingivitis, headaches, infections, inflammation, respiratory illnesses, and tuberculosis.3,8 In alternative medicine, the fruit juice, which has been found to be safe, is used for multiple indications, with a slew of studies presenting evidence for anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and apoptosis-inducing benefits against cancer.5,6 All parts of M. citrifolia – leaves, fruits, roots, bark, flowers, and seeds – have been used in traditional medical practices.8 This column will focus on recent research into the broad array of biologic activities attributed to the plant and possible dermatologic uses.
Diverse biologic properties
In 2007, Nayak et al. showed that the juice of M. citrifolia fruit significantly lowered sugar levels in diabetic rats and facilitated their wound healing.1
Three years later, Thani et al. determined that the leaves of M. citrifolia exert antiproliferative and antioxidative activities, with chemopreventive benefits seen against epidermoid and cervical cancers.9
In 2011, Serafini et al. confirmed the antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antinociceptive qualities of the aqueous extract from M. citrifolia leaves, with the extract shown to significantly lower leukocyte migration in doses of 200 and 400 mg/kg. Mild antibacterial properties were seen as was an antinociceptive effect at the higher dose in the acetic-acid-induced writhing test.3
A comprehensive literature review in 2017 by Torres et al. identified a varied and extensive list of biological activities of M. citrifolia, including immunostimulatory, antitumor, antidiabetic, antiobesity, antibacterial and antiseptic, antifungal, antiviral, anti-inflammatory, antinociceptive and analgesic, antioxidant, neuroprotective, wound healing, antiallergic, photoprotective, and antiwrinkle among several others. Despite its use in disease prevention and treatment around the world, the researchers call for more in vitro and in vivo models in addition to clinical trials to further examine the health benefits of Noni.7
Early in 2019, De La Cruz-Sánchez et al. determined that the methanolic extract of M. citrifolia displayed marked activity against methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus (MRSA), thus supporting its continuing applications in traditional medical practice.2
Photoprotection and antiaging potential
Based on their prior work demonstrating that M. citrifolia fruit upregulates the production of type I collagen and glycosaminoglycans in primary cultures of normal human fibroblasts, Kim et al. isolated anthraquinone from the fruit and showed that it dose-dependently decreased the expression of collagenase matrix metalloproteinase-1 in human dermal fibroblasts. The investigators also found that an anthraquinone-containing nano-emulsion raised type I procollagen in nude mouse skin. They concluded, in this 2005 study, that Noni extract warrants consideration as an antiwrinkle agent given its proclivity to induce the production of collagen.10
In 2009, West et al. assessed a carbomer gel base containing the ethanol extract and juice pressed from Noni leaves for possible allergenic activity in a repeat-insult patch test in 49 volunteers. They also used a UVB-induced erythema model in 25 subjects to test the topical photoprotective potential of the ethanol extract and leaf juice. The investigators reported no allergic potential evinced by the patch tests, and in a histamine H-1 receptor antagonism assay, the leaves hindered receptor binding by 57%, suggesting anti-inflammatory activity. In the UVB test, the dose necessary to engender erythema was nearly 3.5 times higher than in untreated skin. The team concluded that M. citrifolia leaves are safe for topical application and show promise in lessening UVB-induced skin damage.11
A 2014 study on mice by Serafini et al. showed that the dorsal skin of mice treated for 7 days with topical M. citrifolia was protected from damage by exposure to UVA-UVB radiation as measured by skin thickness, transepidermal water loss, erythema, and histological changes.12
Conclusion
Morinda citrifolia has been used in traditional medicine for at least 2,000 years. Its reported list of uses covers an impressive gamut of indications.
Modern medicine is beginning to catch up with new research conducted on this copious and beloved plant. That said, much more data, particularly from human clinical trials, are necessary to elucidate the most appropriate dermatologic roles for M. citrifolia. I just started growing a Noni tree in my yard because some patients have reported using it on their skin. I will report back and let you know how it goes. It is flowering now!
Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur who practices in Miami. She founded the Cosmetic Dermatology Center at the University of Miami in 1997. Dr. Baumann wrote two textbooks: “Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice” (New York: McGraw-Hill, 2002), and “Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients” (New York: McGraw-Hill, 2014), and a New York Times Best Sellers book for consumers, “The Skin Type Solution” (New York: Bantam Dell, 2006). Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Evolus, Galderma, and Revance. She is the founder and CEO of Skin Type Solutions Franchise Systems LLC. Write to her at [email protected].
References
1. Nayak BS et al. J Wound Care. 2007 Feb;16(2):83-6.
2. De La Cruz-Sánchez NG et al. Microb Pathog. 2019 Mar;128:347-53.
3. Serafini MR et al. J Med Food. 2011 Oct;14(10):1159-66.
4. Wang MY, Su C. Ann N Y Acad Sci. 2001 Dec;952:161-8.
5. Gupta RK, Patel AK. Asian Pac J Cancer Prev. 2013;14(8):4495-9.
6. Brown AC. Phytother Res. 2012 Oct;26(10):1427-40.
7. Torres MAO et al. Phytother Res. 2017 Jul;31(7):971-9.
8. Potterat O, Hamburger M. Planta Med. 2007 Mar;73(3):191-9.
9. Thani W et al. Southeast Asian J Trop Med Public Health. 2010 Mar;41(2):482-9.
10. Kim SW et al. J Med Food. 2005 Winter;8(4):552-5.
11. West BJ et al. J Nat Med. 2009 Jul;63(3):351-4.
12. Serafini MR et al. Biomed Res Int. 2014;2014:587819. doi: 10.1155/2014/587819.
Expert shares tips for laser hair removal prior to gender reassignment surgery
SAN DIEGO – prior to undergoing the procedures.
“In the last year, in terms of hair removal, this has been the biggest change in my practice,” Mathew M. Avram, MD, JD, said at the annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium.
R. Rox Anderson, MD, director of the Wellman Center for Photomedicine at Massachusetts General Hospital, and Melanie Grossman, MD, who practices in New York City, developed laser hair removal in the 1990s, and today laser hair removal stands as the most common laser treatment in medicine, said Dr. Avram, director of laser, cosmetics, and dermatologic surgery at Massachusetts General Hospital, Boston. He described it as “safe and effective in skilled hands,” requiring about six treatments. Indications are for hypertrichosis, hirsutism (sometimes in the setting of polycystic ovary syndrome), pseudofolliculitis barbae, pilonidal cysts, and gender reassignment surgery.
Laser hair removal works by the extended theory of selective photothermolysis. “You’re targeting by proxy,” Dr. Avram explained. “The laser targets eumelanin in darkly pigmented hairs, with the secondary target being the follicular stem cells. Pigment is a prerequisite for effective treatment. So if there is no pigment in the hair, with current technology, it’s not going to work.”
He advises clinicians to avoid a cookbook approach to fluences when performing laser hair removal. Even though higher fluences have been correlated with greater permanent hair removal, they are also more likely to cause unexpected side effects. “The recommended treatment fluences are often provided with each individual laser device for nonexperienced operators, but I would not recommend doing that,” he said. “You want to evaluate for the desired clinical endpoint of perifollicular erythema and edema. The highest possible tolerated fluence, which yields this endpoint, without any adverse effects, is often the best fluence for treatment.” In 2016, Dr. Avram and his colleagues published a paper that focuses on desirable and therapeutic endpoints when performing laser and light treatments (J Am Acad Dermatol 2016;74[5]:821-33).
The best candidates for laser hair removal are those with light skin color and dark hair. “The more pigment that’s in the hair, the more it’s going to absorb the energy,” he said. Coarse, thick hair responds better than thin vellus hairs, and blond, gray hairs do not respond. A new silver nanoparticle technology is being developed that may improve efficacy for people with blond or gray hair in the future. “Modest initial data showed that it works, but it requires several treatments,” Dr. Avram said.
