Doug Brunk

SAN DIEGO – When patients ask if collagen supplements can benefit their skin, what should you tell them?

According to Ava Shamban, MD, a dermatologist who practices in Santa Monica, Calif., limited data exist to suggest that consuming collagen-dense foods can directly benefit skin or joint health. And in her opinion, more research is needed to establish knowledge of the effects and physiologic mechanism of collagen supplementation.

“Collagen is the most abundant protein in the skin; it is found only in animal flesh like meat and fish that contain connective tissue,” she said at the annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “We produce less collagen as we age. External factors can slow down our collagen production, including smoking, sun exposure, lack of sleep/exercise, and alcohol consumption.”

Though human studies are lacking, some trials have found that collagen supplements may improve skin hydration and elasticity. “Maybe there’s some benefit, but the digestive process breaks collagen down into amino acids, so I don’t buy it,” she said.

At the meeting, Dr. Shamban discussed other topics related to the effect of supplements and nutrition on the skin:

Can Nutrafol reverse permanent hair loss? “It definitely doesn’t do that,” she said. “Can it help regrow hair? Perhaps.” Nutrafol is an over-the-counter supplement that aims to relieve moderate hair thinning or strengthen hair to prevent breakage, and is physician-formulated with medical-grade ingredients that target root causes of thinning such as stress, lifestyle, hormones, and nutrition.

As for biotin, “we now know that high levels of biotin can actually cause hair loss,” she said. “If you have advanced hair loss, supplements may not work for you. There is no hair regrowth supplement that can bring back a dead hair follicle. Can it help a miniaturized hair follicle? Maybe. Platelet-rich plasma injections have been shown to stimulate hair growth, but only if the follicle is miniaturized, not if it’s totally gone.”

How does the human microbiome affect skin? In a review of sequencing surveys of healthy adults, “the composition of microbial communities was found to be primarily dependent on the physiology of the skin site, with changes in the relative abundance of bacterial taxa associated with moist, dry, and sebaceous environments,” the authors reported . “The microbiome is the genetic material of all the microbes that live inside the body, including bacteria, fungi, protozoa, and viruses,” Dr. Shamban said. “The more diverse the microbiota is, the healthier it’s considered. That diversity is enriched through a diet full of various vegetables and fruits.”

Nearly all adults are colonized with Cutibacterium acnes (formerly Propionibacterium acnes), but only a minority have acne, which highlights the importance of studying diseases in the broader context of host genetics, immune or barrier defects, the microbiome, and the environment, she added. For example, the decreased diversity of the skin microbiome in people with atopic dermatitis has been linked to a reduction in environmental biodiversity in the areas surrounding their homes.

Do adaptogens have a role in skin care? Adaptogens such as ashwagandha, elderberry, ginseng, licorice root, neem, moringa, and reishi mushrooms have been used in Chinese and Ayurvedic medicine for centuries and are purported to promote adaptability, resilience, and survival of living organisms in stress. They appear to affect the neuroendocrine immune system and at low doses may function as mild stress mimetics.

“The idea is that combining adaptogens into skin care can reinforce and support the skin’s resistance against stressors that can accelerate visible signs of aging,” said Dr. Shamban. “They share some similarities with antioxidants in that their main purpose is to protect the body from external stressors such as UV rays, oxidation, and pollution.” More studies should be conducted to verify effectiveness, she said, “but Eastern practices that have incorporated it for centuries shouldn’t be fully dismissed. Most doctors believe adaptogens are safe, but how they interact with the mechanics of the body’s stress response system remains a mystery.”

Embrace the consumption of micronutrients. Inspired by work from dermatologist Zoe Diana Draelos, MD, Dr. Shamban advises patients to eat a “rainbow of different colored foods” every day, especially those rich in vitamins A, C, and E. Green foods are generally rich in vitamin E, brown foods are rich in trace minerals, and blue/purple foods are rich in antioxidants. “It’s always best to get nutrients from a rich, healthy diet, but sometimes our skin requires extra help,” she said.

A randomized, placebo-controlled, double-blind study by French researchers, which showed that skin is prone to seasonal changes during the winter, particularly in exposed areas, also looked at whether a daily micronutrient supplement with ingredients that included green tea extract, blackcurrant seed oil, and magnesium, had an impact on the negative effects of winter weather on the skin. “The data indicate that oral micronutrient supplementation can be a safe treatment, with no serious side effects, and may prevent or even eliminate the negative effects of winter on the skin,” she said.

Dr. Shamban disclosed that she conducts clinical trials for many pharmaceutical and device companies.

SAN DIEGO – When patients ask if collagen supplements can benefit their skin, what should you tell them?

According to Ava Shamban, MD, a dermatologist who practices in Santa Monica, Calif., limited data exist to suggest that consuming collagen-dense foods can directly benefit skin or joint health. And in her opinion, more research is needed to establish knowledge of the effects and physiologic mechanism of collagen supplementation.

“Collagen is the most abundant protein in the skin; it is found only in animal flesh like meat and fish that contain connective tissue,” she said at the annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “We produce less collagen as we age. External factors can slow down our collagen production, including smoking, sun exposure, lack of sleep/exercise, and alcohol consumption.”

Though human studies are lacking, some trials have found that collagen supplements may improve skin hydration and elasticity. “Maybe there’s some benefit, but the digestive process breaks collagen down into amino acids, so I don’t buy it,” she said.

At the meeting, Dr. Shamban discussed other topics related to the effect of supplements and nutrition on the skin:

Can Nutrafol reverse permanent hair loss? “It definitely doesn’t do that,” she said. “Can it help regrow hair? Perhaps.” Nutrafol is an over-the-counter supplement that aims to relieve moderate hair thinning or strengthen hair to prevent breakage, and is physician-formulated with medical-grade ingredients that target root causes of thinning such as stress, lifestyle, hormones, and nutrition.

As for biotin, “we now know that high levels of biotin can actually cause hair loss,” she said. “If you have advanced hair loss, supplements may not work for you. There is no hair regrowth supplement that can bring back a dead hair follicle. Can it help a miniaturized hair follicle? Maybe. Platelet-rich plasma injections have been shown to stimulate hair growth, but only if the follicle is miniaturized, not if it’s totally gone.”

How does the human microbiome affect skin? In a review of sequencing surveys of healthy adults, “the composition of microbial communities was found to be primarily dependent on the physiology of the skin site, with changes in the relative abundance of bacterial taxa associated with moist, dry, and sebaceous environments,” the authors reported . “The microbiome is the genetic material of all the microbes that live inside the body, including bacteria, fungi, protozoa, and viruses,” Dr. Shamban said. “The more diverse the microbiota is, the healthier it’s considered. That diversity is enriched through a diet full of various vegetables and fruits.”

Nearly all adults are colonized with Cutibacterium acnes (formerly Propionibacterium acnes), but only a minority have acne, which highlights the importance of studying diseases in the broader context of host genetics, immune or barrier defects, the microbiome, and the environment, she added. For example, the decreased diversity of the skin microbiome in people with atopic dermatitis has been linked to a reduction in environmental biodiversity in the areas surrounding their homes.

Do adaptogens have a role in skin care? Adaptogens such as ashwagandha, elderberry, ginseng, licorice root, neem, moringa, and reishi mushrooms have been used in Chinese and Ayurvedic medicine for centuries and are purported to promote adaptability, resilience, and survival of living organisms in stress. They appear to affect the neuroendocrine immune system and at low doses may function as mild stress mimetics.

“The idea is that combining adaptogens into skin care can reinforce and support the skin’s resistance against stressors that can accelerate visible signs of aging,” said Dr. Shamban. “They share some similarities with antioxidants in that their main purpose is to protect the body from external stressors such as UV rays, oxidation, and pollution.” More studies should be conducted to verify effectiveness, she said, “but Eastern practices that have incorporated it for centuries shouldn’t be fully dismissed. Most doctors believe adaptogens are safe, but how they interact with the mechanics of the body’s stress response system remains a mystery.”

Embrace the consumption of micronutrients. Inspired by work from dermatologist Zoe Diana Draelos, MD, Dr. Shamban advises patients to eat a “rainbow of different colored foods” every day, especially those rich in vitamins A, C, and E. Green foods are generally rich in vitamin E, brown foods are rich in trace minerals, and blue/purple foods are rich in antioxidants. “It’s always best to get nutrients from a rich, healthy diet, but sometimes our skin requires extra help,” she said.

A randomized, placebo-controlled, double-blind study by French researchers, which showed that skin is prone to seasonal changes during the winter, particularly in exposed areas, also looked at whether a daily micronutrient supplement with ingredients that included green tea extract, blackcurrant seed oil, and magnesium, had an impact on the negative effects of winter weather on the skin. “The data indicate that oral micronutrient supplementation can be a safe treatment, with no serious side effects, and may prevent or even eliminate the negative effects of winter on the skin,” she said.

Dr. Shamban disclosed that she conducts clinical trials for many pharmaceutical and device companies.

SAN DIEGO – When patients ask if collagen supplements can benefit their skin, what should you tell them?

According to Ava Shamban, MD, a dermatologist who practices in Santa Monica, Calif., limited data exist to suggest that consuming collagen-dense foods can directly benefit skin or joint health. And in her opinion, more research is needed to establish knowledge of the effects and physiologic mechanism of collagen supplementation.

“Collagen is the most abundant protein in the skin; it is found only in animal flesh like meat and fish that contain connective tissue,” she said at the annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “We produce less collagen as we age. External factors can slow down our collagen production, including smoking, sun exposure, lack of sleep/exercise, and alcohol consumption.”

Though human studies are lacking, some trials have found that collagen supplements may improve skin hydration and elasticity. “Maybe there’s some benefit, but the digestive process breaks collagen down into amino acids, so I don’t buy it,” she said.

At the meeting, Dr. Shamban discussed other topics related to the effect of supplements and nutrition on the skin:

Can Nutrafol reverse permanent hair loss? “It definitely doesn’t do that,” she said. “Can it help regrow hair? Perhaps.” Nutrafol is an over-the-counter supplement that aims to relieve moderate hair thinning or strengthen hair to prevent breakage, and is physician-formulated with medical-grade ingredients that target root causes of thinning such as stress, lifestyle, hormones, and nutrition.

As for biotin, “we now know that high levels of biotin can actually cause hair loss,” she said. “If you have advanced hair loss, supplements may not work for you. There is no hair regrowth supplement that can bring back a dead hair follicle. Can it help a miniaturized hair follicle? Maybe. Platelet-rich plasma injections have been shown to stimulate hair growth, but only if the follicle is miniaturized, not if it’s totally gone.”

How does the human microbiome affect skin? In a review of sequencing surveys of healthy adults, “the composition of microbial communities was found to be primarily dependent on the physiology of the skin site, with changes in the relative abundance of bacterial taxa associated with moist, dry, and sebaceous environments,” the authors reported . “The microbiome is the genetic material of all the microbes that live inside the body, including bacteria, fungi, protozoa, and viruses,” Dr. Shamban said. “The more diverse the microbiota is, the healthier it’s considered. That diversity is enriched through a diet full of various vegetables and fruits.”

Nearly all adults are colonized with Cutibacterium acnes (formerly Propionibacterium acnes), but only a minority have acne, which highlights the importance of studying diseases in the broader context of host genetics, immune or barrier defects, the microbiome, and the environment, she added. For example, the decreased diversity of the skin microbiome in people with atopic dermatitis has been linked to a reduction in environmental biodiversity in the areas surrounding their homes.

Do adaptogens have a role in skin care? Adaptogens such as ashwagandha, elderberry, ginseng, licorice root, neem, moringa, and reishi mushrooms have been used in Chinese and Ayurvedic medicine for centuries and are purported to promote adaptability, resilience, and survival of living organisms in stress. They appear to affect the neuroendocrine immune system and at low doses may function as mild stress mimetics.

“The idea is that combining adaptogens into skin care can reinforce and support the skin’s resistance against stressors that can accelerate visible signs of aging,” said Dr. Shamban. “They share some similarities with antioxidants in that their main purpose is to protect the body from external stressors such as UV rays, oxidation, and pollution.” More studies should be conducted to verify effectiveness, she said, “but Eastern practices that have incorporated it for centuries shouldn’t be fully dismissed. Most doctors believe adaptogens are safe, but how they interact with the mechanics of the body’s stress response system remains a mystery.”

Embrace the consumption of micronutrients. Inspired by work from dermatologist Zoe Diana Draelos, MD, Dr. Shamban advises patients to eat a “rainbow of different colored foods” every day, especially those rich in vitamins A, C, and E. Green foods are generally rich in vitamin E, brown foods are rich in trace minerals, and blue/purple foods are rich in antioxidants. “It’s always best to get nutrients from a rich, healthy diet, but sometimes our skin requires extra help,” she said.

A randomized, placebo-controlled, double-blind study by French researchers, which showed that skin is prone to seasonal changes during the winter, particularly in exposed areas, also looked at whether a daily micronutrient supplement with ingredients that included green tea extract, blackcurrant seed oil, and magnesium, had an impact on the negative effects of winter weather on the skin. “The data indicate that oral micronutrient supplementation can be a safe treatment, with no serious side effects, and may prevent or even eliminate the negative effects of winter on the skin,” she said.

Dr. Shamban disclosed that she conducts clinical trials for many pharmaceutical and device companies.

SAN DIEGO – When Arisa E. Ortiz, MD, meets with patients who seek treatment for melasma, she tells them that while she can make their hyperpigmentation better, no cure-all exists for the condition.

“They need to understand that melasma is going to require long-term maintenance,” Dr. Ortiz, director of laser and cosmetic dermatology at the University of California, San Diego, said at the annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium.

yuuurin/iStock/Getty Images

Hydroquinone is a mainstay of melasma therapy, but instead of the commonly used 4% formulation, she prefers to use 12% hydroquinone with 6% kojic acid in VersaBase cream. “It’s a high concentration but the VersaBase makes it more tolerable,” she said. “I have patients take a pea-sized amount and mix it in a regular moisturizer. It’s too strong to spot treat, so it goes on the whole face.”

Mindful that chronic hydroquinone use can cause ochronosis (permanent darkening), she has patients alternate with a nonhydroquinone bleaching agent such as lignin peroxidase, oligopeptide, Lytera, Melaplex, 4-n-butylresorcinol, Cysteamine cream, tranexamic acid, or oral antioxidants. In a study sponsored by SkinMedica, investigators conducted a randomized, double-blind, half-face study in females with moderate to severe facial hyperpigmentation to assess the efficacy and tolerability of three new skin brightener formulations containing SMA-432, a prostaglandin E2 inhibitor, compared with 4% hydroquinone. They found that the nonhydroquinone skin formulations were better tolerated and were just as effective as 4% hydroquinone.
 