A past president of the American Society for Laser Medicine and Surgery, Dr. Avram went on to note that laser hair removal is often delegated to nonphysicians and is the most common cause of lawsuits for laser injury. “The rates of lawsuits rise dramatically when delegated to nonphysicians,” he said. “They even rise higher when performed by nonphysicians without supervision such as in medi-spas. Some of the side effects when performed by nonexperienced users can include temporary hyperpigmentation and longterm hypopigmentation.”
One of his clinical pearls is to never perform laser hair removal on suntanned individuals (“you will get obvious, bizarre-appearing hypopigmentation,” he said) and to exercise caution in patients with darker skin types. “If you do a test spot, give it a couple of weeks to see if hyperpigmentation develops,” he advised. “However, their sun exposure may change, and the area you treat with a test spot may be different than the entire area you intend to treat, so don’t think that a test spot is going to guarantee a particular result. You also have to be aware of paradoxical hypertrichosis, where you get more hair growth rather than less.”
Laser hair removal is mandatory prior to neovaginoplasty surgery. Surgeons use skin from the penile shaft and the midscrotum to create the new vagina, Dr. Avram said, so all hair must be removed prior to surgery so that the inside of the new vagina will be free of hair.
“You can use laser or electrolysis for this,” he said. “Electrolysis takes a lot more treatments and is going to be much more tedious than laser hair removal.” Areas to be targeted include all hair on the scrotum and all hair on the penile shaft, plus one inch around the base. “In the perineum, you want to remove hair from the bottom of the scrotum to one inch above the anus in order to clear a 2.5-inch-wide strip,” he said.
For a phalloplasty, surgeons use skin from the underside of arm to create a urethra. This means that all hair should be removed from the crease of the wrist to 15-18 cm up the arm. “You treat the underside of the arm at 4 cm distally and 5.5 cm proximally,” Dr. Avram said. “It should be 15-18 cm in length, and you cannot have any hair that remains within the new urethra.”
To create a penis, surgeons use skin from the prone arm and around. This requires removing hair at 10 cm distally, 13 cm proximally, and 14 cm in length.
Dr. Avram emphasized the importance of patient and staff education and use of preferred pronouns when performing laser hair removal on patients prior to their gender reassignment surgery. “It requires an explanation that this requires multiple treatments and will not remove all hair,” he said. “You can work with an experienced electrologist for nonresponsive hair.”
Dr. Avram disclosed that he has received consulting fees from Allergan, Merz, Sciton, Soliton, and Zalea. He also reported having ownership and/or shareholder interest in Cytrellis, Invasix, and Zalea and intellectual property rights with Cytrellis.
SAN DIEGO – prior to undergoing the procedures.
“In the last year, in terms of hair removal, this has been the biggest change in my practice,” Mathew M. Avram, MD, JD, said at the annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium.
R. Rox Anderson, MD, director of the Wellman Center for Photomedicine at Massachusetts General Hospital, and Melanie Grossman, MD, who practices in New York City, developed laser hair removal in the 1990s, and today laser hair removal stands as the most common laser treatment in medicine, said Dr. Avram, director of laser, cosmetics, and dermatologic surgery at Massachusetts General Hospital, Boston. He described it as “safe and effective in skilled hands,” requiring about six treatments. Indications are for hypertrichosis, hirsutism (sometimes in the setting of polycystic ovary syndrome), pseudofolliculitis barbae, pilonidal cysts, and gender reassignment surgery.
Laser hair removal works by the extended theory of selective photothermolysis. “You’re targeting by proxy,” Dr. Avram explained. “The laser targets eumelanin in darkly pigmented hairs, with the secondary target being the follicular stem cells. Pigment is a prerequisite for effective treatment. So if there is no pigment in the hair, with current technology, it’s not going to work.”
He advises clinicians to avoid a cookbook approach to fluences when performing laser hair removal. Even though higher fluences have been correlated with greater permanent hair removal, they are also more likely to cause unexpected side effects. “The recommended treatment fluences are often provided with each individual laser device for nonexperienced operators, but I would not recommend doing that,” he said. “You want to evaluate for the desired clinical endpoint of perifollicular erythema and edema. The highest possible tolerated fluence, which yields this endpoint, without any adverse effects, is often the best fluence for treatment.” In 2016, Dr. Avram and his colleagues published a paper that focuses on desirable and therapeutic endpoints when performing laser and light treatments (J Am Acad Dermatol 2016;74[5]:821-33).