Chemical peels and laser treatments

Chemical peels are another treatment option for melasma, but Dr. Ortiz prefers glycolic peels over salicylic and other peels, “because there is no downtime,” she said.

As for laser-based approaches, melasma patients respond best to low energy devices such as the 1,927-nm fractional diode laser at a 3.75% density. “This also can increase the skin permeability of topicals, so when you’re combining it with hydroquinone it can be more effective,” she said.

In an observational study of 27 women with refractory melasma, with phototypes II-V, New York City–based dermatologist Arielle Kauvar, MD, combined microdermabrasion with the Q-switched Nd:YAG laser. “The settings she used were very low fluence, so there was no clinical endpoint or no whitening,” said Dr. Ortiz, vice president of the American Society for Laser Medicine and Surgery (ASLMS). Specifically, Dr. Kauvar used the laser at 1.6-2 J/cm² with a 5- or 6-mm spot size immediately following microdermabrasion every 4 weeks; Patients received an average of 2.6 treatments, and were assessed 3-12 months after the last treatment. Study participants were on a standard skin care regimen of a broad spectrum sunscreen, hydroquinone, and tretinoin or vitamin C.

Most of the patients showed at least 50% clearance of melasma 1 month after the first treatment, and 81% showed more than 75% clearance of melasma; remission lasted at least 6 months.

“I personally prefer to use picosecond over Q-switched lasers, because they deliver the energy faster, and you can use a 1,064-nm picosecond laser that is safe in all skin types,” Dr. Ortiz said. “There is minimal downtime, and it doesn’t require anesthesia. You have to consider these things when you’re treating melasma, because this usually requires monthly treatments. If you do something that requires a week of downtime every month, it’s not practical for patients.”

In a study published in 2021, Dr. Ortiz and Tanya Greywal, MD, used three passes of the 1,064-nm Nd:YAG laser to treat melasma in 10 patients with skin types II-V. The device had a 650-microsecond pulse duration, a 6-mm spot size, and an energy mode of 11-14 J/cm². The researchers observed a mean melasma improvement of 26%-50% as early as 3 weeks. “There was no downtime, and no anesthesia was required,” Dr. Ortiz said.

Researchers have discovered a vascular component to melasma, which may have treatment implications. Houston-based dermatologist Paul M. Friedman, MD, and his colleagues used spectrocolorimetry to detect an underlying prominent vascular component in a retrospective review of 11 patients with melasma, with skin types II-IV. They determined that melasma lesions exhibiting subtle or subclinical telangiectatic erythema may be improved by combining vascular-targeted laser therapy with fractional low-powered diode laser therapy.

“So, combining a vascular laser with a 1,927-nm fractional diode laser showed more improvement than with just the diode laser alone,” said Dr. Ortiz, who was not involved with the analysis.

To optimize results following the laser treatment of melasma, she uses one application of clobetasol immediately after the procedure. “This can help reduce swelling and inflammation to decrease the risk of postinflammatory hyperpigmentation,” she said. “You can also use a skin cooling system like Cryomodulation for controlled cooling.”
 

Tranexamic acid and PLE

Another strategy for melasma patients involves oral treatment with extract of Polypodium leucotomos (PLE), a fern from the Polypodiaceae family with antioxidant properties that has been shown to be photoprotective against UVA and UVB radiation. “I explain to my patients that it’s like an internal sunscreen,” Dr. Ortiz said. “It does not replace your external sunscreen, but it adds extra protection.”

In a pilot placebo-controlled study of patients with melasma on their normal regimen of hydroquinone and sunscreen, 40 Asian patients with melasma were randomized to receive either oral PLE supplementation or placebo for 12 weeks. The authors found that PLE significantly improved and accelerated the outcome reached with hydroquinone and sunscreen from about the first month of treatment, compared with placebo.

Dr. Ortiz discussed the role of oral tranexamic acid, an antifibrinolytic, procoagulant agent that is approved by the Food and Drug Administration for the treatment of menorrhagia and to prevent hemorrhage in patients with hemophilia undergoing tooth extractions. “This is a game changer for melasma treatment,” she said, but its use has been limited by the risk for thromboembolism.

In a study of 561 patients with melasma, 90% improved after a median treatment duration of 4 months, and only 7% had side effects, most commonly abdominal bloating and pain. Treatment was discontinued in one patient who developed a deep vein thrombosis, and was diagnosed with familial protein S deficiency.

The daily dosing of tranexamic acid for menorrhagia is 3,900 mg daily, while the dose for treating melasma has ranged from 500 mg to 1,500 mg per day, Dr. Ortiz said. It’s available as a 650-mg tablet in the United States. “I prescribe 325 mg twice a day, but studies have shown that 650 mg once a day is just as effective,” she said.

Prior to prescribing tranexamic acid, Dr. Ortiz does not order labs, but she performs an extensive history of current illness and does not prescribe it in patients with an increased risk of clotting, including people who smoke and those who take oral contraceptives or are on hormone supplementation. Use is also contraindicated in people with a current malignancy, those with a history of stroke or DVT, and those who have any clotting disorder.

Dr. Ortiz disclosed having financial relationships with several pharmaceutical and device companies. She is cochair of the Masters of Aesthetics Symposium.

SAN DIEGO – When Arisa E. Ortiz, MD, meets with patients who seek treatment for melasma, she tells them that while she can make their hyperpigmentation better, no cure-all exists for the condition.

“They need to understand that melasma is going to require long-term maintenance,” Dr. Ortiz, director of laser and cosmetic dermatology at the University of California, San Diego, said at the annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium.

yuuurin/iStock/Getty Images

Hydroquinone is a mainstay of melasma therapy, but instead of the commonly used 4% formulation, she prefers to use 12% hydroquinone with 6% kojic acid in VersaBase cream. “It’s a high concentration but the VersaBase makes it more tolerable,” she said. “I have patients take a pea-sized amount and mix it in a regular moisturizer. It’s too strong to spot treat, so it goes on the whole face.”

Mindful that chronic hydroquinone use can cause ochronosis (permanent darkening), she has patients alternate with a nonhydroquinone bleaching agent such as lignin peroxidase, oligopeptide, Lytera, Melaplex, 4-n-butylresorcinol, Cysteamine cream, tranexamic acid, or oral antioxidants. In a study sponsored by SkinMedica, investigators conducted a randomized, double-blind, half-face study in females with moderate to severe facial hyperpigmentation to assess the efficacy and tolerability of three new skin brightener formulations containing SMA-432, a prostaglandin E2 inhibitor, compared with 4% hydroquinone. They found that the nonhydroquinone skin formulations were better tolerated and were just as effective as 4% hydroquinone.
 

Chemical peels and laser treatments

Chemical peels are another treatment option for melasma, but Dr. Ortiz prefers glycolic peels over salicylic and other peels, “because there is no downtime,” she said.

As for laser-based approaches, melasma patients respond best to low energy devices such as the 1,927-nm fractional diode laser at a 3.75% density. “This also can increase the skin permeability of topicals, so when you’re combining it with hydroquinone it can be more effective,” she said.

In an observational study of 27 women with refractory melasma, with phototypes II-V, New York City–based dermatologist Arielle Kauvar, MD, combined microdermabrasion with the Q-switched Nd:YAG laser. “The settings she used were very low fluence, so there was no clinical endpoint or no whitening,” said Dr. Ortiz, vice president of the American Society for Laser Medicine and Surgery (ASLMS). Specifically, Dr. Kauvar used the laser at 1.6-2 J/cm² with a 5- or 6-mm spot size immediately following microdermabrasion every 4 weeks; Patients received an average of 2.6 treatments, and were assessed 3-12 months after the last treatment. Study participants were on a standard skin care regimen of a broad spectrum sunscreen, hydroquinone, and tretinoin or vitamin C.

Most of the patients showed at least 50% clearance of melasma 1 month after the first treatment, and 81% showed more than 75% clearance of melasma; remission lasted at least 6 months.

“I personally prefer to use picosecond over Q-switched lasers, because they deliver the energy faster, and you can use a 1,064-nm picosecond laser that is safe in all skin types,” Dr. Ortiz said. “There is minimal downtime, and it doesn’t require anesthesia. You have to consider these things when you’re treating melasma, because this usually requires monthly treatments. If you do something that requires a week of downtime every month, it’s not practical for patients.”

In a study published in 2021, Dr. Ortiz and Tanya Greywal, MD, used three passes of the 1,064-nm Nd:YAG laser to treat melasma in 10 patients with skin types II-V. The device had a 650-microsecond pulse duration, a 6-mm spot size, and an energy mode of 11-14 J/cm². The researchers observed a mean melasma improvement of 26%-50% as early as 3 weeks. “There was no downtime, and no anesthesia was required,” Dr. Ortiz said.

Researchers have discovered a vascular component to melasma, which may have treatment implications. Houston-based dermatologist Paul M. Friedman, MD, and his colleagues used spectrocolorimetry to detect an underlying prominent vascular component in a retrospective review of 11 patients with melasma, with skin types II-IV. They determined that melasma lesions exhibiting subtle or subclinical telangiectatic erythema may be improved by combining vascular-targeted laser therapy with fractional low-powered diode laser therapy.

“So, combining a vascular laser with a 1,927-nm fractional diode laser showed more improvement than with just the diode laser alone,” said Dr. Ortiz, who was not involved with the analysis.

To optimize results following the laser treatment of melasma, she uses one application of clobetasol immediately after the procedure. “This can help reduce swelling and inflammation to decrease the risk of postinflammatory hyperpigmentation,” she said. “You can also use a skin cooling system like Cryomodulation for controlled cooling.”
 

Tranexamic acid and PLE

Another strategy for melasma patients involves oral treatment with extract of Polypodium leucotomos (PLE), a fern from the Polypodiaceae family with antioxidant properties that has been shown to be photoprotective against UVA and UVB radiation. “I explain to my patients that it’s like an internal sunscreen,” Dr. Ortiz said. “It does not replace your external sunscreen, but it adds extra protection.”

In a pilot placebo-controlled study of patients with melasma on their normal regimen of hydroquinone and sunscreen, 40 Asian patients with melasma were randomized to receive either oral PLE supplementation or placebo for 12 weeks. The authors found that PLE significantly improved and accelerated the outcome reached with hydroquinone and sunscreen from about the first month of treatment, compared with placebo.

Dr. Ortiz discussed the role of oral tranexamic acid, an antifibrinolytic, procoagulant agent that is approved by the Food and Drug Administration for the treatment of menorrhagia and to prevent hemorrhage in patients with hemophilia undergoing tooth extractions. “This is a game changer for melasma treatment,” she said, but its use has been limited by the risk for thromboembolism.

In a study of 561 patients with melasma, 90% improved after a median treatment duration of 4 months, and only 7% had side effects, most commonly abdominal bloating and pain. Treatment was discontinued in one patient who developed a deep vein thrombosis, and was diagnosed with familial protein S deficiency.

The daily dosing of tranexamic acid for menorrhagia is 3,900 mg daily, while the dose for treating melasma has ranged from 500 mg to 1,500 mg per day, Dr. Ortiz said. It’s available as a 650-mg tablet in the United States. “I prescribe 325 mg twice a day, but studies have shown that 650 mg once a day is just as effective,” she said.

Prior to prescribing tranexamic acid, Dr. Ortiz does not order labs, but she performs an extensive history of current illness and does not prescribe it in patients with an increased risk of clotting, including people who smoke and those who take oral contraceptives or are on hormone supplementation. Use is also contraindicated in people with a current malignancy, those with a history of stroke or DVT, and those who have any clotting disorder.

Dr. Ortiz disclosed having financial relationships with several pharmaceutical and device companies. She is cochair of the Masters of Aesthetics Symposium.

SAN DIEGO – When Arisa E. Ortiz, MD, meets with patients who seek treatment for melasma, she tells them that while she can make their hyperpigmentation better, no cure-all exists for the condition.

“They need to understand that melasma is going to require long-term maintenance,” Dr. Ortiz, director of laser and cosmetic dermatology at the University of California, San Diego, said at the annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium.

yuuurin/iStock/Getty Images

Hydroquinone is a mainstay of melasma therapy, but instead of the commonly used 4% formulation, she prefers to use 12% hydroquinone with 6% kojic acid in VersaBase cream. “It’s a high concentration but the VersaBase makes it more tolerable,” she said. “I have patients take a pea-sized amount and mix it in a regular moisturizer. It’s too strong to spot treat, so it goes on the whole face.”

Mindful that chronic hydroquinone use can cause ochronosis (permanent darkening), she has patients alternate with a nonhydroquinone bleaching agent such as lignin peroxidase, oligopeptide, Lytera, Melaplex, 4-n-butylresorcinol, Cysteamine cream, tranexamic acid, or oral antioxidants. In a study sponsored by SkinMedica, investigators conducted a randomized, double-blind, half-face study in females with moderate to severe facial hyperpigmentation to assess the efficacy and tolerability of three new skin brightener formulations containing SMA-432, a prostaglandin E2 inhibitor, compared with 4% hydroquinone. They found that the nonhydroquinone skin formulations were better tolerated and were just as effective as 4% hydroquinone.
 

Chemical peels and laser treatments

Chemical peels are another treatment option for melasma, but Dr. Ortiz prefers glycolic peels over salicylic and other peels, “because there is no downtime,” she said.

As for laser-based approaches, melasma patients respond best to low energy devices such as the 1,927-nm fractional diode laser at a 3.75% density. “This also can increase the skin permeability of topicals, so when you’re combining it with hydroquinone it can be more effective,” she said.

In an observational study of 27 women with refractory melasma, with phototypes II-V, New York City–based dermatologist Arielle Kauvar, MD, combined microdermabrasion with the Q-switched Nd:YAG laser. “The settings she used were very low fluence, so there was no clinical endpoint or no whitening,” said Dr. Ortiz, vice president of the American Society for Laser Medicine and Surgery (ASLMS). Specifically, Dr. Kauvar used the laser at 1.6-2 J/cm² with a 5- or 6-mm spot size immediately following microdermabrasion every 4 weeks; Patients received an average of 2.6 treatments, and were assessed 3-12 months after the last treatment. Study participants were on a standard skin care regimen of a broad spectrum sunscreen, hydroquinone, and tretinoin or vitamin C.

Most of the patients showed at least 50% clearance of melasma 1 month after the first treatment, and 81% showed more than 75% clearance of melasma; remission lasted at least 6 months.

“I personally prefer to use picosecond over Q-switched lasers, because they deliver the energy faster, and you can use a 1,064-nm picosecond laser that is safe in all skin types,” Dr. Ortiz said. “There is minimal downtime, and it doesn’t require anesthesia. You have to consider these things when you’re treating melasma, because this usually requires monthly treatments. If you do something that requires a week of downtime every month, it’s not practical for patients.”

In a study published in 2021, Dr. Ortiz and Tanya Greywal, MD, used three passes of the 1,064-nm Nd:YAG laser to treat melasma in 10 patients with skin types II-V. The device had a 650-microsecond pulse duration, a 6-mm spot size, and an energy mode of 11-14 J/cm². The researchers observed a mean melasma improvement of 26%-50% as early as 3 weeks. “There was no downtime, and no anesthesia was required,” Dr. Ortiz said.

Researchers have discovered a vascular component to melasma, which may have treatment implications. Houston-based dermatologist Paul M. Friedman, MD, and his colleagues used spectrocolorimetry to detect an underlying prominent vascular component in a retrospective review of 11 patients with melasma, with skin types II-IV. They determined that melasma lesions exhibiting subtle or subclinical telangiectatic erythema may be improved by combining vascular-targeted laser therapy with fractional low-powered diode laser therapy.

“So, combining a vascular laser with a 1,927-nm fractional diode laser showed more improvement than with just the diode laser alone,” said Dr. Ortiz, who was not involved with the analysis.

To optimize results following the laser treatment of melasma, she uses one application of clobetasol immediately after the procedure. “This can help reduce swelling and inflammation to decrease the risk of postinflammatory hyperpigmentation,” she said. “You can also use a skin cooling system like Cryomodulation for controlled cooling.”
 

Tranexamic acid and PLE

Another strategy for melasma patients involves oral treatment with extract of Polypodium leucotomos (PLE), a fern from the Polypodiaceae family with antioxidant properties that has been shown to be photoprotective against UVA and UVB radiation. “I explain to my patients that it’s like an internal sunscreen,” Dr. Ortiz said. “It does not replace your external sunscreen, but it adds extra protection.”

In a pilot placebo-controlled study of patients with melasma on their normal regimen of hydroquinone and sunscreen, 40 Asian patients with melasma were randomized to receive either oral PLE supplementation or placebo for 12 weeks. The authors found that PLE significantly improved and accelerated the outcome reached with hydroquinone and sunscreen from about the first month of treatment, compared with placebo.

Dr. Ortiz discussed the role of oral tranexamic acid, an antifibrinolytic, procoagulant agent that is approved by the Food and Drug Administration for the treatment of menorrhagia and to prevent hemorrhage in patients with hemophilia undergoing tooth extractions. “This is a game changer for melasma treatment,” she said, but its use has been limited by the risk for thromboembolism.

In a study of 561 patients with melasma, 90% improved after a median treatment duration of 4 months, and only 7% had side effects, most commonly abdominal bloating and pain. Treatment was discontinued in one patient who developed a deep vein thrombosis, and was diagnosed with familial protein S deficiency.

The daily dosing of tranexamic acid for menorrhagia is 3,900 mg daily, while the dose for treating melasma has ranged from 500 mg to 1,500 mg per day, Dr. Ortiz said. It’s available as a 650-mg tablet in the United States. “I prescribe 325 mg twice a day, but studies have shown that 650 mg once a day is just as effective,” she said.

Prior to prescribing tranexamic acid, Dr. Ortiz does not order labs, but she performs an extensive history of current illness and does not prescribe it in patients with an increased risk of clotting, including people who smoke and those who take oral contraceptives or are on hormone supplementation. Use is also contraindicated in people with a current malignancy, those with a history of stroke or DVT, and those who have any clotting disorder.

Dr. Ortiz disclosed having financial relationships with several pharmaceutical and device companies. She is cochair of the Masters of Aesthetics Symposium.

SAN DIEGO – While laser procedures, injectables, and chemical peels may be considered the bread and butter of a cosmetic dermatology practice, don’t forget about cosmeceuticals, advised Ava Shamban, MD.

It’s important to provide patients with high-quality products to take home with them and cosmeceuticals contain biologically active ingredients that enhance skin care efficacy, Dr. Shamban, a dermatologist who practices in Santa Monica, Calif., said at the annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “You can do all the lasers, injectables, and peels that you want, but if you’re not giving your patients high-quality products to take home with them, you’re not doing your job,” she commented.

“Look for brands that are formulated and tested for effectiveness,” she added. “In my office, we like to have products that are designed for specific issues to accompany prescription products, everything from rosacea, acne, melasma, and eczema to psoriasis.”

Dr. Shamban, author of the 2011 book, “Heal Your Skin: The Breakthrough Plan for Renewal,” recommends that dermatologists devise a questionnaire for patients asking them to list their skin-related concerns and use the responses to create a list of products for them to use at home. Provide clear instructions on use, including proper layering of products, how often to use them, and the correct amount to apply. “If you’re not going to do this, someone else will,” she said. Next, instruct them that cosmeceuticals must be used routinely to achieve optimal benefit. “Nothing happens overnight, and be wary of anyone that promises you otherwise,” Dr. Shamban said. “Offering cosmeceuticals helps bridge the gap between at-home routines and in-office treatments. If in-office procedures are a marathon, view the consistent use of the right products at home as your training.”

Bill Oxford/E+

During her presentation, she showed a photo of the “beauty bar,” the dedicated space with a counter and shelves for displaying skin care products in her Santa Monica office. “It’s good to set something up like this in your office, even if it’s just a little corner, because it gives it authority,” Dr. Shamban said. “Encourage clients to explore the beauty bar after their appointment with you.” She emphasized the importance of offering a wide range of products to accommodate different lifestyles, budgets, skin types, ages, and specific skin concerns, and training staff about the products. “There is never a one-size-fits-all approach to skincare; it’s all about the individual,” she said. “It’s never about pushing product; it’s always about educating patients.”

Dr. Shamban disclosed that she conducts clinical trials for many pharmaceutical and device companies.

SAN DIEGO – While laser procedures, injectables, and chemical peels may be considered the bread and butter of a cosmetic dermatology practice, don’t forget about cosmeceuticals, advised Ava Shamban, MD.

It’s important to provide patients with high-quality products to take home with them and cosmeceuticals contain biologically active ingredients that enhance skin care efficacy, Dr. Shamban, a dermatologist who practices in Santa Monica, Calif., said at the annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “You can do all the lasers, injectables, and peels that you want, but if you’re not giving your patients high-quality products to take home with them, you’re not doing your job,” she commented.

“Look for brands that are formulated and tested for effectiveness,” she added. “In my office, we like to have products that are designed for specific issues to accompany prescription products, everything from rosacea, acne, melasma, and eczema to psoriasis.”

Dr. Shamban, author of the 2011 book, “Heal Your Skin: The Breakthrough Plan for Renewal,” recommends that dermatologists devise a questionnaire for patients asking them to list their skin-related concerns and use the responses to create a list of products for them to use at home. Provide clear instructions on use, including proper layering of products, how often to use them, and the correct amount to apply. “If you’re not going to do this, someone else will,” she said. Next, instruct them that cosmeceuticals must be used routinely to achieve optimal benefit. “Nothing happens overnight, and be wary of anyone that promises you otherwise,” Dr. Shamban said. “Offering cosmeceuticals helps bridge the gap between at-home routines and in-office treatments. If in-office procedures are a marathon, view the consistent use of the right products at home as your training.”

Bill Oxford/E+

During her presentation, she showed a photo of the “beauty bar,” the dedicated space with a counter and shelves for displaying skin care products in her Santa Monica office. “It’s good to set something up like this in your office, even if it’s just a little corner, because it gives it authority,” Dr. Shamban said. “Encourage clients to explore the beauty bar after their appointment with you.” She emphasized the importance of offering a wide range of products to accommodate different lifestyles, budgets, skin types, ages, and specific skin concerns, and training staff about the products. “There is never a one-size-fits-all approach to skincare; it’s all about the individual,” she said. “It’s never about pushing product; it’s always about educating patients.”

Dr. Shamban disclosed that she conducts clinical trials for many pharmaceutical and device companies.

SAN DIEGO – While laser procedures, injectables, and chemical peels may be considered the bread and butter of a cosmetic dermatology practice, don’t forget about cosmeceuticals, advised Ava Shamban, MD.

It’s important to provide patients with high-quality products to take home with them and cosmeceuticals contain biologically active ingredients that enhance skin care efficacy, Dr. Shamban, a dermatologist who practices in Santa Monica, Calif., said at the annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “You can do all the lasers, injectables, and peels that you want, but if you’re not giving your patients high-quality products to take home with them, you’re not doing your job,” she commented.

“Look for brands that are formulated and tested for effectiveness,” she added. “In my office, we like to have products that are designed for specific issues to accompany prescription products, everything from rosacea, acne, melasma, and eczema to psoriasis.”

Dr. Shamban, author of the 2011 book, “Heal Your Skin: The Breakthrough Plan for Renewal,” recommends that dermatologists devise a questionnaire for patients asking them to list their skin-related concerns and use the responses to create a list of products for them to use at home. Provide clear instructions on use, including proper layering of products, how often to use them, and the correct amount to apply. “If you’re not going to do this, someone else will,” she said. Next, instruct them that cosmeceuticals must be used routinely to achieve optimal benefit. “Nothing happens overnight, and be wary of anyone that promises you otherwise,” Dr. Shamban said. “Offering cosmeceuticals helps bridge the gap between at-home routines and in-office treatments. If in-office procedures are a marathon, view the consistent use of the right products at home as your training.”

Bill Oxford/E+

During her presentation, she showed a photo of the “beauty bar,” the dedicated space with a counter and shelves for displaying skin care products in her Santa Monica office. “It’s good to set something up like this in your office, even if it’s just a little corner, because it gives it authority,” Dr. Shamban said. “Encourage clients to explore the beauty bar after their appointment with you.” She emphasized the importance of offering a wide range of products to accommodate different lifestyles, budgets, skin types, ages, and specific skin concerns, and training staff about the products. “There is never a one-size-fits-all approach to skincare; it’s all about the individual,” she said. “It’s never about pushing product; it’s always about educating patients.”

Dr. Shamban disclosed that she conducts clinical trials for many pharmaceutical and device companies.

SAN DIEGO – If approved, a novel topical gel that combines an antibiotic, an antibacterial, and a retinoid would mark an important advance for many patients with moderate-to-severe acne, according to Lawrence F. Eichenfield, MD.

The product, known as IDP-126 and being developed by Ortho Dermatologics, is a fixed dose triple combination of clindamycin 1.2% plus benzoyl peroxide 3.1% and adapalene 0.15% being evaluated in patients nine years of age and older. According to a 2021 press release from the company, results from a second 12-week pivotal phase 3 trial showed a treatment success of 50.5% and 20.5% for IDP-126 and its vehicle, respectively, along with significant changes from baseline in inflammatory lesion count and non-inflammatory lesion count.

olavs/Thinkstock

More recently, researchers led by Linda Stein Gold, MD, conducted a 12-week multicenter, randomized, double-blind study of IDP-126 in 741 children, adolescents, and adults with moderate to severe acne. They reported 52.5% of patients treated with IDP-126 gel achieved treatment success by week 12, with over 70% reduction in inflammatory and noninflammatory lesions.

“This will be interesting to follow as it moves along,” Dr. Eichenfield, chief of pediatric and adolescent dermatology at Rady Children’s Hospital, San Diego, said at the annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium in a presentation on the newest topical acne treatments.

“If approved, we probably will be able to decrease our need for systemic therapies in some individuals,” he said. “It’s something that may become important in practices that mix and match between medical and procedural or surgical approaches to acne.”

Dr. Eichenfield highlighted other products for the topical treatment of acne:

• Trifarotene cream 0.005% (Aklief). In 2019, Food and Drug Administration approval made trifarotene cream the first new retinoid indicated for acne in several decades. It is indicated for the topical treatment of acne vulgaris in patients age 9 and older and has been studied in acne of the face, chest, and back.
• Tazarotene lotion 0.045% (Arazlo). The 0.1% formulation of tazarotene is commonly used for acne, but it can cause skin irritation, dryness, and erythema. The new 0.045% formulation was developed in a three-dimensional mesh matrix, with ingredients from an oil-in-water emulsion. “Many of the new acne products come with a background of vehicle delivery systems that minimize the concentration gradient, so it decreases irritation,” said Dr. Eichenfield, one of the authors of a 2021 review article on the management of acne vulgaris in JAMA. “This has very good efficacy without the traditional irritation of other tazarotene products,” Dr. Eichenfield said.
• Minocycline 4% topical foam (Amzeeq). The 2019 U.S. approval marked the first and so far only topical minocycline prescription treatment for acne. “Its hydrophobic composition allows for stable and efficient delivery of inherently unstable pharmaceutical ingredients,” he said. “It’s generally well tolerated.”
• Clascoterone cream 1% (Winlevi). This first-in-class topical androgen receptor inhibitor is approved for the treatment of acne in patients 12 years and older. It competes with dihydrotestosterone and selectively targets androgen receptors in sebocytes and hair papilla cells. “It is safe for use in men, has been studied on the face and trunk, and has been shown to inhibit sebum production, reduce secretion of inflammatory cytokines, and inhibit inflammatory pathways,” Dr. Eichenfield said.
• Micro-encapsulated benzoyl peroxide 3% and tretinoin 0.1% cream (Twyneo). This is a once-daily fixed-dose combination of tretinoin and benzoyl peroxide indicated for the treatment of acne vulgaris in patients age 9 and older. According to a press release from Sol-Gel, the manufacturer, silica (silicon dioxide) core shell structures separate micro-encapsulate tretinoin crystals and benzoyl peroxide crystals, enabling inclusion of the two active ingredients in the cream.

Dr. Eichenfield disclosed that he has been an investigator and/or consultant for Almirall, Cassiopea, Dermata, Galderma, and Ortho Dermatologics.

SAN DIEGO – If approved, a novel topical gel that combines an antibiotic, an antibacterial, and a retinoid would mark an important advance for many patients with moderate-to-severe acne, according to Lawrence F. Eichenfield, MD.

The product, known as IDP-126 and being developed by Ortho Dermatologics, is a fixed dose triple combination of clindamycin 1.2% plus benzoyl peroxide 3.1% and adapalene 0.15% being evaluated in patients nine years of age and older. According to a 2021 press release from the company, results from a second 12-week pivotal phase 3 trial showed a treatment success of 50.5% and 20.5% for IDP-126 and its vehicle, respectively, along with significant changes from baseline in inflammatory lesion count and non-inflammatory lesion count.

olavs/Thinkstock

More recently, researchers led by Linda Stein Gold, MD, conducted a 12-week multicenter, randomized, double-blind study of IDP-126 in 741 children, adolescents, and adults with moderate to severe acne. They reported 52.5% of patients treated with IDP-126 gel achieved treatment success by week 12, with over 70% reduction in inflammatory and noninflammatory lesions.