The best candidates for laser hair removal are those with light skin color and dark hair. “The more pigment that’s in the hair, the more it’s going to absorb the energy,” he said. Coarse, thick hair responds better than thin vellus hairs, and blond, gray hairs do not respond. A new silver nanoparticle technology is being developed that may improve efficacy for people with blond or gray hair in the future. “Modest initial data showed that it works, but it requires several treatments,” Dr. Avram said.
A past president of the American Society for Laser Medicine and Surgery, Dr. Avram went on to note that laser hair removal is often delegated to nonphysicians and is the most common cause of lawsuits for laser injury. “The rates of lawsuits rise dramatically when delegated to nonphysicians,” he said. “They even rise higher when performed by nonphysicians without supervision such as in medi-spas. Some of the side effects when performed by nonexperienced users can include temporary hyperpigmentation and longterm hypopigmentation.”
One of his clinical pearls is to never perform laser hair removal on suntanned individuals (“you will get obvious, bizarre-appearing hypopigmentation,” he said) and to exercise caution in patients with darker skin types. “If you do a test spot, give it a couple of weeks to see if hyperpigmentation develops,” he advised. “However, their sun exposure may change, and the area you treat with a test spot may be different than the entire area you intend to treat, so don’t think that a test spot is going to guarantee a particular result. You also have to be aware of paradoxical hypertrichosis, where you get more hair growth rather than less.”
Laser hair removal is mandatory prior to neovaginoplasty surgery. Surgeons use skin from the penile shaft and the midscrotum to create the new vagina, Dr. Avram said, so all hair must be removed prior to surgery so that the inside of the new vagina will be free of hair.
“You can use laser or electrolysis for this,” he said. “Electrolysis takes a lot more treatments and is going to be much more tedious than laser hair removal.” Areas to be targeted include all hair on the scrotum and all hair on the penile shaft, plus one inch around the base. “In the perineum, you want to remove hair from the bottom of the scrotum to one inch above the anus in order to clear a 2.5-inch-wide strip,” he said.
For a phalloplasty, surgeons use skin from the underside of arm to create a urethra. This means that all hair should be removed from the crease of the wrist to 15-18 cm up the arm. “You treat the underside of the arm at 4 cm distally and 5.5 cm proximally,” Dr. Avram said. “It should be 15-18 cm in length, and you cannot have any hair that remains within the new urethra.”
To create a penis, surgeons use skin from the prone arm and around. This requires removing hair at 10 cm distally, 13 cm proximally, and 14 cm in length.
Dr. Avram emphasized the importance of patient and staff education and use of preferred pronouns when performing laser hair removal on patients prior to their gender reassignment surgery. “It requires an explanation that this requires multiple treatments and will not remove all hair,” he said. “You can work with an experienced electrologist for nonresponsive hair.”
Dr. Avram disclosed that he has received consulting fees from Allergan, Merz, Sciton, Soliton, and Zalea. He also reported having ownership and/or shareholder interest in Cytrellis, Invasix, and Zalea and intellectual property rights with Cytrellis.
SAN DIEGO – prior to undergoing the procedures.
“In the last year, in terms of hair removal, this has been the biggest change in my practice,” Mathew M. Avram, MD, JD, said at the annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium.
R. Rox Anderson, MD, director of the Wellman Center for Photomedicine at Massachusetts General Hospital, and Melanie Grossman, MD, who practices in New York City, developed laser hair removal in the 1990s, and today laser hair removal stands as the most common laser treatment in medicine, said Dr. Avram, director of laser, cosmetics, and dermatologic surgery at Massachusetts General Hospital, Boston. He described it as “safe and effective in skilled hands,” requiring about six treatments. Indications are for hypertrichosis, hirsutism (sometimes in the setting of polycystic ovary syndrome), pseudofolliculitis barbae, pilonidal cysts, and gender reassignment surgery.