“This will be interesting to follow as it moves along,” Dr. Eichenfield, chief of pediatric and adolescent dermatology at Rady Children’s Hospital, San Diego, said at the annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium in a presentation on the newest topical acne treatments.

“If approved, we probably will be able to decrease our need for systemic therapies in some individuals,” he said. “It’s something that may become important in practices that mix and match between medical and procedural or surgical approaches to acne.”

Dr. Eichenfield highlighted other products for the topical treatment of acne:

• Trifarotene cream 0.005% (Aklief). In 2019, Food and Drug Administration approval made trifarotene cream the first new retinoid indicated for acne in several decades. It is indicated for the topical treatment of acne vulgaris in patients age 9 and older and has been studied in acne of the face, chest, and back.
• Tazarotene lotion 0.045% (Arazlo). The 0.1% formulation of tazarotene is commonly used for acne, but it can cause skin irritation, dryness, and erythema. The new 0.045% formulation was developed in a three-dimensional mesh matrix, with ingredients from an oil-in-water emulsion. “Many of the new acne products come with a background of vehicle delivery systems that minimize the concentration gradient, so it decreases irritation,” said Dr. Eichenfield, one of the authors of a 2021 review article on the management of acne vulgaris in JAMA. “This has very good efficacy without the traditional irritation of other tazarotene products,” Dr. Eichenfield said.
• Minocycline 4% topical foam (Amzeeq). The 2019 U.S. approval marked the first and so far only topical minocycline prescription treatment for acne. “Its hydrophobic composition allows for stable and efficient delivery of inherently unstable pharmaceutical ingredients,” he said. “It’s generally well tolerated.”
• Clascoterone cream 1% (Winlevi). This first-in-class topical androgen receptor inhibitor is approved for the treatment of acne in patients 12 years and older. It competes with dihydrotestosterone and selectively targets androgen receptors in sebocytes and hair papilla cells. “It is safe for use in men, has been studied on the face and trunk, and has been shown to inhibit sebum production, reduce secretion of inflammatory cytokines, and inhibit inflammatory pathways,” Dr. Eichenfield said.
• Micro-encapsulated benzoyl peroxide 3% and tretinoin 0.1% cream (Twyneo). This is a once-daily fixed-dose combination of tretinoin and benzoyl peroxide indicated for the treatment of acne vulgaris in patients age 9 and older. According to a press release from Sol-Gel, the manufacturer, silica (silicon dioxide) core shell structures separate micro-encapsulate tretinoin crystals and benzoyl peroxide crystals, enabling inclusion of the two active ingredients in the cream.

Dr. Eichenfield disclosed that he has been an investigator and/or consultant for Almirall, Cassiopea, Dermata, Galderma, and Ortho Dermatologics.

SAN DIEGO – If approved, a novel topical gel that combines an antibiotic, an antibacterial, and a retinoid would mark an important advance for many patients with moderate-to-severe acne, according to Lawrence F. Eichenfield, MD.

The product, known as IDP-126 and being developed by Ortho Dermatologics, is a fixed dose triple combination of clindamycin 1.2% plus benzoyl peroxide 3.1% and adapalene 0.15% being evaluated in patients nine years of age and older. According to a 2021 press release from the company, results from a second 12-week pivotal phase 3 trial showed a treatment success of 50.5% and 20.5% for IDP-126 and its vehicle, respectively, along with significant changes from baseline in inflammatory lesion count and non-inflammatory lesion count.

olavs/Thinkstock

More recently, researchers led by Linda Stein Gold, MD, conducted a 12-week multicenter, randomized, double-blind study of IDP-126 in 741 children, adolescents, and adults with moderate to severe acne. They reported 52.5% of patients treated with IDP-126 gel achieved treatment success by week 12, with over 70% reduction in inflammatory and noninflammatory lesions.

“This will be interesting to follow as it moves along,” Dr. Eichenfield, chief of pediatric and adolescent dermatology at Rady Children’s Hospital, San Diego, said at the annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium in a presentation on the newest topical acne treatments.

“If approved, we probably will be able to decrease our need for systemic therapies in some individuals,” he said. “It’s something that may become important in practices that mix and match between medical and procedural or surgical approaches to acne.”

Dr. Eichenfield highlighted other products for the topical treatment of acne:

• Trifarotene cream 0.005% (Aklief). In 2019, Food and Drug Administration approval made trifarotene cream the first new retinoid indicated for acne in several decades. It is indicated for the topical treatment of acne vulgaris in patients age 9 and older and has been studied in acne of the face, chest, and back.
• Tazarotene lotion 0.045% (Arazlo). The 0.1% formulation of tazarotene is commonly used for acne, but it can cause skin irritation, dryness, and erythema. The new 0.045% formulation was developed in a three-dimensional mesh matrix, with ingredients from an oil-in-water emulsion. “Many of the new acne products come with a background of vehicle delivery systems that minimize the concentration gradient, so it decreases irritation,” said Dr. Eichenfield, one of the authors of a 2021 review article on the management of acne vulgaris in JAMA. “This has very good efficacy without the traditional irritation of other tazarotene products,” Dr. Eichenfield said.
• Minocycline 4% topical foam (Amzeeq). The 2019 U.S. approval marked the first and so far only topical minocycline prescription treatment for acne. “Its hydrophobic composition allows for stable and efficient delivery of inherently unstable pharmaceutical ingredients,” he said. “It’s generally well tolerated.”
• Clascoterone cream 1% (Winlevi). This first-in-class topical androgen receptor inhibitor is approved for the treatment of acne in patients 12 years and older. It competes with dihydrotestosterone and selectively targets androgen receptors in sebocytes and hair papilla cells. “It is safe for use in men, has been studied on the face and trunk, and has been shown to inhibit sebum production, reduce secretion of inflammatory cytokines, and inhibit inflammatory pathways,” Dr. Eichenfield said.
• Micro-encapsulated benzoyl peroxide 3% and tretinoin 0.1% cream (Twyneo). This is a once-daily fixed-dose combination of tretinoin and benzoyl peroxide indicated for the treatment of acne vulgaris in patients age 9 and older. According to a press release from Sol-Gel, the manufacturer, silica (silicon dioxide) core shell structures separate micro-encapsulate tretinoin crystals and benzoyl peroxide crystals, enabling inclusion of the two active ingredients in the cream.

Dr. Eichenfield disclosed that he has been an investigator and/or consultant for Almirall, Cassiopea, Dermata, Galderma, and Ortho Dermatologics.

SAN DIEGO – In the clinical experience of Jeremy B. Green, MD, men typically require a higher dose of facial neuromodulators for nonsurgical wrinkle reduction compared with women because of anatomical differences.

“Men generally have larger facial muscle mass,” Dr. Green, a dermatologist in Coral Gables, Fla., said at the annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “We need a higher dose to treat them, or they will not be happy. In general, I try to increase the dose by about 50% for my male patients.”

Two early trials of dose adjustments support this practice, he said. In one, 80 men were randomized to receive a total dose of either 20, 40, 60, or 80 U of botulinum toxin type A (Botox) in the glabellar area. The researchers found that the 40, 60, and 80 U doses of botulinum toxin type A were consistently more effective in reducing glabellar lines than the 20 U dose.

In a subsequent study, researchers administered botulinum toxin type A (Dysport) 0.5 to 0.7 mL for men (60, 70, or 80 units), based on procerus/corrugator muscle mass. Efficacy was assessed by a blinded evaluator and patient self-evaluation at several time points up to 150 days post treatment. The median duration of effect was 109 days vs. 0 days for placebo in the blinded evaluator evaluation and 107 days vs. 0 for placebo in the patient self-evaluation.

Most injection algorithms for treating the glabella rely on a 5- or 7-point injection technique, but in 2021, researchers led by Sebastian Cotofana, MD, PhD, of the department of clinical anatomy at Mayo Clinic, Rochester, Minn., reported results from a study of the efficacy and safety of a refined 3-point injection technique targeting horizontal and vertical lines to prevent brow ptosis.

“Prior to this study Sebastian asked me, ‘Why do you guys always inject the body of the muscle?’ ” Dr. Green said. “‘If you inject the origin of the muscle on bone, you could more effectively wipe out the entire muscle’s movement. You’re going to get a better result at a lower dose, so let’s study this.’”

The injection technique involves targeting the midline level of the connecting line between left and right medial canthal ligaments with a 90-degree injection angle with bone contact, as well as the medial and inferior margin of eyebrows with a 45-degree injection angle in relation to midline with frontal bone contact. These three points are located inferior to the traditional (on-label) glabellar frown line injections used to treat the frontalis and the brow depressors.

The researchers used the 5-point glabellar line severity scale to evaluate the time of effect onset and the injection-related outcome 120 days after the treatment in 27 men and 78 women. They found that the onset of the neuromodulator effect occurred in an average of 3.5 days, and no adverse events such as eyebrow ptosis, upper eyelid ptosis, medial eyebrow ptosis, and lateral frontalis hyperactivity occurred during the study period.

“If you inject the origin of these muscles, you can get a brow lift with this technique by avoiding frontalis altogether,” Dr. Green said. “The caveat is, it’s so great at lifting the brows that if you treat the forehead, you may create a midline horizontal ‘shelf’ like I’ve never seen before, where the eyebrows elevate into an immobile superior frontalis.”

To avoid this when treating the forehead as well, he’s learned to split the dose of neuromodulator. “If I was injecting 5 units in the procerus before, I’ll do 2.5 units on nasal bone at the insertion of the muscle and then 2.5 units higher up in the traditional midline procerus injection site,” Dr. Green said.

“Same with the corrugators,” he continued. “Then, remember to inject more superficially in the lateral part, the tail of the corrugators, because the tail of the corrugators is inserting into the undersurface of the dermis. That’s why you see that skin puckering in the lateral brows when people frown. You’re pretty safe to chase that laterally if the brow’s already flat as in men, but I caution you [not] to do that in women, because you may flatten the brow.”

Dr. Green said that he is aware of two cases of lid ptosis from the 3-point technique, one of which happened to him.

“When you’re on the bone with your thumb you can feel that liquid traveling along the bone,” he said. “It can travel all the way to the midline pupil where the levator palpebrae superioris muscle is. I now don’t come in contact with bone with my corrugator origin injections, but rather float the needle a couple of millimeters off bone (in muscle) to hopefully prevent that from happening. Alternatively, some people will compress the brow along frontal bone lateral to that corrugator injection site while they’re injecting to prevent backflow of the neuromodulator.”

Dr. Green reported having received research funding and/or consulting fees from many device and pharmaceutical companies.

SAN DIEGO – In the clinical experience of Jeremy B. Green, MD, men typically require a higher dose of facial neuromodulators for nonsurgical wrinkle reduction compared with women because of anatomical differences.

“Men generally have larger facial muscle mass,” Dr. Green, a dermatologist in Coral Gables, Fla., said at the annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “We need a higher dose to treat them, or they will not be happy. In general, I try to increase the dose by about 50% for my male patients.”

Two early trials of dose adjustments support this practice, he said. In one, 80 men were randomized to receive a total dose of either 20, 40, 60, or 80 U of botulinum toxin type A (Botox) in the glabellar area. The researchers found that the 40, 60, and 80 U doses of botulinum toxin type A were consistently more effective in reducing glabellar lines than the 20 U dose.

In a subsequent study, researchers administered botulinum toxin type A (Dysport) 0.5 to 0.7 mL for men (60, 70, or 80 units), based on procerus/corrugator muscle mass. Efficacy was assessed by a blinded evaluator and patient self-evaluation at several time points up to 150 days post treatment. The median duration of effect was 109 days vs. 0 days for placebo in the blinded evaluator evaluation and 107 days vs. 0 for placebo in the patient self-evaluation.

Most injection algorithms for treating the glabella rely on a 5- or 7-point injection technique, but in 2021, researchers led by Sebastian Cotofana, MD, PhD, of the department of clinical anatomy at Mayo Clinic, Rochester, Minn., reported results from a study of the efficacy and safety of a refined 3-point injection technique targeting horizontal and vertical lines to prevent brow ptosis.

“Prior to this study Sebastian asked me, ‘Why do you guys always inject the body of the muscle?’ ” Dr. Green said. “‘If you inject the origin of the muscle on bone, you could more effectively wipe out the entire muscle’s movement. You’re going to get a better result at a lower dose, so let’s study this.’”

The injection technique involves targeting the midline level of the connecting line between left and right medial canthal ligaments with a 90-degree injection angle with bone contact, as well as the medial and inferior margin of eyebrows with a 45-degree injection angle in relation to midline with frontal bone contact. These three points are located inferior to the traditional (on-label) glabellar frown line injections used to treat the frontalis and the brow depressors.

The researchers used the 5-point glabellar line severity scale to evaluate the time of effect onset and the injection-related outcome 120 days after the treatment in 27 men and 78 women. They found that the onset of the neuromodulator effect occurred in an average of 3.5 days, and no adverse events such as eyebrow ptosis, upper eyelid ptosis, medial eyebrow ptosis, and lateral frontalis hyperactivity occurred during the study period.

“If you inject the origin of these muscles, you can get a brow lift with this technique by avoiding frontalis altogether,” Dr. Green said. “The caveat is, it’s so great at lifting the brows that if you treat the forehead, you may create a midline horizontal ‘shelf’ like I’ve never seen before, where the eyebrows elevate into an immobile superior frontalis.”

To avoid this when treating the forehead as well, he’s learned to split the dose of neuromodulator. “If I was injecting 5 units in the procerus before, I’ll do 2.5 units on nasal bone at the insertion of the muscle and then 2.5 units higher up in the traditional midline procerus injection site,” Dr. Green said.

“Same with the corrugators,” he continued. “Then, remember to inject more superficially in the lateral part, the tail of the corrugators, because the tail of the corrugators is inserting into the undersurface of the dermis. That’s why you see that skin puckering in the lateral brows when people frown. You’re pretty safe to chase that laterally if the brow’s already flat as in men, but I caution you [not] to do that in women, because you may flatten the brow.”

Dr. Green said that he is aware of two cases of lid ptosis from the 3-point technique, one of which happened to him.

“When you’re on the bone with your thumb you can feel that liquid traveling along the bone,” he said. “It can travel all the way to the midline pupil where the levator palpebrae superioris muscle is. I now don’t come in contact with bone with my corrugator origin injections, but rather float the needle a couple of millimeters off bone (in muscle) to hopefully prevent that from happening. Alternatively, some people will compress the brow along frontal bone lateral to that corrugator injection site while they’re injecting to prevent backflow of the neuromodulator.”

Dr. Green reported having received research funding and/or consulting fees from many device and pharmaceutical companies.

SAN DIEGO – In the clinical experience of Jeremy B. Green, MD, men typically require a higher dose of facial neuromodulators for nonsurgical wrinkle reduction compared with women because of anatomical differences.

“Men generally have larger facial muscle mass,” Dr. Green, a dermatologist in Coral Gables, Fla., said at the annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “We need a higher dose to treat them, or they will not be happy. In general, I try to increase the dose by about 50% for my male patients.”

Two early trials of dose adjustments support this practice, he said. In one, 80 men were randomized to receive a total dose of either 20, 40, 60, or 80 U of botulinum toxin type A (Botox) in the glabellar area. The researchers found that the 40, 60, and 80 U doses of botulinum toxin type A were consistently more effective in reducing glabellar lines than the 20 U dose.

In a subsequent study, researchers administered botulinum toxin type A (Dysport) 0.5 to 0.7 mL for men (60, 70, or 80 units), based on procerus/corrugator muscle mass. Efficacy was assessed by a blinded evaluator and patient self-evaluation at several time points up to 150 days post treatment. The median duration of effect was 109 days vs. 0 days for placebo in the blinded evaluator evaluation and 107 days vs. 0 for placebo in the patient self-evaluation.

Most injection algorithms for treating the glabella rely on a 5- or 7-point injection technique, but in 2021, researchers led by Sebastian Cotofana, MD, PhD, of the department of clinical anatomy at Mayo Clinic, Rochester, Minn., reported results from a study of the efficacy and safety of a refined 3-point injection technique targeting horizontal and vertical lines to prevent brow ptosis.

“Prior to this study Sebastian asked me, ‘Why do you guys always inject the body of the muscle?’ ” Dr. Green said. “‘If you inject the origin of the muscle on bone, you could more effectively wipe out the entire muscle’s movement. You’re going to get a better result at a lower dose, so let’s study this.’”

The injection technique involves targeting the midline level of the connecting line between left and right medial canthal ligaments with a 90-degree injection angle with bone contact, as well as the medial and inferior margin of eyebrows with a 45-degree injection angle in relation to midline with frontal bone contact. These three points are located inferior to the traditional (on-label) glabellar frown line injections used to treat the frontalis and the brow depressors.

The researchers used the 5-point glabellar line severity scale to evaluate the time of effect onset and the injection-related outcome 120 days after the treatment in 27 men and 78 women. They found that the onset of the neuromodulator effect occurred in an average of 3.5 days, and no adverse events such as eyebrow ptosis, upper eyelid ptosis, medial eyebrow ptosis, and lateral frontalis hyperactivity occurred during the study period.

“If you inject the origin of these muscles, you can get a brow lift with this technique by avoiding frontalis altogether,” Dr. Green said. “The caveat is, it’s so great at lifting the brows that if you treat the forehead, you may create a midline horizontal ‘shelf’ like I’ve never seen before, where the eyebrows elevate into an immobile superior frontalis.”

To avoid this when treating the forehead as well, he’s learned to split the dose of neuromodulator. “If I was injecting 5 units in the procerus before, I’ll do 2.5 units on nasal bone at the insertion of the muscle and then 2.5 units higher up in the traditional midline procerus injection site,” Dr. Green said.

“Same with the corrugators,” he continued. “Then, remember to inject more superficially in the lateral part, the tail of the corrugators, because the tail of the corrugators is inserting into the undersurface of the dermis. That’s why you see that skin puckering in the lateral brows when people frown. You’re pretty safe to chase that laterally if the brow’s already flat as in men, but I caution you [not] to do that in women, because you may flatten the brow.”

Dr. Green said that he is aware of two cases of lid ptosis from the 3-point technique, one of which happened to him.

“When you’re on the bone with your thumb you can feel that liquid traveling along the bone,” he said. “It can travel all the way to the midline pupil where the levator palpebrae superioris muscle is. I now don’t come in contact with bone with my corrugator origin injections, but rather float the needle a couple of millimeters off bone (in muscle) to hopefully prevent that from happening. Alternatively, some people will compress the brow along frontal bone lateral to that corrugator injection site while they’re injecting to prevent backflow of the neuromodulator.”

Dr. Green reported having received research funding and/or consulting fees from many device and pharmaceutical companies.

Among Hispanic/Latinx patients with alopecia areata, the mean age at diagnosis was 33 years, 24% had concomitant atopy, and 18% had one or more coexisting autoimmune conditions, most commonly rheumatoid arthritis.

Those are among key findings from a retrospective analysis of Hispanic/Latinx patients at the University of California, Irvine (UCI) by Natasha Mesinkovska, MD, PhD, of UCI’s department of dermatology, and her coauthors. The findings were published online in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology.

A recent study examined the epidemiology of alopecia areata (AA) in Black patients, wrote Dr. Mesinkovska and coauthors Celine Phong, a UCI medical student, and Amy J. McMichael, MD, professor of dermatology at Wake Forest University, Winston-Salem, N.C. “A similar unmet need exists to describe the characteristics of AA in Hispanic/Latinx (H/L) patients, the prevalent majority in California,” they added.

Drawing from chart reviews, ICD codes, and documented physical exams, they retrospectively identified 197 Hispanic/Latinx patients diagnosed with AA at UCI between 2015 and 2022, including alopecia totalis and alopecia universalis.

Nearly two-thirds of patients with alopecia were female (63%), and their mean age at diagnosis was 33 years. Most patients (79%) presented with patchy pattern AA, 13% had diffuse pattern AA, and only 12% had eyebrow, eyelash, or beard involvement. The most common comorbidity in patients overall was atopy (24%), including allergic rhinitis (12%), asthma (10%), and/or atopic dermatitis (7%).

The authors found that 18% of patients had one or more coexisting autoimmune conditions, most commonly rheumatoid arthritis (9%) and thyroid disease (6%). No patients had celiac disease, myasthenia gravis, or inflammatory bowel disease, but 43% had another dermatologic condition.

In other findings, 22% of patients had vitamin D deficiency, 20% had hyperlipidemia, 18% had obesity, 16% had gastroesophageal reflux disease, and 12% had anemia. At the same time, depression, anxiety, or sleep disorders were identified in 14% of patients.

“Interestingly, the most common autoimmune comorbidity in H/L was rheumatoid arthritis, compared to thyroid disease in Black patients and overall AA patients,” the authors wrote. “This finding may be a reflection of a larger trend, as rheumatoid arthritis in the H/L population has been on the rise.”

The authors acknowledged certain limitations of the study including its small sample size and lack of a control group, and reported having no financial disclosures.

Among Hispanic/Latinx patients with alopecia areata, the mean age at diagnosis was 33 years, 24% had concomitant atopy, and 18% had one or more coexisting autoimmune conditions, most commonly rheumatoid arthritis.

Those are among key findings from a retrospective analysis of Hispanic/Latinx patients at the University of California, Irvine (UCI) by Natasha Mesinkovska, MD, PhD, of UCI’s department of dermatology, and her coauthors. The findings were published online in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology.

A recent study examined the epidemiology of alopecia areata (AA) in Black patients, wrote Dr. Mesinkovska and coauthors Celine Phong, a UCI medical student, and Amy J. McMichael, MD, professor of dermatology at Wake Forest University, Winston-Salem, N.C. “A similar unmet need exists to describe the characteristics of AA in Hispanic/Latinx (H/L) patients, the prevalent majority in California,” they added.

Drawing from chart reviews, ICD codes, and documented physical exams, they retrospectively identified 197 Hispanic/Latinx patients diagnosed with AA at UCI between 2015 and 2022, including alopecia totalis and alopecia universalis.

Nearly two-thirds of patients with alopecia were female (63%), and their mean age at diagnosis was 33 years. Most patients (79%) presented with patchy pattern AA, 13% had diffuse pattern AA, and only 12% had eyebrow, eyelash, or beard involvement. The most common comorbidity in patients overall was atopy (24%), including allergic rhinitis (12%), asthma (10%), and/or atopic dermatitis (7%).

The authors found that 18% of patients had one or more coexisting autoimmune conditions, most commonly rheumatoid arthritis (9%) and thyroid disease (6%). No patients had celiac disease, myasthenia gravis, or inflammatory bowel disease, but 43% had another dermatologic condition.

In other findings, 22% of patients had vitamin D deficiency, 20% had hyperlipidemia, 18% had obesity, 16% had gastroesophageal reflux disease, and 12% had anemia. At the same time, depression, anxiety, or sleep disorders were identified in 14% of patients.

“Interestingly, the most common autoimmune comorbidity in H/L was rheumatoid arthritis, compared to thyroid disease in Black patients and overall AA patients,” the authors wrote. “This finding may be a reflection of a larger trend, as rheumatoid arthritis in the H/L population has been on the rise.”

The authors acknowledged certain limitations of the study including its small sample size and lack of a control group, and reported having no financial disclosures.

Among Hispanic/Latinx patients with alopecia areata, the mean age at diagnosis was 33 years, 24% had concomitant atopy, and 18% had one or more coexisting autoimmune conditions, most commonly rheumatoid arthritis.

Those are among key findings from a retrospective analysis of Hispanic/Latinx patients at the University of California, Irvine (UCI) by Natasha Mesinkovska, MD, PhD, of UCI’s department of dermatology, and her coauthors. The findings were published online in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology.

A recent study examined the epidemiology of alopecia areata (AA) in Black patients, wrote Dr. Mesinkovska and coauthors Celine Phong, a UCI medical student, and Amy J. McMichael, MD, professor of dermatology at Wake Forest University, Winston-Salem, N.C. “A similar unmet need exists to describe the characteristics of AA in Hispanic/Latinx (H/L) patients, the prevalent majority in California,” they added.

Drawing from chart reviews, ICD codes, and documented physical exams, they retrospectively identified 197 Hispanic/Latinx patients diagnosed with AA at UCI between 2015 and 2022, including alopecia totalis and alopecia universalis.

Nearly two-thirds of patients with alopecia were female (63%), and their mean age at diagnosis was 33 years. Most patients (79%) presented with patchy pattern AA, 13% had diffuse pattern AA, and only 12% had eyebrow, eyelash, or beard involvement. The most common comorbidity in patients overall was atopy (24%), including allergic rhinitis (12%), asthma (10%), and/or atopic dermatitis (7%).

The authors found that 18% of patients had one or more coexisting autoimmune conditions, most commonly rheumatoid arthritis (9%) and thyroid disease (6%). No patients had celiac disease, myasthenia gravis, or inflammatory bowel disease, but 43% had another dermatologic condition.

In other findings, 22% of patients had vitamin D deficiency, 20% had hyperlipidemia, 18% had obesity, 16% had gastroesophageal reflux disease, and 12% had anemia. At the same time, depression, anxiety, or sleep disorders were identified in 14% of patients.

“Interestingly, the most common autoimmune comorbidity in H/L was rheumatoid arthritis, compared to thyroid disease in Black patients and overall AA patients,” the authors wrote. “This finding may be a reflection of a larger trend, as rheumatoid arthritis in the H/L population has been on the rise.”

The authors acknowledged certain limitations of the study including its small sample size and lack of a control group, and reported having no financial disclosures.

SAN DIEGO – When Omar A. Ibrahimi, MD, PhD, opened his own cosmetic dermatology practice in Stamford, Conn., in 2012, he sensed that he had his work cut out for him.

“I was a fellowship-trained Mohs surgeon who wanted to do aesthetics,” Dr. Ibrahimi, medical director of the Connecticut Skin Institute, recalled during the annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “I was in a geographic area that was new to me. I didn’t know any referring doctors, but I started to network and tried to grow my practice.”

Someone once told him that the “three As” of being a medical specialist are “Available, Affable, and Ability,” so he applied that principle as he began to cultivate relationships with physicians in his geographic area. “I told my referring doctors, ‘If you’re kind enough to send me Mohs cases, I’ll help you out if there’s something you don’t like doing, whether it’s a nail biopsy or treating male genital warts,’” he said. “You want to make it easy for doctors to refer to you, but you also want to make their lives easier.”

Dr. Ibrahimi, who is also on the board of directors for the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery and the American Society for Laser Medicine and Surgery, offered nine other recommendations for building and growing a cosmetic dermatology practice. They include:

Know yourself. Do what you love to do, not what you feel like you should do. “Whatever you’re doing in your practice, it should be something that you’re passionate about and excited about,” he said. “I do a mix of Mohs surgery and procedural aesthetic dermatology. Most of my practice is shaped toward energy-based devices and laser procedures. Pick the things that you enjoy doing and try to deliver good results.”

Know your patients. When dermatologists who plan to open their own practice ask Dr. Ibrahimi what kind of laser they should buy, he typically responds by asking them to consider what procedures their patients are asking for. “Depending on where you are geographically and the economic profile of the community in which you practice, it can be a different answer,” Dr. Ibrahimi said. “If you practice in the Northeast and do a lot of medical dermatology, it might mean getting a vascular laser to treat rosacea. If you’re in Southern California, treating pigment might be a bigger concern than treating rosacea.” The annual ASDS Survey on Dermatologic Procedures provides a snapshot of trends and can be useful for decision-making, he said.

Know your practice. “Make sure you are capable of entering the aesthetics field,” he advised. “You cannot have a practice that runs like the DMV, with people waiting 30 to 40 minutes to be seen.” Proper training of staff is also key and representatives from device and injectable companies can provide advice and support. As for marketing, some dermatologists hire a public relations agency, but Dr. Ibrahimi finds that the best source of his referrals is word of mouth. “If I do a good job taking care of patients, they will send their friends and family over to me, but social media is also important,” he said. Taking quality before-and-after photos, and obtaining consent from patients to use them online in educational posts is a good approach, he noted.

Know your market. When Dr. Ibrahimi first opened his practice, offering laser hair removal was not a priority because so many other dermatologists and medical spas in his area were already providing it. With time, though, he added laser hair removal to his menu of treatment offerings because “I knew that if my patients weren’t getting that service from me, they would be getting it from somewhere else,” he said. “Initially it wasn’t important for me, but as my practice matured, I wanted to make sure that I was comprehensive.”

Start cautiously. Think safety first. “I tell people that starting a cosmetic practice is like baseball: don’t try to hit home runs,” Dr. Ibrahimi said. “Just aim for base hits and keep your patients happy. Make sure you deliver safe, good results.” This means knowing everything possible about the devices used in the office, because if the use of a laser is delegated to a staff member and a problem arises, “you have to know everything about how that device works so that you can troubleshoot,” he said. “A lot of problems that arise are from lack of intimacy with your device.”