Laser hair removal works by the extended theory of selective photothermolysis. “You’re targeting by proxy,” Dr. Avram explained. “The laser targets eumelanin in darkly pigmented hairs, with the secondary target being the follicular stem cells. Pigment is a prerequisite for effective treatment. So if there is no pigment in the hair, with current technology, it’s not going to work.”
He advises clinicians to avoid a cookbook approach to fluences when performing laser hair removal. Even though higher fluences have been correlated with greater permanent hair removal, they are also more likely to cause unexpected side effects. “The recommended treatment fluences are often provided with each individual laser device for nonexperienced operators, but I would not recommend doing that,” he said. “You want to evaluate for the desired clinical endpoint of perifollicular erythema and edema. The highest possible tolerated fluence, which yields this endpoint, without any adverse effects, is often the best fluence for treatment.” In 2016, Dr. Avram and his colleagues published a paper that focuses on desirable and therapeutic endpoints when performing laser and light treatments (J Am Acad Dermatol 2016;74[5]:821-33).
The best candidates for laser hair removal are those with light skin color and dark hair. “The more pigment that’s in the hair, the more it’s going to absorb the energy,” he said. Coarse, thick hair responds better than thin vellus hairs, and blond, gray hairs do not respond. A new silver nanoparticle technology is being developed that may improve efficacy for people with blond or gray hair in the future. “Modest initial data showed that it works, but it requires several treatments,” Dr. Avram said.
A past president of the American Society for Laser Medicine and Surgery, Dr. Avram went on to note that laser hair removal is often delegated to nonphysicians and is the most common cause of lawsuits for laser injury. “The rates of lawsuits rise dramatically when delegated to nonphysicians,” he said. “They even rise higher when performed by nonphysicians without supervision such as in medi-spas. Some of the side effects when performed by nonexperienced users can include temporary hyperpigmentation and longterm hypopigmentation.”
One of his clinical pearls is to never perform laser hair removal on suntanned individuals (“you will get obvious, bizarre-appearing hypopigmentation,” he said) and to exercise caution in patients with darker skin types. “If you do a test spot, give it a couple of weeks to see if hyperpigmentation develops,” he advised. “However, their sun exposure may change, and the area you treat with a test spot may be different than the entire area you intend to treat, so don’t think that a test spot is going to guarantee a particular result. You also have to be aware of paradoxical hypertrichosis, where you get more hair growth rather than less.”
Laser hair removal is mandatory prior to neovaginoplasty surgery. Surgeons use skin from the penile shaft and the midscrotum to create the new vagina, Dr. Avram said, so all hair must be removed prior to surgery so that the inside of the new vagina will be free of hair.
“You can use laser or electrolysis for this,” he said. “Electrolysis takes a lot more treatments and is going to be much more tedious than laser hair removal.” Areas to be targeted include all hair on the scrotum and all hair on the penile shaft, plus one inch around the base. “In the perineum, you want to remove hair from the bottom of the scrotum to one inch above the anus in order to clear a 2.5-inch-wide strip,” he said.
For a phalloplasty, surgeons use skin from the underside of arm to create a urethra. This means that all hair should be removed from the crease of the wrist to 15-18 cm up the arm. “You treat the underside of the arm at 4 cm distally and 5.5 cm proximally,” Dr. Avram said. “It should be 15-18 cm in length, and you cannot have any hair that remains within the new urethra.”
To create a penis, surgeons use skin from the prone arm and around. This requires removing hair at 10 cm distally, 13 cm proximally, and 14 cm in length.
Dr. Avram emphasized the importance of patient and staff education and use of preferred pronouns when performing laser hair removal on patients prior to their gender reassignment surgery. “It requires an explanation that this requires multiple treatments and will not remove all hair,” he said. “You can work with an experienced electrologist for nonresponsive hair.”
Dr. Avram disclosed that he has received consulting fees from Allergan, Merz, Sciton, Soliton, and Zalea. He also reported having ownership and/or shareholder interest in Cytrellis, Invasix, and Zalea and intellectual property rights with Cytrellis.
EXPERT ANALYSIS FROM MOA 2019