Seek knowledge. Attend courses in cosmetic dermatology and read literature from journals like Dermatologic Surgery and Lasers in Surgery and Medicine, he advised. “People will see the success, but they won’t know how much hard work it takes to get there,” he said. “You have to develop your reputation to develop the kind of practice that you want.”

Understand the business of aesthetics. Most energy devices carry a steep price tag, and leasing or financing devices come with a monthly payment, he said. “Make sure that what you’re bringing in on that device is going to be sufficient to cover the monthly payment. With something like tissue microcoring, you don’t have to use that five times a day to cover that lease payment. But if you have a vascular laser, you probably need to be treating more than a couple patients per day to make that lease payment. If you can recover the amount the device costs in about a year, that’s going to be a good investment. Many devices come with consumables, so you have to remember that.”

Don’t be afraid to be unique/change directions. Becoming an early adopter of new technologies and procedures can make someone stand out. “Other providers feel more comfortable waiting to allow more data to come out about a new technology before they make a purchase,” he said. “But if you’re established and have a busy practice, that’s an opportunity that can draw people in.”

Have patience and realistic expectations. It’s smart to offer a variety of services, he said, such as medical or surgical dermatology in addition to cosmetic dermatology. “That’s going to help you through any kind of economic downturn,” he said. “Success depends on a lot of factors going right. Make sure you set short- and long-term goals.”

Dr. Ibrahimi disclosed that he is a member of the Advisory Board for Accure Acne, AbbVie, Cutera, Lutronic, Blueberry Therapeutics, Cytrellis, and Quthero. He also holds stock in many device and pharmaceutical companies.

SAN DIEGO – When Omar A. Ibrahimi, MD, PhD, opened his own cosmetic dermatology practice in Stamford, Conn., in 2012, he sensed that he had his work cut out for him.

“I was a fellowship-trained Mohs surgeon who wanted to do aesthetics,” Dr. Ibrahimi, medical director of the Connecticut Skin Institute, recalled during the annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “I was in a geographic area that was new to me. I didn’t know any referring doctors, but I started to network and tried to grow my practice.”

Someone once told him that the “three As” of being a medical specialist are “Available, Affable, and Ability,” so he applied that principle as he began to cultivate relationships with physicians in his geographic area. “I told my referring doctors, ‘If you’re kind enough to send me Mohs cases, I’ll help you out if there’s something you don’t like doing, whether it’s a nail biopsy or treating male genital warts,’” he said. “You want to make it easy for doctors to refer to you, but you also want to make their lives easier.”

Dr. Ibrahimi, who is also on the board of directors for the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery and the American Society for Laser Medicine and Surgery, offered nine other recommendations for building and growing a cosmetic dermatology practice. They include:

Know yourself. Do what you love to do, not what you feel like you should do. “Whatever you’re doing in your practice, it should be something that you’re passionate about and excited about,” he said. “I do a mix of Mohs surgery and procedural aesthetic dermatology. Most of my practice is shaped toward energy-based devices and laser procedures. Pick the things that you enjoy doing and try to deliver good results.”

Know your patients. When dermatologists who plan to open their own practice ask Dr. Ibrahimi what kind of laser they should buy, he typically responds by asking them to consider what procedures their patients are asking for. “Depending on where you are geographically and the economic profile of the community in which you practice, it can be a different answer,” Dr. Ibrahimi said. “If you practice in the Northeast and do a lot of medical dermatology, it might mean getting a vascular laser to treat rosacea. If you’re in Southern California, treating pigment might be a bigger concern than treating rosacea.” The annual ASDS Survey on Dermatologic Procedures provides a snapshot of trends and can be useful for decision-making, he said.

Know your practice. “Make sure you are capable of entering the aesthetics field,” he advised. “You cannot have a practice that runs like the DMV, with people waiting 30 to 40 minutes to be seen.” Proper training of staff is also key and representatives from device and injectable companies can provide advice and support. As for marketing, some dermatologists hire a public relations agency, but Dr. Ibrahimi finds that the best source of his referrals is word of mouth. “If I do a good job taking care of patients, they will send their friends and family over to me, but social media is also important,” he said. Taking quality before-and-after photos, and obtaining consent from patients to use them online in educational posts is a good approach, he noted.

Know your market. When Dr. Ibrahimi first opened his practice, offering laser hair removal was not a priority because so many other dermatologists and medical spas in his area were already providing it. With time, though, he added laser hair removal to his menu of treatment offerings because “I knew that if my patients weren’t getting that service from me, they would be getting it from somewhere else,” he said. “Initially it wasn’t important for me, but as my practice matured, I wanted to make sure that I was comprehensive.”

Start cautiously. Think safety first. “I tell people that starting a cosmetic practice is like baseball: don’t try to hit home runs,” Dr. Ibrahimi said. “Just aim for base hits and keep your patients happy. Make sure you deliver safe, good results.” This means knowing everything possible about the devices used in the office, because if the use of a laser is delegated to a staff member and a problem arises, “you have to know everything about how that device works so that you can troubleshoot,” he said. “A lot of problems that arise are from lack of intimacy with your device.”

Seek knowledge. Attend courses in cosmetic dermatology and read literature from journals like Dermatologic Surgery and Lasers in Surgery and Medicine, he advised. “People will see the success, but they won’t know how much hard work it takes to get there,” he said. “You have to develop your reputation to develop the kind of practice that you want.”

Understand the business of aesthetics. Most energy devices carry a steep price tag, and leasing or financing devices come with a monthly payment, he said. “Make sure that what you’re bringing in on that device is going to be sufficient to cover the monthly payment. With something like tissue microcoring, you don’t have to use that five times a day to cover that lease payment. But if you have a vascular laser, you probably need to be treating more than a couple patients per day to make that lease payment. If you can recover the amount the device costs in about a year, that’s going to be a good investment. Many devices come with consumables, so you have to remember that.”

Don’t be afraid to be unique/change directions. Becoming an early adopter of new technologies and procedures can make someone stand out. “Other providers feel more comfortable waiting to allow more data to come out about a new technology before they make a purchase,” he said. “But if you’re established and have a busy practice, that’s an opportunity that can draw people in.”

Have patience and realistic expectations. It’s smart to offer a variety of services, he said, such as medical or surgical dermatology in addition to cosmetic dermatology. “That’s going to help you through any kind of economic downturn,” he said. “Success depends on a lot of factors going right. Make sure you set short- and long-term goals.”

Dr. Ibrahimi disclosed that he is a member of the Advisory Board for Accure Acne, AbbVie, Cutera, Lutronic, Blueberry Therapeutics, Cytrellis, and Quthero. He also holds stock in many device and pharmaceutical companies.

SAN DIEGO – When Omar A. Ibrahimi, MD, PhD, opened his own cosmetic dermatology practice in Stamford, Conn., in 2012, he sensed that he had his work cut out for him.

“I was a fellowship-trained Mohs surgeon who wanted to do aesthetics,” Dr. Ibrahimi, medical director of the Connecticut Skin Institute, recalled during the annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “I was in a geographic area that was new to me. I didn’t know any referring doctors, but I started to network and tried to grow my practice.”

Someone once told him that the “three As” of being a medical specialist are “Available, Affable, and Ability,” so he applied that principle as he began to cultivate relationships with physicians in his geographic area. “I told my referring doctors, ‘If you’re kind enough to send me Mohs cases, I’ll help you out if there’s something you don’t like doing, whether it’s a nail biopsy or treating male genital warts,’” he said. “You want to make it easy for doctors to refer to you, but you also want to make their lives easier.”

Dr. Ibrahimi, who is also on the board of directors for the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery and the American Society for Laser Medicine and Surgery, offered nine other recommendations for building and growing a cosmetic dermatology practice. They include:

Know yourself. Do what you love to do, not what you feel like you should do. “Whatever you’re doing in your practice, it should be something that you’re passionate about and excited about,” he said. “I do a mix of Mohs surgery and procedural aesthetic dermatology. Most of my practice is shaped toward energy-based devices and laser procedures. Pick the things that you enjoy doing and try to deliver good results.”

Know your patients. When dermatologists who plan to open their own practice ask Dr. Ibrahimi what kind of laser they should buy, he typically responds by asking them to consider what procedures their patients are asking for. “Depending on where you are geographically and the economic profile of the community in which you practice, it can be a different answer,” Dr. Ibrahimi said. “If you practice in the Northeast and do a lot of medical dermatology, it might mean getting a vascular laser to treat rosacea. If you’re in Southern California, treating pigment might be a bigger concern than treating rosacea.” The annual ASDS Survey on Dermatologic Procedures provides a snapshot of trends and can be useful for decision-making, he said.

Know your practice. “Make sure you are capable of entering the aesthetics field,” he advised. “You cannot have a practice that runs like the DMV, with people waiting 30 to 40 minutes to be seen.” Proper training of staff is also key and representatives from device and injectable companies can provide advice and support. As for marketing, some dermatologists hire a public relations agency, but Dr. Ibrahimi finds that the best source of his referrals is word of mouth. “If I do a good job taking care of patients, they will send their friends and family over to me, but social media is also important,” he said. Taking quality before-and-after photos, and obtaining consent from patients to use them online in educational posts is a good approach, he noted.

Know your market. When Dr. Ibrahimi first opened his practice, offering laser hair removal was not a priority because so many other dermatologists and medical spas in his area were already providing it. With time, though, he added laser hair removal to his menu of treatment offerings because “I knew that if my patients weren’t getting that service from me, they would be getting it from somewhere else,” he said. “Initially it wasn’t important for me, but as my practice matured, I wanted to make sure that I was comprehensive.”

Start cautiously. Think safety first. “I tell people that starting a cosmetic practice is like baseball: don’t try to hit home runs,” Dr. Ibrahimi said. “Just aim for base hits and keep your patients happy. Make sure you deliver safe, good results.” This means knowing everything possible about the devices used in the office, because if the use of a laser is delegated to a staff member and a problem arises, “you have to know everything about how that device works so that you can troubleshoot,” he said. “A lot of problems that arise are from lack of intimacy with your device.”

Seek knowledge. Attend courses in cosmetic dermatology and read literature from journals like Dermatologic Surgery and Lasers in Surgery and Medicine, he advised. “People will see the success, but they won’t know how much hard work it takes to get there,” he said. “You have to develop your reputation to develop the kind of practice that you want.”

Understand the business of aesthetics. Most energy devices carry a steep price tag, and leasing or financing devices come with a monthly payment, he said. “Make sure that what you’re bringing in on that device is going to be sufficient to cover the monthly payment. With something like tissue microcoring, you don’t have to use that five times a day to cover that lease payment. But if you have a vascular laser, you probably need to be treating more than a couple patients per day to make that lease payment. If you can recover the amount the device costs in about a year, that’s going to be a good investment. Many devices come with consumables, so you have to remember that.”

Don’t be afraid to be unique/change directions. Becoming an early adopter of new technologies and procedures can make someone stand out. “Other providers feel more comfortable waiting to allow more data to come out about a new technology before they make a purchase,” he said. “But if you’re established and have a busy practice, that’s an opportunity that can draw people in.”

Have patience and realistic expectations. It’s smart to offer a variety of services, he said, such as medical or surgical dermatology in addition to cosmetic dermatology. “That’s going to help you through any kind of economic downturn,” he said. “Success depends on a lot of factors going right. Make sure you set short- and long-term goals.”

Dr. Ibrahimi disclosed that he is a member of the Advisory Board for Accure Acne, AbbVie, Cutera, Lutronic, Blueberry Therapeutics, Cytrellis, and Quthero. He also holds stock in many device and pharmaceutical companies.

SAN DIEGO – Proper patient selection and setting realistic expectations are the keys to enhancing results with fractional radiofrequency (RF) microneedling devices, according to Catherine M. DiGiorgio, MD.

Most core fractional RF microneedling indications – acne scars, rhytides, skin tightening – require multiple treatments, Dr. DiGiorgio, a laser and cosmetic dermatologist who practices in Boston, said at the annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “That’s an important expectation to set for your patients,” she said. “You also want to select depth and density parameters based on pathophysiology of the condition being treated, and combination treatments always provide the best results. So, whether you’re treating someone for acne scars or rhytides, you want to treat them for their erythema or their dermatoheliosis. The same goes for skin tightening procedures.”

Many nonpolar and bipolar devices are available for use, most of which feature adjustable depths and energies. Tips can be insulated or noninsulated. Generally, the insulated tips are safer for darker skin types because the energy is not delivered to the epidermis. However, the Sylfirm X device from Benev has a noninsulated tip but is safe for all skin types because the energy is delivered from the tip of a conically shaped needle and moves proximally but never reaches the epidermis, said Dr. DiGiorgio. Continuous wave mode is used for tightening and wrinkles while pulsed mode is used for pigment and vascular lesions.

Treatment with most fractional RF microneedling devices is painful so topical anesthesia is required. Dr. DiGiorgio typically uses topical 23% lidocaine and 7% tetracaine. The downtime varies depending on which device is being used. For anesthesia prior to aggressive fractional microneedle RF treatments such as with the Profound RF for skin tightening, Dr. DiGiorgio typically uses a Mesoram needle with a cocktail of 30 ccs of 2% lidocaine with epinephrine, 15 ccs of bicarbonate, and 5 ccs of saline. “More aggressive RF procedures can result in bruising for 7 to 8 days,” she said. “It can be covered with makeup. Wearing masks during the COVID-19 pandemic have also helped patients cover the bruising.”

In her clinical experience, the ideal patient for skin tightening with fractional RF microneedling has mild to moderate skin laxity that does not require surgical intervention. “Nonsurgical treatments provide nonsurgical results,” she said. “If a patient comes in holding their skin back and there is a lot of laxity, this is not going to be the right treatment for that person.”

Dr. DiGiorgio offers fractional RF microneedling in the context of a full-face rejuvenation. She begins by addressing volume loss and dynamic rhytides with injectables prior to skin tightening devices such as fractional RF microneedling or ultrasound-based tightening devices such as Sofwave or Ulthera (also referred to as Ultherapy). “You can add an ablative fractional to target deeper rhytides or pigment-targeting laser to address their dermatoheliosis, which will enhance their results,” she said. “Finally, you can follow up with a thread lift two weeks after the microneedle RF to achieve greater skin tightening. If the thread lift is performed before the microneedle RF, you want to wait about 2 months because the microneedle RF can damage the thread.”

Despite the limited efficacy for tissue tightening with fractional RF microneedling, “it’s a good alternative to lasers, especially for darker skin types,” she said. “Combination treatments will always enhance your results.”

Dr. DiGiorgio disclosed that she is a member of the advisory board for Quthero. She is also a consultant for Revelle and has received equipment from Acclaro.

SAN DIEGO – Proper patient selection and setting realistic expectations are the keys to enhancing results with fractional radiofrequency (RF) microneedling devices, according to Catherine M. DiGiorgio, MD.

Most core fractional RF microneedling indications – acne scars, rhytides, skin tightening – require multiple treatments, Dr. DiGiorgio, a laser and cosmetic dermatologist who practices in Boston, said at the annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “That’s an important expectation to set for your patients,” she said. “You also want to select depth and density parameters based on pathophysiology of the condition being treated, and combination treatments always provide the best results. So, whether you’re treating someone for acne scars or rhytides, you want to treat them for their erythema or their dermatoheliosis. The same goes for skin tightening procedures.”

Many nonpolar and bipolar devices are available for use, most of which feature adjustable depths and energies. Tips can be insulated or noninsulated. Generally, the insulated tips are safer for darker skin types because the energy is not delivered to the epidermis. However, the Sylfirm X device from Benev has a noninsulated tip but is safe for all skin types because the energy is delivered from the tip of a conically shaped needle and moves proximally but never reaches the epidermis, said Dr. DiGiorgio. Continuous wave mode is used for tightening and wrinkles while pulsed mode is used for pigment and vascular lesions.

Treatment with most fractional RF microneedling devices is painful so topical anesthesia is required. Dr. DiGiorgio typically uses topical 23% lidocaine and 7% tetracaine. The downtime varies depending on which device is being used. For anesthesia prior to aggressive fractional microneedle RF treatments such as with the Profound RF for skin tightening, Dr. DiGiorgio typically uses a Mesoram needle with a cocktail of 30 ccs of 2% lidocaine with epinephrine, 15 ccs of bicarbonate, and 5 ccs of saline. “More aggressive RF procedures can result in bruising for 7 to 8 days,” she said. “It can be covered with makeup. Wearing masks during the COVID-19 pandemic have also helped patients cover the bruising.”

In her clinical experience, the ideal patient for skin tightening with fractional RF microneedling has mild to moderate skin laxity that does not require surgical intervention. “Nonsurgical treatments provide nonsurgical results,” she said. “If a patient comes in holding their skin back and there is a lot of laxity, this is not going to be the right treatment for that person.”

Dr. DiGiorgio offers fractional RF microneedling in the context of a full-face rejuvenation. She begins by addressing volume loss and dynamic rhytides with injectables prior to skin tightening devices such as fractional RF microneedling or ultrasound-based tightening devices such as Sofwave or Ulthera (also referred to as Ultherapy). “You can add an ablative fractional to target deeper rhytides or pigment-targeting laser to address their dermatoheliosis, which will enhance their results,” she said. “Finally, you can follow up with a thread lift two weeks after the microneedle RF to achieve greater skin tightening. If the thread lift is performed before the microneedle RF, you want to wait about 2 months because the microneedle RF can damage the thread.”

Despite the limited efficacy for tissue tightening with fractional RF microneedling, “it’s a good alternative to lasers, especially for darker skin types,” she said. “Combination treatments will always enhance your results.”

Dr. DiGiorgio disclosed that she is a member of the advisory board for Quthero. She is also a consultant for Revelle and has received equipment from Acclaro.

SAN DIEGO – Proper patient selection and setting realistic expectations are the keys to enhancing results with fractional radiofrequency (RF) microneedling devices, according to Catherine M. DiGiorgio, MD.

Most core fractional RF microneedling indications – acne scars, rhytides, skin tightening – require multiple treatments, Dr. DiGiorgio, a laser and cosmetic dermatologist who practices in Boston, said at the annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “That’s an important expectation to set for your patients,” she said. “You also want to select depth and density parameters based on pathophysiology of the condition being treated, and combination treatments always provide the best results. So, whether you’re treating someone for acne scars or rhytides, you want to treat them for their erythema or their dermatoheliosis. The same goes for skin tightening procedures.”

Many nonpolar and bipolar devices are available for use, most of which feature adjustable depths and energies. Tips can be insulated or noninsulated. Generally, the insulated tips are safer for darker skin types because the energy is not delivered to the epidermis. However, the Sylfirm X device from Benev has a noninsulated tip but is safe for all skin types because the energy is delivered from the tip of a conically shaped needle and moves proximally but never reaches the epidermis, said Dr. DiGiorgio. Continuous wave mode is used for tightening and wrinkles while pulsed mode is used for pigment and vascular lesions.

Treatment with most fractional RF microneedling devices is painful so topical anesthesia is required. Dr. DiGiorgio typically uses topical 23% lidocaine and 7% tetracaine. The downtime varies depending on which device is being used. For anesthesia prior to aggressive fractional microneedle RF treatments such as with the Profound RF for skin tightening, Dr. DiGiorgio typically uses a Mesoram needle with a cocktail of 30 ccs of 2% lidocaine with epinephrine, 15 ccs of bicarbonate, and 5 ccs of saline. “More aggressive RF procedures can result in bruising for 7 to 8 days,” she said. “It can be covered with makeup. Wearing masks during the COVID-19 pandemic have also helped patients cover the bruising.”

In her clinical experience, the ideal patient for skin tightening with fractional RF microneedling has mild to moderate skin laxity that does not require surgical intervention. “Nonsurgical treatments provide nonsurgical results,” she said. “If a patient comes in holding their skin back and there is a lot of laxity, this is not going to be the right treatment for that person.”

Dr. DiGiorgio offers fractional RF microneedling in the context of a full-face rejuvenation. She begins by addressing volume loss and dynamic rhytides with injectables prior to skin tightening devices such as fractional RF microneedling or ultrasound-based tightening devices such as Sofwave or Ulthera (also referred to as Ultherapy). “You can add an ablative fractional to target deeper rhytides or pigment-targeting laser to address their dermatoheliosis, which will enhance their results,” she said. “Finally, you can follow up with a thread lift two weeks after the microneedle RF to achieve greater skin tightening. If the thread lift is performed before the microneedle RF, you want to wait about 2 months because the microneedle RF can damage the thread.”

Despite the limited efficacy for tissue tightening with fractional RF microneedling, “it’s a good alternative to lasers, especially for darker skin types,” she said. “Combination treatments will always enhance your results.”

Dr. DiGiorgio disclosed that she is a member of the advisory board for Quthero. She is also a consultant for Revelle and has received equipment from Acclaro.

SAN DIEGO – In the fall of 2014, Sandra Lee, MD, posted a blackhead extraction video on her Instagram account, a decision that changed her professional life forever.

“I got these crazy comments,” Dr. Lee, a dermatologist who practices in Upland, Calif., recalled at the annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “Either people loved it – they were obsessed – or they thought it was the most disgusting thing they’d ever seen. It created a strong reaction. Either way, they shared it with their friends.”

Soon after she started posting videos, she discovered Reddit, which has a subreddit for “popping addicts” and the “pop-curious.” “I thought, ‘These videos are so amateur. They’re culling them from the Internet. Or, they’re pinning down their son at the beach and trying to squeeze out a blackhead,’ ” Dr. Lee said. “I thought, ‘I could give them pristine videos,’ ” and that is exactly what she did.

Turning to YouTube as a platform, she began to post videos showing everything from Mohs surgery and Botox injections to keloid removals and ear lobe repair surgeries. With this, Dr. Lee formed her alter ego, “Dr. Pimple Popper,” and became a YouTube sensation, building 7.53 million subscribers over the course of a few years. She also grew 16.2 million subscribers on TikTok, 4.5 million followers on Instagram, 2.9 million on Facebook, and 136,700 on Twitter.

About 80% of her followers are women who range between 18 and 40 years of age. “I have over 5 billion views on YouTube, which is mind-blowing,” she said. “That tells you something about the content. It’s not something people watch once. They watch it over and over again.” These include videos compiled as a “bedtime story.”

Dr. Lee offered the following pearls of advice for dermatologists looking to build and maintain a presence on social media:

Use it to showcase what makes you unique. Post what you do on social media, and people will find you. “It’s an opportunity to freely advertise,” Dr. Lee said. “I’m super nitpicky about posting good before-and-after photos. You can also show off how nice and warm and inviting your office is. People come to see me because they know my voice. They know how I interact with patients. That is reason for them enough to travel from far away to see me. It doesn’t mean that I’m the person who is best at treating whatever condition they have.”

Make it interesting. “I say that the special sauce is entertainment and education,” said Dr. Lee, who is in the fifth season of “Dr. Pimple Popper,” her TV show that airs internationally. “The only way you can draw people in is by entertaining them, catching their interest. But I try to trick them into educating them. Five-year-old kids come up to me now and know what a lipoma is. I’m proud of that.”

Be authentic. You may be using social media to promote your dermatology practice, but it’s important for followers to get a glimpse of your nonwork personality as well. Maybe that means posting a photo of yourself at a concert, baseball game, or dinner with family and friends. “Show that you have a sense of humor, because you want them to like you,” Dr. Lee added. “That’s why someone follows you, because they want to be your friend. They enjoy spending time with you on the Internet. It’s like gambling. In order to win, you have to play. So, you have to post.”

Avoid hot-button topics. “I don’t post about my kids, and I try to choose sponsorships wisely,” she said. “I do very few branding deals. Be careful about your brand and how you present yourself. Present yourself in an authentic way, but not in a way that hurts yourself or the dermatology profession.”

Be mindful of the time investment. “It’s like running a whole other business,” Dr. Lee said. “There are also trolls out there, so you have to have thick skin.”

Don’t sweat it if you don’t want to engage. “Not everybody wants to do it, and not everybody will be good at it, but that’s okay,” she said.

Dr. Lee reported having no relevant disclosures.

SAN DIEGO – In the fall of 2014, Sandra Lee, MD, posted a blackhead extraction video on her Instagram account, a decision that changed her professional life forever.

“I got these crazy comments,” Dr. Lee, a dermatologist who practices in Upland, Calif., recalled at the annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “Either people loved it – they were obsessed – or they thought it was the most disgusting thing they’d ever seen. It created a strong reaction. Either way, they shared it with their friends.”

Soon after she started posting videos, she discovered Reddit, which has a subreddit for “popping addicts” and the “pop-curious.” “I thought, ‘These videos are so amateur. They’re culling them from the Internet. Or, they’re pinning down their son at the beach and trying to squeeze out a blackhead,’ ” Dr. Lee said. “I thought, ‘I could give them pristine videos,’ ” and that is exactly what she did.

Turning to YouTube as a platform, she began to post videos showing everything from Mohs surgery and Botox injections to keloid removals and ear lobe repair surgeries. With this, Dr. Lee formed her alter ego, “Dr. Pimple Popper,” and became a YouTube sensation, building 7.53 million subscribers over the course of a few years. She also grew 16.2 million subscribers on TikTok, 4.5 million followers on Instagram, 2.9 million on Facebook, and 136,700 on Twitter.

About 80% of her followers are women who range between 18 and 40 years of age. “I have over 5 billion views on YouTube, which is mind-blowing,” she said. “That tells you something about the content. It’s not something people watch once. They watch it over and over again.” These include videos compiled as a “bedtime story.”

Dr. Lee offered the following pearls of advice for dermatologists looking to build and maintain a presence on social media:

Use it to showcase what makes you unique. Post what you do on social media, and people will find you. “It’s an opportunity to freely advertise,” Dr. Lee said. “I’m super nitpicky about posting good before-and-after photos. You can also show off how nice and warm and inviting your office is. People come to see me because they know my voice. They know how I interact with patients. That is reason for them enough to travel from far away to see me. It doesn’t mean that I’m the person who is best at treating whatever condition they have.”

Make it interesting. “I say that the special sauce is entertainment and education,” said Dr. Lee, who is in the fifth season of “Dr. Pimple Popper,” her TV show that airs internationally. “The only way you can draw people in is by entertaining them, catching their interest. But I try to trick them into educating them. Five-year-old kids come up to me now and know what a lipoma is. I’m proud of that.”

Be authentic. You may be using social media to promote your dermatology practice, but it’s important for followers to get a glimpse of your nonwork personality as well. Maybe that means posting a photo of yourself at a concert, baseball game, or dinner with family and friends. “Show that you have a sense of humor, because you want them to like you,” Dr. Lee added. “That’s why someone follows you, because they want to be your friend. They enjoy spending time with you on the Internet. It’s like gambling. In order to win, you have to play. So, you have to post.”

Avoid hot-button topics. “I don’t post about my kids, and I try to choose sponsorships wisely,” she said. “I do very few branding deals. Be careful about your brand and how you present yourself. Present yourself in an authentic way, but not in a way that hurts yourself or the dermatology profession.”

Be mindful of the time investment. “It’s like running a whole other business,” Dr. Lee said. “There are also trolls out there, so you have to have thick skin.”

Don’t sweat it if you don’t want to engage. “Not everybody wants to do it, and not everybody will be good at it, but that’s okay,” she said.

Dr. Lee reported having no relevant disclosures.

SAN DIEGO – In the fall of 2014, Sandra Lee, MD, posted a blackhead extraction video on her Instagram account, a decision that changed her professional life forever.

“I got these crazy comments,” Dr. Lee, a dermatologist who practices in Upland, Calif., recalled at the annual Masters of Aesthetics Symposium. “Either people loved it – they were obsessed – or they thought it was the most disgusting thing they’d ever seen. It created a strong reaction. Either way, they shared it with their friends.”

Soon after she started posting videos, she discovered Reddit, which has a subreddit for “popping addicts” and the “pop-curious.” “I thought, ‘These videos are so amateur. They’re culling them from the Internet. Or, they’re pinning down their son at the beach and trying to squeeze out a blackhead,’ ” Dr. Lee said. “I thought, ‘I could give them pristine videos,’ ” and that is exactly what she did.

Turning to YouTube as a platform, she began to post videos showing everything from Mohs surgery and Botox injections to keloid removals and ear lobe repair surgeries. With this, Dr. Lee formed her alter ego, “Dr. Pimple Popper,” and became a YouTube sensation, building 7.53 million subscribers over the course of a few years. She also grew 16.2 million subscribers on TikTok, 4.5 million followers on Instagram, 2.9 million on Facebook, and 136,700 on Twitter.

About 80% of her followers are women who range between 18 and 40 years of age. “I have over 5 billion views on YouTube, which is mind-blowing,” she said. “That tells you something about the content. It’s not something people watch once. They watch it over and over again.” These include videos compiled as a “bedtime story.”

Dr. Lee offered the following pearls of advice for dermatologists looking to build and maintain a presence on social media:

Use it to showcase what makes you unique. Post what you do on social media, and people will find you. “It’s an opportunity to freely advertise,” Dr. Lee said. “I’m super nitpicky about posting good before-and-after photos. You can also show off how nice and warm and inviting your office is. People come to see me because they know my voice. They know how I interact with patients. That is reason for them enough to travel from far away to see me. It doesn’t mean that I’m the person who is best at treating whatever condition they have.”

Make it interesting. “I say that the special sauce is entertainment and education,” said Dr. Lee, who is in the fifth season of “Dr. Pimple Popper,” her TV show that airs internationally. “The only way you can draw people in is by entertaining them, catching their interest. But I try to trick them into educating them. Five-year-old kids come up to me now and know what a lipoma is. I’m proud of that.”

Be authentic. You may be using social media to promote your dermatology practice, but it’s important for followers to get a glimpse of your nonwork personality as well. Maybe that means posting a photo of yourself at a concert, baseball game, or dinner with family and friends. “Show that you have a sense of humor, because you want them to like you,” Dr. Lee added. “That’s why someone follows you, because they want to be your friend. They enjoy spending time with you on the Internet. It’s like gambling. In order to win, you have to play. So, you have to post.”

Avoid hot-button topics. “I don’t post about my kids, and I try to choose sponsorships wisely,” she said. “I do very few branding deals. Be careful about your brand and how you present yourself. Present yourself in an authentic way, but not in a way that hurts yourself or the dermatology profession.”

Be mindful of the time investment. “It’s like running a whole other business,” Dr. Lee said. “There are also trolls out there, so you have to have thick skin.”

Don’t sweat it if you don’t want to engage. “Not everybody wants to do it, and not everybody will be good at it, but that’s okay,” she said.

Dr. Lee reported having no relevant disclosures.

At least once a week, dermatologist Kelly Stankiewicz, MD, meets with patients who believe that fillers can help them achieve any lip shape. Some reach for their smartphones to show her images and say: “I want my lips to look just like this.”

Those images may help Dr. Stankiewicz understand patient preferences in terms of lip size and proportion, but she points out that shape is unique to each person. “I tell them: ‘All we can do is enhance that lip shape with filler. We can’t give you somebody else’s lip shape with an injection of filler.’ ”

During a virtual course on laser and aesthetic skin therapy, she and Omar A. Ibrahimi, MD, PhD, dispelled this and other false dogmas that they hear from some clinicians who practice aesthetic medicine and the patients who see them.

Wait 1 year before treating traumatic and surgical scars with vascular and fractional CO2 lasers. “I don’t think this is controversial anymore, because there is a boatload of data, which has shown that early treatment can prevent hypertrophic scarring and promote scar maturation,” said Dr. Stankiewicz, who practices dermatology in Park City, Utah. “Histology has also shown more organized dermal collagen from early treatment. Of course, there will be situations where you may want to hold off, like doing an ablative fractional [laser treatment] over the scar of a joint replacement ... where you may risk infection.” In her clinic, she routinely treats scars on the same day as suture removal, “as long as the healing looks appropriate.”

Dr. Ibrahimi, a dermatologist and medical director of the Connecticut Skin Institute, Stamford, also jumps on treating scars early. For a patient with postacne erythema, for example, he will use a pulsed-dye laser, which he believes will prevent scars from becoming atrophic.

Used equipment is a better investment than new equipment. While purchasing used laser and light devices can save money, especially when starting out, be wary of potential pitfalls, including the fact that many devices have disposable tips. “If your laser isn’t certified or you’re not the authorized owner of the device, you won’t be able to buy the disposables,” Dr. Stankiewicz noted. “So, before you buy a used device, ensure that you can buy them.”

Also, consider the cost of service if the device breaks down, she advised. Some lasers are complicated to service and others have codes set by the manufacturer so that only contracted engineers can work on them. “Otherwise, third-party engineers and service providers have to figure out how to crack the code to get into the machine,” she said. “If you’re in the situation where you have to ask the manufacturer to service your device, you have to pay a lot of money to recertify your device. Then you’ve lost all the savings you thought you made by buying a used machine.” She prefers to negotiate a good deal on a new device. “Often, a very good deal on a new device can rival the offer of a used one.”

Dr. Ibrahimi recalled buying a used fractional laser that came with a 30-day guarantee, but it stopped working around day 45. “I didn’t have much recourse there,” he said during the meeting, which was sponsored by Harvard Medical School, Massachusetts General Hospital, and the Wellman Center for Photomedicine. “You can’t go back to the company [for repair] unless you pay a recertification fee.”

Avoid exercise after Botox treatment. Although inverted yoga poses and lying down should be avoided for several hours after receiving Botox, there are no other limits to other forms of exercise post treatment, Dr. Stankiewicz said. If she suspects that a patient will develop bruising on one or more injection sites, she treats the areas with a laser. “Doing this on the same day as Botox treatment doesn’t always stop or treat bruising, many times it does.”

Another myth she hears is that it is not safe to fly in an airplane after Botox treatment. “That recommendation comes from the fact that the atmospheric pressure is lower in an airplane, so we worry about the risk of Botox spread,” Dr. Stankiewicz said. “But I practice at 7,000 feet above sea level, which is the same atmospheric pressure as that in an airplane,” she added, noting Botox is administered throughout the day in her practice and she does not see increased complications or worry about spread.

Clinician self-treatment is okay. In the opinion of Dr. Stankiewicz, aesthetic clinicians who treat themselves “have a fool for a patient.” She added: “Although no one is going to blame you and may not even know if you give yourself a little Botox touch-up at home, glorifying self-treatment on social media must stop. It’s dangerous and it can be ineffective.”

Self-treatment can also impair judgment and the objectivity of cosmetic therapies. “Also, when you’re pointing a laser at your own face and posting it on social media, it gives viewers the impression that this is not a serious medical treatment when it really is,” she emphasized. In addition, “when you treat yourself, you lose the ability to see the proper clinical endpoint. You also lose the ability to see the angle and the appropriate position for injection to avoid intervascular occlusion.”

Neither Dr. Stankiewicz nor Dr. Ibrahimi reported having relevant financial disclosures.

At least once a week, dermatologist Kelly Stankiewicz, MD, meets with patients who believe that fillers can help them achieve any lip shape. Some reach for their smartphones to show her images and say: “I want my lips to look just like this.”

Those images may help Dr. Stankiewicz understand patient preferences in terms of lip size and proportion, but she points out that shape is unique to each person. “I tell them: ‘All we can do is enhance that lip shape with filler. We can’t give you somebody else’s lip shape with an injection of filler.’ ”

During a virtual course on laser and aesthetic skin therapy, she and Omar A. Ibrahimi, MD, PhD, dispelled this and other false dogmas that they hear from some clinicians who practice aesthetic medicine and the patients who see them.

Wait 1 year before treating traumatic and surgical scars with vascular and fractional CO2 lasers. “I don’t think this is controversial anymore, because there is a boatload of data, which has shown that early treatment can prevent hypertrophic scarring and promote scar maturation,” said Dr. Stankiewicz, who practices dermatology in Park City, Utah. “Histology has also shown more organized dermal collagen from early treatment. Of course, there will be situations where you may want to hold off, like doing an ablative fractional [laser treatment] over the scar of a joint replacement ... where you may risk infection.” In her clinic, she routinely treats scars on the same day as suture removal, “as long as the healing looks appropriate.”

Dr. Ibrahimi, a dermatologist and medical director of the Connecticut Skin Institute, Stamford, also jumps on treating scars early. For a patient with postacne erythema, for example, he will use a pulsed-dye laser, which he believes will prevent scars from becoming atrophic.

Used equipment is a better investment than new equipment. While purchasing used laser and light devices can save money, especially when starting out, be wary of potential pitfalls, including the fact that many devices have disposable tips. “If your laser isn’t certified or you’re not the authorized owner of the device, you won’t be able to buy the disposables,” Dr. Stankiewicz noted. “So, before you buy a used device, ensure that you can buy them.”

Also, consider the cost of service if the device breaks down, she advised. Some lasers are complicated to service and others have codes set by the manufacturer so that only contracted engineers can work on them. “Otherwise, third-party engineers and service providers have to figure out how to crack the code to get into the machine,” she said. “If you’re in the situation where you have to ask the manufacturer to service your device, you have to pay a lot of money to recertify your device. Then you’ve lost all the savings you thought you made by buying a used machine.” She prefers to negotiate a good deal on a new device. “Often, a very good deal on a new device can rival the offer of a used one.”

Dr. Ibrahimi recalled buying a used fractional laser that came with a 30-day guarantee, but it stopped working around day 45. “I didn’t have much recourse there,” he said during the meeting, which was sponsored by Harvard Medical School, Massachusetts General Hospital, and the Wellman Center for Photomedicine. “You can’t go back to the company [for repair] unless you pay a recertification fee.”

Avoid exercise after Botox treatment. Although inverted yoga poses and lying down should be avoided for several hours after receiving Botox, there are no other limits to other forms of exercise post treatment, Dr. Stankiewicz said. If she suspects that a patient will develop bruising on one or more injection sites, she treats the areas with a laser. “Doing this on the same day as Botox treatment doesn’t always stop or treat bruising, many times it does.”

Another myth she hears is that it is not safe to fly in an airplane after Botox treatment. “That recommendation comes from the fact that the atmospheric pressure is lower in an airplane, so we worry about the risk of Botox spread,” Dr. Stankiewicz said. “But I practice at 7,000 feet above sea level, which is the same atmospheric pressure as that in an airplane,” she added, noting Botox is administered throughout the day in her practice and she does not see increased complications or worry about spread.

Clinician self-treatment is okay. In the opinion of Dr. Stankiewicz, aesthetic clinicians who treat themselves “have a fool for a patient.” She added: “Although no one is going to blame you and may not even know if you give yourself a little Botox touch-up at home, glorifying self-treatment on social media must stop. It’s dangerous and it can be ineffective.”

Self-treatment can also impair judgment and the objectivity of cosmetic therapies. “Also, when you’re pointing a laser at your own face and posting it on social media, it gives viewers the impression that this is not a serious medical treatment when it really is,” she emphasized. In addition, “when you treat yourself, you lose the ability to see the proper clinical endpoint. You also lose the ability to see the angle and the appropriate position for injection to avoid intervascular occlusion.”

Neither Dr. Stankiewicz nor Dr. Ibrahimi reported having relevant financial disclosures.

At least once a week, dermatologist Kelly Stankiewicz, MD, meets with patients who believe that fillers can help them achieve any lip shape. Some reach for their smartphones to show her images and say: “I want my lips to look just like this.”

Those images may help Dr. Stankiewicz understand patient preferences in terms of lip size and proportion, but she points out that shape is unique to each person. “I tell them: ‘All we can do is enhance that lip shape with filler. We can’t give you somebody else’s lip shape with an injection of filler.’ ”

During a virtual course on laser and aesthetic skin therapy, she and Omar A. Ibrahimi, MD, PhD, dispelled this and other false dogmas that they hear from some clinicians who practice aesthetic medicine and the patients who see them.

Wait 1 year before treating traumatic and surgical scars with vascular and fractional CO2 lasers. “I don’t think this is controversial anymore, because there is a boatload of data, which has shown that early treatment can prevent hypertrophic scarring and promote scar maturation,” said Dr. Stankiewicz, who practices dermatology in Park City, Utah. “Histology has also shown more organized dermal collagen from early treatment. Of course, there will be situations where you may want to hold off, like doing an ablative fractional [laser treatment] over the scar of a joint replacement ... where you may risk infection.” In her clinic, she routinely treats scars on the same day as suture removal, “as long as the healing looks appropriate.”

Dr. Ibrahimi, a dermatologist and medical director of the Connecticut Skin Institute, Stamford, also jumps on treating scars early. For a patient with postacne erythema, for example, he will use a pulsed-dye laser, which he believes will prevent scars from becoming atrophic.

Used equipment is a better investment than new equipment. While purchasing used laser and light devices can save money, especially when starting out, be wary of potential pitfalls, including the fact that many devices have disposable tips. “If your laser isn’t certified or you’re not the authorized owner of the device, you won’t be able to buy the disposables,” Dr. Stankiewicz noted. “So, before you buy a used device, ensure that you can buy them.”

Also, consider the cost of service if the device breaks down, she advised. Some lasers are complicated to service and others have codes set by the manufacturer so that only contracted engineers can work on them. “Otherwise, third-party engineers and service providers have to figure out how to crack the code to get into the machine,” she said. “If you’re in the situation where you have to ask the manufacturer to service your device, you have to pay a lot of money to recertify your device. Then you’ve lost all the savings you thought you made by buying a used machine.” She prefers to negotiate a good deal on a new device. “Often, a very good deal on a new device can rival the offer of a used one.”

Dr. Ibrahimi recalled buying a used fractional laser that came with a 30-day guarantee, but it stopped working around day 45. “I didn’t have much recourse there,” he said during the meeting, which was sponsored by Harvard Medical School, Massachusetts General Hospital, and the Wellman Center for Photomedicine. “You can’t go back to the company [for repair] unless you pay a recertification fee.”

Avoid exercise after Botox treatment. Although inverted yoga poses and lying down should be avoided for several hours after receiving Botox, there are no other limits to other forms of exercise post treatment, Dr. Stankiewicz said. If she suspects that a patient will develop bruising on one or more injection sites, she treats the areas with a laser. “Doing this on the same day as Botox treatment doesn’t always stop or treat bruising, many times it does.”

Another myth she hears is that it is not safe to fly in an airplane after Botox treatment. “That recommendation comes from the fact that the atmospheric pressure is lower in an airplane, so we worry about the risk of Botox spread,” Dr. Stankiewicz said. “But I practice at 7,000 feet above sea level, which is the same atmospheric pressure as that in an airplane,” she added, noting Botox is administered throughout the day in her practice and she does not see increased complications or worry about spread.

Clinician self-treatment is okay. In the opinion of Dr. Stankiewicz, aesthetic clinicians who treat themselves “have a fool for a patient.” She added: “Although no one is going to blame you and may not even know if you give yourself a little Botox touch-up at home, glorifying self-treatment on social media must stop. It’s dangerous and it can be ineffective.”

Self-treatment can also impair judgment and the objectivity of cosmetic therapies. “Also, when you’re pointing a laser at your own face and posting it on social media, it gives viewers the impression that this is not a serious medical treatment when it really is,” she emphasized. In addition, “when you treat yourself, you lose the ability to see the proper clinical endpoint. You also lose the ability to see the angle and the appropriate position for injection to avoid intervascular occlusion.”

Neither Dr. Stankiewicz nor Dr. Ibrahimi reported having relevant financial disclosures.